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Discussion Starter #1
So I've read it (the ASWC) doesn't work with our cars, but only one or 2 posts and not by anyone who has actually tried it.

Has anyone actually tried the ASWC personally to confirm that it doesn't work with the 3/S? Usually if something works great, people just enjoy the fact that it works and aren't likely to get online to tell the world about it. If it doesn't, then they are more likely to tell about it, but like I said I've only read posts from people who havent actually tried it.
 

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Yep. Because of good reviews saying it worked good with our cars, I bought the "jack" on impulse not knowing what "jack" meant. The "ps" reviews seem to suck saying that it's slow, but I at least know it works.
Hmm interesting, last pioneer I did with it worked just fine. Its was the z130bt with the pac swi ps on a hummer h2 and worked right on. Pressed vol up on the wheel volume went up on the hu just fine as so did the other features.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
In full disclosure, I first bought the jack not knowing that it doesn't work with pioneer units, only knowing that it does work with the 3/S's and aftermarket units. Then days afterward learning that the jack wouldnt work, I bought the ASWC knowing only that it works even better...lol but again, not with pioneer.

I haven't installed either. Both pending local sale unused. LOL, most impulsive and unresearched thing I have done in a long time. Just plain stupid... :moon:

So you say the ps was fast responding? What about with the 3/s?
 

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Never installed one in a 3S but on the cars I have installed they have all worked just fine. The only one that I dislike somewhat its the pac swiX its the "universal" unit, it takes longer to program. To me slow would be a second and its was way faster than that for sure.
 

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If the oem controls are not slow to begin with I dont see how it would be any slower after adding the swi. Haven't really seen a noticeable difference in response time after installing them compared to the oem.
 

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Skeptic
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My experience:

Crutchfield says the Axxess ASWC does not work with our cars. Is that true? Why? Reviews suggest that the PAC SWI-JACK is harder to install, has to be programmed and is slow to respond, so I'd rather go with the ASWC.
Last week I worked with Metra to confirm that the Axxess AWSC is not compatible with the serial control channel used in our cars and yesterday ordered a PAC SWI-JACK ($36 shipped!) after reading the above testimonials.
The PAC SWI-JACK works perfectly with my JVC KW-AVX640. Installation was a breeze, programming was straightforward, there is no perceptible delay (the HU responds immediately when a button is pressed), and holding the volume up or down button does work (I do have to wait ~0.5 seconds before pressing a different button).
And as you now know:

Don't you need the PAC SWI-PS?

PS = Pioneer / Sony
JACK = JVC / Alpine / Clarion / Kenwood
 

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1992 Dodge Stealth TT
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ASWC will not work for our cars yet. Someone needs to test the steering wheel control wires with a multimeter and send the values to Axxess interface. They will respond back within a couple days with a update allowing you to program it to your stealth/3000gt. I'm a local dealer i called axxess about it for my own personal car. Just havn't finished my motor work yet to test the wires. Maybe in a few months.
 

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Skeptic
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Someone needs to test the steering wheel control wires with a multimeter and send the values to Axxess interface.
Been there, done that. It bounces around 50Kohms when any of the buttons are pressed.
No, that will not be enough. We will have to get into it if it is truly data. I can only help you if it is resistive.

Matt Calderon
Lead Tech
Metra Electronics
1-800-253-TECH
...which it isn't.
Well a short description followed by some pictures. I place a 1000 Ohm resistor between power (blue wire) and the yellow wire from the steering control. I then put my scope on the yellow wire and connected the ground lead to the chassis. Based on that information, we are dealing with a NPN transistor output. Each button outputs a unique pulse train. I will try and make a binary representation of each one.

Mute: 1111101011111
FM/AM: 1111010111111
Vol -: 1111011101111
Vol +: 111111101111
Auto M: 11110110101111
M Cal: 1111110101111

Each pulse has a duration (frequency) of about 1.2 milliseconds. It is pulled low for approximately .4 milliseconds and high for about .8 milliseconds. Each button is represented by 13 - 15 pulses. Once the last pulse occurs, the signal stays high for 13-16 mlliseconds and then the signal repeats. The signal repeats every 29 milliseconds (regardless of which button).

Two buttons are oddballs. The Vol + button has 13 recognizable pulses and the Auto M button has 15 recognizable pulses. To me this would imply that all buttons output a code of 15 pulses (or more) but there are leading or trailing pulses that cannot be seen by the scope because they are off.
 

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I'm bringing this thread back from the dead.
I'm installing the JACK now. My 1992 factory steering wheel control harness has 2 yellow wires, one with a white stripe down it and one just yellow.
Anybody know which wire does what?
 

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I'm bringing this thread back from the dead.
I'm installing the JACK now. My 1992 factory steering wheel control harness has 2 yellow wires, one with a white stripe down it and one just yellow.
Anybody know which wire does what?

Must be talking about the radio one, There's a mute connection there and the steering wheel control input.

I'm using the mute connection on an 06 infinity radio it's connected to the radar detector.
 

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Here are some detailed scope shots including what an Android stereo is looking for. Also, I decoded the incoming bits from the steering wheel. Each button sends 10 bits of data.

I hope this helps somebody.

My son and I created a VERY tiny board running a Microchip PIC16 controller to decode the data and pass the information to an Android head unit. Each button can do a short press and long press (which works well for all but vol up/dn).
 

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