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93 NA ATX 3000gt DOHC
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I don’t know what that toggle switch and wire was added to control. BUT I see two major problems with that poor hookup.

1) Toggle switch not properly mounted, so that if the wire terminals on back contacts and grounded metal surface it will set that wire on fire every time!

2) No fuse in that added poor hookup, if what ever it’s hooks to pulls more amps than that wire can handle it will do the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don’t know what that toggle switch and wire was added to control. BUT I see two major problems with that poor hookup.

1) Toggle switch not properly mounted, so that if the wire terminals on back contacts and grounded metal surface it will set that wire on fire every time!

2) No fuse in that added poor hookup, if what ever it’s hooks to pulls more amps than that wire can handle it will do the same thing.
Yeah it’s been a bad deal for sure. The whole time I have owned this car I have had to pop the hood to flip the toggle switch to start the fuel pump, then I gotta close the hood and start my car. I get tired of having to pop the hood to flip the toggle switch off and on. But this fire changed everything. I’m going to install a new oem battery cable harness that I bought a couple years back. It matches what is already in the car so I am hopeful I can get the car somewhat back to normal. I’m not gonna cut corners like the last guy did… I already have the old harness out mostly. I was in the middle of doing that earlier when I ran out of daylight. All thats left is to get the positive off of the starter. I’m hoping to finish up Wednesday or Thursday. Hopefully I can get some help then, because I am gonna have to figure out something with this fuel pump that he had rigged up. 🫣
 

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Wow... lol

Looks like it was for the resistor or lack there of

-sent from my Galaxy S22 Ultra

Also, if there was ever an appropriate meme, then here it is:

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I don’t know what that toggle switch and wire was added to control. BUT I see two major problems with that poor hookup.

1) Toggle switch not properly mounted, so that if the wire terminals on back contacts and grounded metal surface it will set that wire on fire every time!

2) No fuse in that added poor hookup, if what ever it’s hooks to pulls more amps than that wire can handle it will do the same thing.
I’m at the rigged up fuel pump part now. I left the two red wires that are plugged into the black connector that disappears into the wire harness. I re-stripped the longer red wire and I’m getting ready to crimp into the toggle switch. But you said something about a fuse so I’m going to stop right now. I was wondering if you could look at my layout so you can tell me if I’m on the right track.?
 

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I’m at the rigged up fuel pump part now. I left the two red wires that are plugged into the black connector that disappears into the wire harness. I re-stripped the longer red wire and I’m getting ready to crimp into the toggle switch. But you said something about a fuse so I’m going to stop right now. I was wondering if you could look at my layout so you can tell me if I’m on the right track.?
No your still not on right track. I need to know what you hope to do with that added battery positive wire and toggle switch?

That connector where the two pins are jumped is where the fuel pump relay is normally installed. By removing the relay and jumping the correct two socket pins it will bypass the low speed resistor and run fuel pump in high speed all the time when ECU turns it on. That’s a common process many do to bypass factory low speed pump. (See below link).

That additional wire and toggle switch is simply removing all ECU control of fuel pump and requiring you to open hood to turn on fuel pump and then again opening the hood to turn off fuel pump, which if you forget to turn it off it will run the battery dead or eventually burn the pump up from constantly running forever. Not forgetting to mention it's dangerous as hell :eek:! Got to ask why would you want to do that or anybody else for that matter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No your still not on right track. I need to know what you hope to do with that added battery positive wire and toggle switch?

That connector where the two pins are jumped is where the fuel pump relay is normally installed. By removing the relay and jumping the correct two socket pins it will bypass the low speed resistor and run fuel pump in high speed all the time when ECU turns it on. That’s a common process many do to bypass factory low speed pump. (See below link).

That additional wire and toggle switch is simply removing all ECU control of fuel pump and requiring you to open hood to turn on fuel pump and then again opening the hood to turn off fuel pump, which if you forget to turn it off it will run the battery dead or eventually burn the pump up from constantly running forever. Not forgetting to mention it's dangerous as hell :eek:! Got to ask why would you want to do that or anybody else for that matter?
The last guy was lazy I suppose. I personally would rather have that fuel pump relay you talked about and plug it in where it’s suppose to go but I don’t have one..I’m all for stock/oem with this vr4 btw; so any advice on how I can undo what PO’s did will help me big time . I am committed to this project and I’m off work until next Tuesday so I think I have the time to get it done by then; and I am motivated like no one else, I have to keep busy and working on my car is about all I want to do anymore these days. 😃
 

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The last guy was lazy I suppose. I personally would rather have that fuel pump relay you talked about and plug it in where it’s suppose to go but I don’t have one..I’m all for stock/oem with this vr4 btw; so any advice on how I can undo what PO’s did will help me big time . I am committed to this project and I’m off work until next Tuesday so I think I have the time to get it done by then; and I am motivated like no one else, I have to keep busy and working on my car is about all I want to do anymore these days. 😃
To put it back stock, all you’ll have to do is remove all that crazy crap (throw it in trash can), get proper pump relay and plug it into connector. If the guy removed the resistor, that would also have to be reinstalled.

Or at least remove the toggle switch and wire down to connector and leave the jumper in connector, which appears to be in correct pins as best I can tell from pictures. That would return the on/off control of pump to ECU and restore fuse protection of pump to 15 amp #12 fuse under dash, but pump wouldn’t have low speed operation as discussed in above link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Quite apart from the janky pump feed bypass, all that unshielded live wiring is looking for a place to short out and set your car on fire.
This is my fear, the PO’s cut corners so either they were idiots or they didn’t have money to buy parts or the money to pay mechanics to do the job properly. I am not interested in this bypass trick the previous owner did, so I think someone else earlier said it was okay for me to pull the red wires out of that connector; but I’m still trying to figure out what part goes there once I unplug those 2-3 red wires. I wish people would stop doing stuff like this with their cars!!!🤬
 

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................... I am not interested in this bypass trick the previous owner did, so I think someone else earlier said it was okay for me to pull the red wires out of that connector; but I’m still trying to figure out what part goes there once I unplug those 2-3 red wires. ...............
I explained that above in my #12 post (quote) get proper pump relay and plug it into connector. If the guy removed the resistor, that would also have to be reinstalled. (unquote). The original fuel pump relay will plug into connector and if every other thing is correct, the pump will work as it should. See below picture of relay unplugged from the connector, from link I supplied in my #10 post.


Not sure why the guy added a positive wire to jumper at pin 5 socket of connector, because with relay plugged in and if the 15 amp #12 fuse in box under dash isn't blown, when key turned to start position power will go to pins 3 & 5 and then on to fuel fuel pump from pins 2 or 4 depending on which ECU is directing it to by controlling the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I explained that above in my #12 post (quote) get proper pump relay and plug it into connector. If the guy removed the resistor, that would also have to be reinstalled. (unquote). The original fuel pump relay will plug into connector and if every other thing is correct, the pump will work as it should. See below picture of relay unplugged from the connector, from link I supplied in my #10 post.
View attachment 306078

Not sure why the guy added a positive wire to jumper at pin 5 socket of connector, because with relay plugged in and if the 15 amp #12 fuse in box under dash isn't blown, when key turned to start position power will go to pins 3 & 5 and then on to fuel fuel pump from pins 2 or 4 depending on which ECU is directing it to by controlling the relay.
Thank you for helping me out. I think I found a fuel relay.
 

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Thank you for helping me out. I think I found a fuel relay.
Yeah that’s it, you’ll have to remove the rubber protective cover to get to release clips on both sides to unplug the relay. Then just plug it into your connector and reinstall the protective rubber cover. Might as well remount it with bolt as you can see in that photo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah that’s it, you’ll have to remove the rubber protective cover to get to release clips on both sides to unplug the relay. Then just plug it into your connector and reinstall the protective rubber cover. Might as well remount it with bolt as you can see in that photo.
Okay I did that already. I accidentally broke one of the white clips clean off but the other one only cracked one on side. it was kinda tough to disconnect but was a cinch to put into my car.. it seated so tightly into my car’s connector that i don’t think there’s any worry about the one missing white clip. And I did pull the rubber sheathing back down as well. Oh and I did bolt it down properly as well and in the correct spot too. I think you mentioned something about a resistor though? Idk if I’m ready to go or not but I’m leaning towards I am… Im also just leaving the hardware store now with some odds and ends; so when I get home I’ll give it a go! But yeh sounds like all I gotta do when I get home is hook up my battery cables to the terminals. Also there is this thin white wire with a thick black rubbery coating that I do believe hooks into the positive terminal as well.
 

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Okay I did that already. I accidentally broke one of the white clips clean off but the other one only cracked one on side. it was kinda tough to disconnect but was a cinch to put into my car.. it seated so tightly into my car’s connector that i don’t think there’s any worry about the one missing white clip. And I did pull the rubber sheathing back down as well. Oh and I did bolt it down properly as well and in the correct spot too. I think you mentioned something about a resistor though? Idk if I’m ready to go or not but I’m leaning towards I am… Im also just leaving the hardware store now with some odds and ends; so when I get home I’ll give it a go! But yeh sounds like all I gotta do when I get home is hook up my battery cables to the terminals. Also there is this thin white wire with a thick black rubbery coating that I do believe hooks into the positive terminal as well.
Yeah it’ll be alright with one clip. The resistor is mounted in general area of relay, it’s location is pointed out in same link in my post #10. Below is picture of resistor itself. Your description of thin white wire with rubbery coating sounds like wire that supplies power to large relay box behind the headlight. If so yes it must be hooked up to battery positive connector, that supplies power to that fuse/relay box for entire car for components to work. But I wouldn’t consider it a thin wire; it should be a fairly heavy wire, just smaller than the positive wire to the starter solenoid.

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yeah it’ll be alright with one clip. The resistor is mounted in general area of relay, it’s location is pointed out in same link in my post #10. Below is picture of resistor itself. Your description of thin white wire with rubbery coating sounds like wire that supplies power to large relay box behind the headlight. If so yes it must be hooked up to battery positive connector, that supplies power to that fuse/relay box for entire car for components to work. But I wouldn’t consider it a thin wire; it should be a fairly heavy wire, just smaller than the positive wire to the starter solenoid.

View attachment 306080
Okay! Yeah if that’s the resistor then mine is still installed; however someone robbed the bracket. I can take it off my parts car but I’ll eventually need to buy a new one anyways. The PO just has it tucked away in a small area under the fuse box.
 
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