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1991 Dodge Stealth RT TT
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56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone tell me, where does the Driver Side CV Axle separate from the half shaft? Is it "A" between the black iron bracket and the silver ring, or does it separate at "B" between the silver ring and the green casing from the CV Axle? I have been trying to separate it at "B" and just tonight think I have figured out that I should have been trying to break it apart at "A". Either way I can not get the old CV axle to break free ... but maybe if someone can confirm where I should be prying I might be able to make some forward progress on this. Thanks!

 

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SDSU Alumnus
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4,436 Posts
The problem with "A" is that most people end up mangling the dust shield. The last reply/link in this thread has some suggestions from servicing the center bearing:

Driver’s side intermediate shaft <<
 

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Keep'n 'em spooled
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2,759 Posts
I created the post referenced above. If there is nothing wrong with the carrier bearing, I strongly suggest you LEAVE IT ALONE.
If the bearing is obviously bad, or you just need to remove the Cv cup in order to connect a new Cv axle assembly, I believe the best method is to put the Cv cup (green part) in a vise, with the rest of the assembly hanging down vertically.
Then use as a large a steel rod as will fit (about 1/2"-5/8" dia.) to drive the small aluminum cup through the bottom of the Cv cup and push the intermediate shaft out.
For the type of "C" clips on the ends of these shafts, they tend to come out easier if you can orient them vertically vs horizontally.

If you don't mind spending $90 on the OEM rebuild kit, you can just use a large axle separator fork like I show in my post at point "A", since the OEM kit includes the dust shield on that side that you will mangle using a separator fork.

Note: If you are not going to replace the bearing, just want to attach a new Cv axle assembly to the intermediate shaft, a method some people use is to put the intermediate axle shaft or the carrier bearing bracket in a vise and just hit the backside of the green Cv cup with a cold chisel or large drift. I don't recommend this as it puts all the strain of separating the parts on the bearing which can damage it. People have had success doing this and no problems with the bearing afterwards, so there's that. Not what I would do however.
 

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1991 Dodge Stealth RT TT
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56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks everyone for your feedback. I ended up doing a bunch of damage to the bearing seals, and the bearing itself appears to be shot... so it is now in the hands of UPS going to 3SX to see if they can get things separated and bearing replaced. I could have just bought new OEM replacements from 3SX, but I would prefer to keep the "new in box" stuff available for others who really need it. The individual shaft and support are good, its just the bearing and seals that appear to be bad. Thanks again for the feedback and suggestions.
 

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1991 Dodge Stealth RT TT
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56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@Turbo Powered I got everything apart finally, and I am starting to put it all back together ... Thanks for the information on the re-assembly. I do have one question. Just before I started to press everything together I noticed that one side (and only one side) of the OEM bearing has three hash-marks on it:

Do these signify anything ... is this "directional" in some way? The old one was covered in grease so I didn't notice it until it was already pressed out of the bracket. The repair manual doesn't say anything about it, but I figured I would check to be safe.
 

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1992 3000GT VR4
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1,192 Posts
Make sure you've replaced your outer seals on tranny just because your in there
If you haven't already done so
Preventative Maintenance
Make sure when reinstalling shafts into you tranny you do not damage these seals
With the spline ends on your mid shaft or CV axel
Other wise these seals will leak tranny fluid (y)
(Always prelude the inner ring of the seals and make sure you don't have a groove cut
putting or reinstalling removed used CV axels as some axles get grooves cut into the exact spot the seals are supposed to seal on the CV bell ends)
Remove this by hand with very fine memory cloth (sand paper)
If the groove is deeper then a millimeter or your nail catches on it the seal while scratching at it
It will not seal tightly enough until is it repaired or replaced
 

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1992 3000GT VR4
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1,192 Posts
Alot of people knock them
But I'm running Detroit CV axels
Ther shafts are about a 1/2 inch larger (beefier)
Then OEM
Also running Detroit Axel Hub bearings
Had them on the car for little over 3 years now and I've had zero issues out of them ...
Just make sure you torque your Axel nuts to 185 foot lbs... and stake or cotter pin the castle nut
Over torquing your axel nuts .... will cause damage to your hub bearings and inner races ...
Causing your wheel bearing to prematurely fail
You will get a ROARING!! Noise that will continue to get worse till the bearing fails completely....
The outer CV axel splines and the CV axel hub presses into the back side hub bearing and front spindle with studs sandwiched together holds these bearing into the races
Like taking a extra jelly peanut butter sandwich and smashing it with a sledgehammer
(Torque wrench)... before installing the wheel slide a thick enough screw driver down into the vented rotor and pin it to the brake caliper
Then torque your axel nut
Really simple
 
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