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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Pete??? Did you get your TD06/20G from Greddy yet??? are you running the 6cm or the 8cm back hausing???


Take care:)
 

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Yeah shop has them but i have been unable to pick them up since i have been working 7day weeks for the past 3 weeks and 1 more week togo :(
Yep they are the 6cm and i cant wait to get them! :D
I do know they are big since the shop guy looked at them and said, quote "dayum!" unquote :D
heheh
Now im wondering if i should polish them up and heat treat the turbine side since they are soo big hmm....
To bad i dont have a td04 for comparison shot! Once i pick them up on Nov 30th i will send pics to you and anyone else who is interested. Uggh the wait! But the overtime pays for all this crap!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks man......

You're my hero;)......i appreciate if you can take a pics and e-mail it to me,if you don't have your stock 9b's for comparison you can just use you stock manifold,put them close together for comparison;)




One question tho,why didn't you go with the 8cm back hausing??? think PitroadM gold car use the 8cm,are you scared of the lag:D....i though you have the scuba tank to back it up;)
 

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Well the main reason is my high altitude! The 8cm did not work here. I was seeing a 1 to 1 ratio for boost/exhaust pressure with the td0516g 8cm2 housing. What this did was that i would make 14psi in first 19 psi in second 25psi in third and that was all she had :(
So thats the main reason i went with the 6cm2 was that now i would see around 3 to 1 ratio for every 3 pounds of exhaust i would see 1 pound in boost hence quick spool up and i can actually see more psi in all gears. Yes i will be going back down in lag though from the huge compressor and shaft that needs to spin but again the 6cm should in theory work excellent up here in denver! Then add my scuba tank to the equation and you have one mean machine :D
Again this is all theory but coming from good sources like allied signal/turbonetics who have made some really killer turbo setups for cars! Plus cams will help a bit as well..... You must be still debating on which turbo you want huh! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
palamarap said:
Well the main reason is my high altitude! The 8cm did not work here. I was seeing a 1 to 1 ratio for boost/exhaust pressure with the td0516g 8cm2 housing. What this did was that i would make 14psi in first 19 psi in second 25psi in third and that was all she had :(
Sorry man,i don't know what you mean by that.Are you saying your car will over boost to 25psi at third even tho you didn't set it up that high??? Seems like you have issue with the external wastegate or the boost controler.....the boost controler should be able to adjust the loads inside the manifold by opening the wastegate valve no matter what gear you're on.What type of BC you're using in your car???

You must be still debating on which turbo you want huh! ;)
Yes sir......but now i'm leaning more towards the TD06L2 8cm/20G......Unless someone can make me change my mind to switch to T67/25G with 8cm back hausing.......But i wonder what rpm my turbo will kick in:D.....i don't want it to be like that one Supra with the twin T66,where it hit boost at 6k rpm:eek::D


What rpm your turbo start to hit boost with your TD05/16G 8cm back hausing???
 

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Ok on the boost it was not the controller or wastegates. What was happening was that there was not enough exhaust gasses to pass through the turbine section to efficiently spin the compressor. An 8cm2 is a big housing and with less air up here in Denver and all other sorts of stuff the car would not fully maximize those turbos. Down at sea level yes they would be perfect. What I have learned is that to properly maximize a turbo you need to see at least 2 pounds of exhaust backpressure(pressure in your manifolds) for every pound of boost. So what I found out was, that lets say my 3rd gear run I saw 25psi but yet the exhaust pressure was actually below 20 psi! Not enough to keep pushing the turbine above that 25psi. I actually could take off the boost controller and just let the car run that way with the wastegates closed. See the reversed applies like the dsms where they get boost creep because the turbine does not remove enough of that exhaust pressure so it keeps spinning the compressor more and more. :)
If I was you, I would definitely invest in the greddy kit!!! Your possibilities are unlimitless with turbo picks and sizes and the craftsman ship is top notch! Well worth the price if you ask me! And yes if your heart desires you can goto that td06-25g (t67) :D
Aint that groovy! And plus you don't have to worry about reliability issues with hybrid turbos like the gt399r that may over time self destruct from improper weight balance and other issues...
 

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GT368-SX developed Nov. 1996 original prototype set is still running.. durability? you be the judge..

GT-399-RR is not a "Mitsubishi Hybrid", and is not yet released, and NO ONE has seen the "actual" finished production piece, except myself.. please verify your information before stating incorrect/misleading information.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Brian GT PRO said:
GT368-SX developed Nov. 1996 original prototype set is still running.. durability? you be the judge..

GT-399-RR is not a "Mitsubishi Hybrid", and is not yet released, and NO ONE has seen the "actual" finished production piece, except myself.. please verify your information before stating incorrect/misleading information.

Yo Brian i'm still open for opinion on turbos.....waiting on something big and efficien thats available out there.So far the GT357 has been doing a very good job,impress a lot of peoples down here in FL;).

What RPM can you expect the turbo to kick in???


Thanks:)
 

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How wild do you want to go 99?
If your wanting a highway killer then i would go a different route away from the td04 turbine sections! Yes they are fantastic for spool up and stop light drags and so on but if your wanting top end power i would definitly choose anouther turbo! The 357's have done a wonderful job for Matt, but yet he still needs nos to grasp that 10 sec barrier. Just my $.02 :)
Cant ya tell im rooting for you to try the greddy route or alike ;)
I need some more people on my side of the fence so we can try to make this kit work! Pitroad-m has it but they are in Japan.
 

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Pete, If you are talking about Matt Monett at DR, then he is using DR650r turbos, 15-G sized turbos, to run low to mid 11s in the 1/4 miles. I think we are still waiting for any turbo larger than 15G or 17G to best these "dinky" turbos in the 1/4 mile. :) I know what you are saying about big turbos and top end. But realistically, how many opportunities are there for drag-like starts and other friendly "activity" below 130 mph and how many opportunities are there for 150+ mph shootouts (street or race track)?
 

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Like Jeff, I'm still waiting. I can afford whatever's available. If we can see some 125+ MPH 1/4 mile numbers from the bigger turbos, I will buy into the argument.

-bob
 

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Jeff Lucius said:
Pete, If you are talking about Matt Monett at DR, then he is using DR650r turbos, 15-G sized turbos, to run low to mid 11s in the 1/4 miles. I think we are still waiting for any turbo larger than 15G or 17G to best these "dinky" turbos in the 1/4 mile. :)
Matt, using DR650's with 27psi and 50hp shot of NOS = 11.009
Bee*R using HKS GT2835's with 14.7psi, about half the boost (!!!) = 11.1

Both runs had problems with either the clutch or with traction.;)

I'd like to see what Bee*R can run using 20+psi where these "big turbos" are really made for.:)
 

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I've had a thrust bearing go on one of my 368 turbos after very few miles. I caught it early due to a different problem we have been chasing:

We're also still fighting an oil draining problem with the front - apparently due to do insufficient drop in vertical height from the outlet to the oil pan connect and/or the 90 degree elbow immediately at the outlet. That has nothing to do with the turbo itself but is a problem with a first gen Steatlh. [the front turbo oil drain design - now slightly worsened by the 368 being a bit lower (vertically) still than the stock turbo.

The custom built motor mount neccessary for use with the front 368 is limiting options ....

I still like the 368 but not as much as I did ....

The front has become an extra problem I didn't need - I have now dropped about $1000 (turbo repair, replace, labor, oil drain labor) and I'm still leaking oil .....
 

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TurboTurd:
Why is Bee*R only running 14.7 psi of boost in the first place? Because of the clutch and traction problems or what?
Mark
 

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What's wrong with running 1 bar of boost?
My Low Boost is going to be set at 6 psi, and my high will be set at 10 psi..
You must not understand what airflow does... just what pressure does..
 

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96TTtrqmnstr said:
TurboTurd:
Why is Bee*R only running 14.7 psi of boost in the first place? Because of the clutch and traction problems or what?
Mark
I am guessing the reason why they don't boost pass 1 bar because it is daily driven:eek:
So the same boost they use on the drag strip and autocross track, they use on the street.;)

I don't know how practicle 30psi on TD-04's would be for daily driven performance. Sure, on the strip, you can run 10's, but if you have to turn down the boost on the street, its no longer a 10 second car.
I'd rather have a 10 second car boosting 15psi that can be driven on the street with the same boost, rather than a 10 second car boosting 30psi which i would need to turn down to drive on the street. 15psi would be more streetable and would last longer.Thats just my $0.02s;)

Bee*R's GTO also uses an ORC Twin-Disc Clutch, and uses auto-cross yokohama tires. The car has traction problems each time it drags, I dont why they don't use slicks:( They don't even have a roll cage in the car.

The car still has stock pistons and rods:eek:
 

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looks like with good engine control and tuning our stock bottom ends are strong.
 

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RacerRT:
Nothings "wrong" with running 1 bar of boost. I was just curious why they would spend the kind of money they did on the HKS turbos and not get full boost from them. Especially being so close to a 10 sec run. An easy explanation for the low boost (14.7 psi) on their car would have also been that they're still running stock internals :eek: ....I didn't know that, thats why I asked.
What turbos are you going to be running at 6 psi and 10psi? I could see doing that to avoid fuel cut, but like I said. At the track why not turn it up? I don't know what mods you have, so I can't relate to your exact situation or reasoning at this time.

TurboTurd: Like I said, the stock internals explain that question pretty much I guess ;) I defenitely agree with the lower boost setting for the street vs. track. That only makes sense. I'd still turn the boost up at the track though. If you have the timeslip and somebody wants to challenge it, then invite them to the track :D Simple as that. ;)
Later,
Mark
 
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