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3SX FTL
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3,988 Posts
No "official" walkthrough that I know of, but the job is fairly easy. Unbolt the a-arms from the subframe, undo the axle nuts, pull out the axles. On the driver's side you have the jackshaft bracket (2 bolts holding it to the block that are awkward to reach but easy enough to find if you just follow the halfshaft in towards the trans). On the passenger side you'll need to pop the axle out of the trans because it has a c-clip. Use a wedge of some kind and a hammer instead of a prybar. I find that prying takes forever and damages the case. Hammer and wedge are quicker and less violent. Just don't blast on it too hard.

Clint
 

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hellbent in a dodge Viper
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8,699 Posts
here ya go

wheels (cotter pins, break axles nuts now since you have brakes)
calipers(hang em up).
rotors
axle nuts off

downpipe(worst part of the job).
mark your aligment on your struts(top bolts) and loosen them
remove the bolt that holds the abs to the dust shield so you dont pull the wire

two bolts that hold the brace up top above the downpipe(center axle support)
undo support from the block so axle is free
undo the strut bolts and wiggle the axle out, may need to tap it out.
wiggle while you turn the hubs down and watch your ball joint covers, may pop off or if old may rip.

pop the axles out of the tranny, i use a huge screwdriver at the tranny
 

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Ready for summer again!!!
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334 Posts
Also, when you are removing the passenger side axle, if it does not want to come out, try rotating it a bit and trying again. I had to do this maybe 5 or 6 times when I removed my tranny, but it helped alot with getting the axel out.
 

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resident evil
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17,080 Posts
Why are you guys removing so much stuff to get the axles out? I just unbolt the castle nut bolts, take the strut bolts and the ABS and brake line support clamps off. I turn the wheel all the way out, tilt the whole hub down and push the axles out from the hub with a long screwdriver. Then I use a pry bar to pop the side with the c clips out of the intermediate bearing on the drivers side and tranny on the passenger side. I have replaced my axles twice and never took the a-arms off and never took the down pipe off, just the brakes and strut bottom...........but then I had to get the car re-aligned.
Also, there was no bolts holding the inside of the CVs into the bracket, just c-clips

Sam
 

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'96 VR4
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3,290 Posts
Argh. OK, I am having no luck breaking loose the axle nut. Lots of rust. I blocked up a wheel stud and when I try to turn nut it compresses the spring so that I can't get a ton of torque on it. I've been PB Blastering it for two days, and last night tried a propane torch which I guess doesn't come near to getting it hot enough. Will MAP gas do it? Or do I need oxy-acetylene?

Paul T
 

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Ninja Performance
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42,336 Posts
Why are you guys removing so much stuff to get the axles out? I just unbolt the castle nut bolts, take the strut bolts and the ABS and brake line support clamps off. I turn the wheel all the way out, tilt the whole hub down and push the axles out from the hub with a long screwdriver. Then I use a pry bar to pop the side with the c clips out of the intermediate bearing on the drivers side and tranny on the passenger side. I have replaced my axles twice and never took the a-arms off and never took the down pipe off, just the brakes and strut bottom...........but then I had to get the car re-aligned.
Also, there was no bolts holding the inside of the CVs into the bracket, just c-clips

Sam
i am with you, i have never dropped the a arm.
 

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Registered
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380 Posts
Argh. OK, I am having no luck breaking loose the axle nut. Lots of rust. I blocked up a wheel stud and when I try to turn nut it compresses the spring so that I can't get a ton of torque on it. I've been PB Blastering it for two days, and last night tried a propane torch which I guess doesn't come near to getting it hot enough. Will MAP gas do it? Or do I need oxy-acetylene?

Paul T
MAPP gas is should work, you may want to use oxygen also. Personally I've never had to heat the axle nut up, just put the car in gear and use a 2' breaker bar, Or use a impact gun.
 

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Wheee! 2 wheels is fun!
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8,813 Posts
Argh. OK, I am having no luck breaking loose the axle nut. Lots of rust. I blocked up a wheel stud and when I try to turn nut it compresses the spring so that I can't get a ton of torque on it. I've been PB Blastering it for two days, and last night tried a propane torch which I guess doesn't come near to getting it hot enough. Will MAP gas do it? Or do I need oxy-acetylene?

Paul T
Hopefully you have a wheel with a large enough center to fit your socket through.

Put the car back on the ground with the wheel on and THEN try to undo the nut. If you still cant, get a long piece of pipe to "extend" your breaker bar.

If its really that stuck, yes, oxy-acetylene is the way to go for heat. Propane and mapp just dont make it.

When I put in a new clutch on my car I unbolted the lower a-arms and that left more than enough room to take the axles out of the trans. I see no reason why you couldnt use the same technique to do an axle swap after the big rusty nut removal. Best part is no screwing around with lots of other rusty bolts and no need for an alignment afterward.

-SP
 

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'96 VR4
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3,290 Posts
stfuad and speedy, thanks for the comments. It turned out that the MAPP gas alone did it (with the big nozzel on the tank). After about 5-10 min it turned just fine.

Biggest problem I think was that I had the wheel off when trying to undo the axle nut... lesson learned, next time break it loose on the ground then put it up. I couldn't get a whole lot of torque on it and didn't think to put it in gear which would have helped to.

So Speedy did you leave the rotors on when you did the clutch? I'll have to go look at the lower A-arms again... I was just in here to find out what size the rotor holes are for threading in a bolt to force them off. Altho, the rotors look like crap too so taking them off and having them resurfaced wouldn't be such a bad idea at this point since everything else is out of the way.

Thanks guys.

Hey, stfuad... just noticed your in Syracuse. Go Orange! My wife went to SU. Next time you're at the Dinosaur save me some ribs!<G>
 

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Wheee! 2 wheels is fun!
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8,813 Posts
So Speedy did you leave the rotors on when you did the clutch? I'll have to go look at the lower A-arms again... I was just in here to find out what size the rotor holes are for threading in a bolt to force them off. Altho, the rotors look like crap too so taking them off and having them resurfaced wouldn't be such a bad idea at this point since everything else is out of the way.
Of course I left them on! I never do extra work if I dont have to.

Unbolting the lower a-arms is very easy (except for rusty vehicles, requires no realigning of anything and theres more than enough room to remove axles.

8x1.25 is the size of the bolts that can help remove the rotors, but if they are crap, just pull off the calipers and mounts and use some hammer work to knock them off. Make sure your caliper pistons are OK while you have the calipers off.

-SP
 

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Registered
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57 Posts
i have to do this tomorrow, and am confused as to what the term a-arms stands for...could some one shed some light on this?i have replaced both lower control arms, but i dont know what the a-arms are...please help as i need the car early tomorrow so i have to this this done asap, and not have to get it realigned...
 
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17,897 Posts
the a-arm is the lower control arm, they are shaped like an A.
 

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<3's lapping days
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3,275 Posts
If you are removing your A-arm and downpipe you are doing WAYYY too much work. Do just like Wraith said, his method is the most straightforward simplest way. I do it that way, too.

As for the passenger side, take a 2x4 or a 1 foot long piece of wood, my dad has a 1x1" piece of wood that is PERFECT for this. Take the piece of wood and place it on the green housing of the axle. Hit the wood and the axle will come out. Works every time.
 
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