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Discussion Starter #1
I dont know which to go for first. I have read through tons of posts, but most just conflict with each other. I can get the exhaust for 698.00, or the boost controller for about 399-450. Some sites say to put on exhaust first, some say boost controller. Some also say a new ATR exhaust will increase horsepower 8-10, and some say it increases horsepower up to 23. Which is more acurate? Some sites say an AVC-R will increase hp up to 30 or 50, but then some say it only increases up to 18. WHY CANT THEY MAKE UP THERE MINDS? Has anyone done either one of these and know what it will produce on a 93' VR4? Which would be better on a Vr4 with only K&N air intake? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
college student...nuff said.
Low funds...I would get a gauge with the contoller.
So its exaust or controller/gauge for now.(until xmas)
 

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Naughty get a DSBC, I have an AVC-R I am forced to readjust the goddam thing every 4months b/c of temperature changes :( and off course the is no overboost warning it just fights with itself to decrease boost...... But as a friend of my put it, " when some one tries to race you just hold it up, then they want nothing to do with you"
 

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If you ra college student, just get a bleeder valve (5 bucks) can be up to 60 hp. 10 hp per psi. But you NEED A BOOST GAUGE. no more than 14.5 on stock. you can get a cheap one for about 40 dollars. or go mbc. I think I still have my first mbc laying around here somewhere and a boost gauge. Deffinetly go bc first, then catback, then dp. I got my exhaust custom done for 150 dollars from the dp back in 3", and I got a DP made for 100 dollars in 3", Plus 50 bucks for the 4" chrome tips comming out. I went straight pipe, I think it sounds good,If you want to run a muffler, get one, and run both pipes out of it like stock. Don't get an avc-r unless you have the extra money. A cheap mbc or bleeder valve will do the trick the same way.
 
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