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‘93 Stealth 20Ts w/ supporting mods
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, I know the SDT is quite new and there probably hasn't been a lot of experience tuning with it out there, but in the event some of you have become familiar or have had a similar problem, I'm hoping to find some guidance.
Prelude: Two days ago I was running on an OEM MAF, driving and idle characteristics were great, AFRs lined up, no starting or idling issues. That night I installed the AshSpec SDT, all else being the same except new routing for pre-turbo pipes.
The problem: The car will start up, however it immediately pegs to 10.0:1 AFR, vacuum on the boost gauge is only 12inHg when it is normally 21inHg at idle, idle surges horribly, dumping raw fuel smoke from the exhaust and barely staying running. It should be noted that the AFR itself isn't telltale, as my car typically cold starts at around 10:1 and creeps up to stoich within 20-30 seconds. I am running Chrome, and have a very mildly modified ROM, everything is quite close to stock except injector size and slightly leaned out WOT fuel values.
Things I've checked: boost leak tested, all vacuum lines holding 20+psi, no other leaks found aside from a little air out the crankcase vents (car was dead cold). Checked all connections on SDT, and I am getting readouts on airflow signal, RPM, MAP, and intake temp. Airflow signal is wonky but hard to verify accuracy when it's dumping fuel and surging. RPM and intake temps are accurate, but the MAP is only seeing 5inHg vacuum while rough idling. Ran the vacuum line outside the car to the SDT to eliminate the possibility of a kink. Checked every sensor connection, ignition connectors, fuel injector connectors, ECU connectors and so forth.
I'm at a bit of an impass. I know these are supposed to be plug and play (for a stock turbo car), but mine isn't stock so a little tuning should be expected. Adam aka Monochrome has been helping by looking at my current rom, sending new roms and checking out my logs. He's been great, but he also has a life and I know he can't wait on me hand and foot to help, and there are others in this community with a wealth of knowledge as well.
Sorry for the long post, I just want to cover as much details of the problem as I can to eliminate confusion. Listed below are the general details and mods on my car:
1993 Stealth TT
91-93 Fed-Spec Chrome ECU
20T turbos
Forged rods and pistons 8:1 bored .015" over
Dual core FMIC and pre-turbo pipes
0.5mm oversized intake and exhaust valves
2.5" turbo-back exhaust
800cc injectors
320lph hotwired fuel pump
AFPR
Any insight is helpful and appreciated, and I will try to answer any questions about the car, tune or logs as accurately as I can.
 

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I've already tuned two cars with 20Ts and the SDT. I wasn't super impressed until I sent out the 1220cc injectors to be checked out, swapped the 360s in, flashed the map, and went for a drive. I was floored that the car drove like stock on the SDT with no tuning on 20Ts and hit fuel cut just above 10 psi which was about 400hp. This was at 45 psi base fuel pressure. So yes it does work well and the translator is worked out very well. I thought with the VE so wildly different on the 20Ts and supporting mods that the SDT wouldn't be able to handle it without a tune on stock injectors but it did things flawlessly.

Here's a current pic of the 20T setup with my SD turbo intakes and ETS style under the front turbo FMIC routing for CX single and dual-core as well as 3SX FMIC kit add-on that I developed and built. It'll be getting a Fuelab FPR installed next week but it doesn't have a bunch of mods. Engine is bone stock.




It sounds like if Adam was working with you then he probably helped you make the right corrections. Make sure you made the map changes for the SDT. You have to change these tables:



So besides the SDT and pre-turbo pipes you didn't do anything else to the tune? A lot of times you have to readjust the injector latencies but if they were good before they should be good even after the SDT install. The only thing I would check because my car had pig rich 9-10 idle issues was the SDT config file had issues. I was beta testing and found some bugs that Adam fixed in the next software release. It would not take the 3KGT firmware/software flash. Instead, it was on the 300ZX config file and that made the car barely run. I would make sure you check that. Take a picture of your SDT screen while the car is running to make sure.

This is the incorrect config and the car will run like crap if your screen is showing this Nissan config.



This is what the SDT should be showing with the proper 3S config file. It'll say 3KGT KV Intake at the bottom.




Now if all that checks out and it seems like you don't have any boost/vacuum leak issues despite a somewhat low vacuum map reading that could be attributed to a really low idle, then your next step is you better start editing your injector latencies. Turn off your 02 sensors to force open loop(no 02 feedback) and see what your true AFRs are without the ecu using the +/-12% fuel trims to bring the AFRs to 14.7. Just a side note, I have noticed a pretty consistent 3-5% fuel difference on two different cars with the SDT and Chrome going from open loop to closed loop with closed loop enabled needing a little more fuel. I don't know why that is but it's just what I've observed. You can go into the periphery 0 and turn off bits 1,2, and 4 to force open loop.





This is the table you'll be editing quite a bit at first in order to dial in your injector latencies. Completely ignore any of the injector latencies that are posted on the web, manufacturer latency values that are provided, and so forth. Besides Evo 560cc injectors that have known good ecuflash latency values, I've never had any manufacturer and/or web injector latencies be even remotely close to what is necessary. The only way to tune them is to take stock values and start adding or subtracting fuel from there via % edits of the latencies. Adam recommends this from the get go and it has been the quickest way in my experience on over a dozen Chrome tunes/cars to dial it in.



I get this backwards sometimes and now I can't remember which way is which. I thought it was the smaller the injector ms lag time the richer the car will run and the longer the lag time the leaner the car will run. Anyways, multiply it by either 0.8 or 1.2 depending on if you need to go richer or leaner. That will make 20% fuel corrections at a time. You can fine tune this table as well by say multiplying it by .98 or 1.02 if you want to just make 2% injector changes but don't get too excited about that. If it's pig rich in the 10s, then adjust the latency values until it's closer to 14-15 AFR. Turn back on the bits 1,2, and 4 to enable closed loop and if the car is running richer or leaner then go ahead and add or subtracted a couple percent of fuel in the VE MAF Smoothing table at the 0-100Hz values. This is the low(idle) trim range.

That should give you enough to get started barring any major mechanical issues. I'll come back and reply here and there as I get time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
TurboSinceBirth thank you so much for all of that information! Adam did mention a couple things that you did, but it didn't seem to get me anywhere. I did change the MAF scaling and smoothing tables to the recommended values for the SDT on his website. Also it is configured for 3KGT KV on the SDT screen.
Before SDT: Previous injector scaling was at 620 for my 800cc deatschwerks with MAF, and latency values were per mfgr on deatschwerks website. Idled at stoich. Probably not the correct order of injector tuning but I was still in the earlier stages of learning.
Another note is I unplugged SDT, car started right up and idled at 14.8:1 with no surging. Idle was definitely much smoother but it for sure sounds like its down on a couple cylinders with it unplugged.

I did not touch the tune aside from MAF scaling and smoothing when I installed the SDT. Today I made a few adjustments per your recommendations to try leaning it out a bit, but no dice. It still surges badly at 10.0:1 billowing fuel smoke. I'll try to include as much detail of what I've changed so far to try to get it to idle:
  • Turned off bits 1,2 and 4 in periphery 0 to force open loop.
  • Scaled injectors from 620 to 800.
  • Reset injector latencies to factory (interestingly, the factory 360 latency values are about 20% less than the recommended values for my 800ccs) then took the factory values down 20%. So about 40% less than the previous values when I ran MAF.
  • Reduced Coolant Temp Fuel Enrichemnt table by 20% in low temp cells and by 40-50% in higher temp cells.
  • Reduced cranking injector pulsewidth by 20% in all cells.
  • Reduced post-start enrichment factor vs coolant temp by 10% in all cells.
Wrote new adjustments to ECU. Started up with the exact characteristics as it did before making all these adjustments. During this time I discovered my new plugs were completely fuel fouled, even wet with fuel. I took the front 3 out and torched/brushed them until they were clean, hoping I could get it to at least fire on the front 3 to note a slightly better or worse idle, even for a few seconds. After I cleaned the front plugs, fired up again and the only thing I could note was that for 1-2 seconds AFR was 11.2:1, then came straight down to 10:1 and continued surging and blowing smoke. Plugs were again fouled and wet.

I would think with that much fuel taken away I'd notice some kind of difference, at least in the AFR on the gauge, but it sticks solid to 10.0:1, even when I try to rev. Could the rear plugs being fouled cause surge like that? With the condition the plugs were in when I pulled them, I'm not surprised a bunch of unburnt fuel made it through the exhaust, but the surge still puzzles me. Oil change imminent lol
 

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It'll surge because it's pig rich, fouling plugs, and getting misfires even at idle. You'll hear it misfiring because the car will start to sound like a Subaru. That'll give you bad readings on the wideband as well because it's not igniting all of the fuel.

It sounds more like you have the symptoms of a bad maf signal because unplugging the SDT puts the car in limp mode and idles at 14.8. It sounded down a couple of cylinders because the plugs were fouled. It really shouldn't be that far off. When your car is idling with the SDT plugged in what is the airflow Hz reading? It'll jump around a lot on the screen since you'll have to use evoscan to log it but you should see roughly 40-55Hz. I'm curious if it's far off from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry for the late response, took a long weekend at the lake to clear my head.
Update: swapped plugs and ran on the same tune, car started with only light surging, then smoothed out. AFR is swinging back and forth from 11:1 to 15:1, then smooths out to about 12:1, then sweeps towards 16:1 at which point it dies on its own. All this happens in a matter of about 8-10 seconds.
Changed injectors latency, coolant temp enrichment, and post-start enrichment factor vs coolant back to my previous tune, which seemed to help a little with initial richness, but still sweeps lean and dies after 8 or so seconds.

Airflow Hz readings on the log are still bouncy, cycling at start from 200 to about 80, then smoothing out around 40-60 before going downhill and dying. I’ll attach two pictures, the first being the airflow values at initial start, and the second being the values before it dies. 2byteAirflow is in column Q.
 

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What’s in columns T and U? Also, do you have a log showing your front and rear 02 sensor voltages? I’m wondering if you have some lazy 02 sensors and they aren’t making the full 0-1V cycle rapidly, at all, making a smaller cycle, or just hanging towards one end of the spectrum or the other. It won’t play nicely with the fuel corrections the ecu needs when it’s trying to hit 14.7:1 stoich. Your AFRs are all over the place and the ecu seems as if it isn’t being given the correct data to make corrections which makes it “chase” changes or lag behind in adjustments. You could restart the car with closed loop disabled to see if it behaves the same way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’m pretty sure the O2 sensors are not cycling, least not from 0-1V. I tried idling in both open and closed loop, same result.
Please correct me if I am wrong, but I thought the O2 sensors don’t start cycling and providing feedback to ECU for fuel control until a certain coolant temp and sensor temp is achieved. Meaning cold idle wouldn’t be affected by O2 sensors. Again if I’m wrong then I’d like to learn the right information.
When I get home to my laptop, I’Il post the last log I took (Periphery 0 bits 1,2, and 4 are enabled for closed loop), and if you’d like I also have the open loop log from the start before that.
 

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I’m pretty sure the O2 sensors are not cycling, least not from 0-1V. I tried idling in both open and closed loop, same result.
Please correct me if I am wrong, but I thought the O2 sensors don’t start cycling and providing feedback to ECU for fuel control until a certain coolant temp and sensor temp is achieved. Meaning cold idle wouldn’t be affected by O2 sensors. Again if I’m wrong then I’d like to learn the right information.
When I get home to my laptop, I’Il post the last log I took (Periphery 0 bits 1,2, and 4 are enabled for closed loop), and if you’d like I also have the open loop log from the start before that.
Below 140 degrees and above certain ecu load as well as TPS settings, the ecu will be in open loop. You can see the three tables in the ROM. There’s also a warmup timer inhibitor for closed loop that delays it by 15-40 seconds depending on your coolant temp. I don’t know about your car but they always warm up pretty quickly where I’m at.

I only ask about the 02 behavior because it can throw things way out of whack. I don’t think I’ve tuned a single car that didn’t have at least one 02 sensor replaced and 90% of them had both replaced even when they were less than 2-3 years old. It gets worse the bigger the injectors you go especially 1000+ territory. The ecu freaks out and will surge.

You probably have some other things going on though. There still seems to be something mechanically/electrically odd with the car given how it’s behaving. The other reason for mentioning 02s is because you said when you unplugged the SDT it idled at 14.8 AFR and ran better albeit sounding like it was down a cylinder or two. When you unplug the MAF and put the car into limp mode it no longer uses any of the closed loop functions and does a lookup based on rpm and coolant temp. It almost at that point sounds like you either have incorrect reading 02s giving bad data or a bad airflow signal. Bad input equals bad ecu output.

I’ve usually only had to mess with the cranking IPW and coolant temp enrichment tables on larger injectors. Having those values always worked out. I never had to edit any other tables until there was an E85 cold start issue on 1000cc+ injectors under below freezing temps. I’d recommend not messing around with a lot of the start/post start tables since it won’t solve mechanical issues on the car.

If you had some stock injectors to swap in it could be the fastest way to fix any bugs in the system eliminating you trying to tune around them to fix them. Most people usually don’t save them so that may not be an option for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Yeah I haven't been able to let the car run long enough to get anywhere near closed loop, since it dies within 8 seconds. I will note that the MAF plug from the SDT sits cockeyed in the harness side. Measuring the SDT MAF plug I saw that the plug is uneven side to side, with one side being taller than the other. I'm not sure if this is a major player in my issue, but I'm still getting Hz readings on the SDT screen.
My O2s are only a year old, OEM from Cherry Hill :confused: so I hope they haven't given up the ghost yet.

I had a set of stock injectors I had cleaned and flow tested for the first start of my build, which was only a year ago. Sadly I sold them a few months back to someone who needed them for the same purpose.
I believe Adam has mentioned that the fuel trims are still referenced by the ECU in open loop, so if my low fuel trims were severely negative I can see how the car would die after the post-start enrichment timers are exhausted. My wideband is far enough downstream that I know at idle the readings lag enough to propose that the true AFR coming from the engine when it dies is closer to 20:1 instead of the 16:1 on the gauge. My confusion is why it is leaning out after so many seconds.
It won't allow me to attach Excel log files here, but maybe I can send them to you via PM, or even email.
Of the two logs, the one titled "SDT fresh plugs" is forced open loop, and the other is with closed loop enabled. I am not sure why on the open loop log the O2 feedback is at -25, whereas it is 0 on the closed loop log. Or why I have no fuel trims unless leaving the battery unhooked reset the trims. I may play with low Hz VE values to see if it cures my lean sweep.

One last note, I have a brand new aftermarket ISC, and logging is showing steps anywhere from 58-120. I'm not sure if there is a procedure to reset the ISC, or if I need to lubricate the pintle on the inside where it goes into the TB, but I had read a thread about idle stumble and leanness where you mentioned warmup ISC steps usually stay below 25, and the OP said he lubricated the ISC and it solved his problem.
 

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I would leave the post start enrichment factor back as stock and leave everything else the same but don’t mess with your startup tables any further since it starts fine.

You may be referring to this from the Chromed website for the fuel trims being referenced in open loop:


As soon as you disconnect your battery it resets the fuel trims to zero and when you disable closed loop in the peripheries it stops updating the trims. The long term trims take 4 minutes per cycle to update and four cycles(16 minutes) to average out so it isn’t like you can see anything that is going on. The short term instant trims can help some but don’t rely on them too heavily because it’s an instant trim that varies constantly not an average and can be deceiving at times. If they are pegged for the front or rear that’s definitely a tall tale sign you are too rich or lean.

The post start enrichment is a very small amount of time as well. At most for -26 degrees it’s a 3 second long initial period followed by a 2.2 second factor so that’s only 5.2 seconds. Closer to 70 degrees it’s a 1.6s timer and 1.3s factor so still very short.


Your car is likely dying out because it’s too lean meaning that your injector latency values need to be richened up and make that lag time longer for more fueling. Injector scaling doesn’t really do anything for idle but rather affects cruising more. Latency has the biggest factor on the fueling at idle for the very first initial dialing it. You can get it relatively close to stoich +\- 1 AFR just by messing with the latency times. I wouldn’t go into the VE table for the 0-100Hz cells until you can get it idling and light cruising just on the latency numbers first. The VE table can then fine tune the idle. So try adding more fuel via the injector latency table and see how the car behaves. Leave the car with closed loop disabled so you can dial it in initially quicker.

You can see some 60+ IAC step values on a cold start higher idle. You’ll end up needing to reset your idle by adjusting the BISS screw when it’s warmed up. The IAC will be making huge step changes if the idle isn’t close enough to what the ecu is commanding and this is usually because the BISS screw is set improperly causing too much air to be bypassed contradicting what the IAC is trying to accomplish. The IAC can also test perfectly fine on resistance across the three coils and appear to be good; however, if you have more than probably 1/8 turn of slack in the pintle it will give intermittent idle stability issues at random. I just had this happen on a car. The ecu basically did a seesaw action once in awhile because it was essentially over correcting via the IAC due to too much play in the pintle. A new IAC fixed it. This was on 1220cc injectors though which were way more sensitive at 1.5-2ms injector times than your 880s would be. BISS adjustment procedure can be found here:Engine: Adjust Idle Speed - 3000GT/Stealth Wiki
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Welp, you've been saying it this whole time, and I didn't listen from the start. After some extra reading I found another thread where you verified adding latency richens and subtracting latency leans. I got to 40% added latency in the table and now the car idles without surging at 15.8. All I have to do is adjust it a little more closer to stoich. I can't thank you enough for your help. I'm still learning a lot, and this has been a simple but hard-won lesson thanks to you (and I need to give adam his due, as he also mentioned latencies).
The only hiccups I'm experiencing now is the car stumbles lean for a second as soon as I tap the gas, also after the idle settles down below 1000rpm it sweeps lean and idles low like it might die. Any idea what adjustments could be made to remedy that?
 

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It’s still too lean by a decent amount. You’ll notice as you richen it up via the latency values that it will clean up the hesitation so just keep going with the adjustments. It’s not close enough yet where I would start adjusting the VE table.

I’ve had multiple cars that idled leaner by about 3-4% going from open to closed loop so don’t freak out if it seems like it behaves differently when you turn the 02 sensors back on. I don’t know why it’s that way but has just been my experience in case you run into it. Just add the fuel in the 0-100Hz cells in the VE MAF smoothing table. Also, if you are on a stock FPR with an aftermarket fuel pump and notice a super lean idle but under cruising and higher load it’s fine, it’s due to the FPR overrun with a higher base fuel pressure sometimes near 55-65 psi if you put a gauge on it. I have at times had to add up to 14% extra fuel at idle only due to this if the customer didn’t want to install an AFPR right away. It may look a little weird but for whatever reason the higher the base fuel pressure, the higher the cc flow rate of the injectors, and the leaner the car idles. You’d think it would be opposite and run rich but it isn’t. It only does it at idle as well. Other load areas aren’t affected as much in my experience.

It‘s kind of complicated/overwhelming at first trying to dial in the fuel but once you understand how it works and see how things behave with adjustments, it’s pretty easy. It’s typical to want to go in and make all sorts of table adjustments to make the car run right vs just sticking to the injector latency values.

It’s unfortunate that the manufacturer numbers aren’t close to what we end up needing and there’s an overall lack of tuning training/explanation of how things work. A lot of the info is out there for the tables and such but maybe eventually someone can do a YouTube series on how to tune with Chrome. It would reduce the repetitive written work but I also know tuning education as a whole across platforms has never really been a strong point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I kept going with the latency until idle was hovering around stoich, and it did help the stumble a little, but after a short cruise warm idle AFR is 13.8 at 43Hz airflow (glad to see airflow readings leveled out). Shut the car off to look at my log, and now the car won’t start. Not sure if it’s too rich or too lean. Stumbles like it wants to start, but it won’t.

Another thing of note is while driving, it cruised around 16:1, but if I lightly accelerated it would try to go up to 18:1 but stayed running. So I came straight home hoping to add some fuel in the respective VE cells from the log.

I have an AFPR, set to 43psi without vacuum connected. Fuel pressure hasn’t been a problem yet, even when it was idling like hell last week.

On the subject of manufacturer latency values, I’m surprised to find that Deatschwerks lists the values for Mitsubishi EcuFlash. They recommend scaling these (800cc) injectors to 622cc, which I followed before the SDT with good results. Now I have it set to 800cc and have been changing the latencies.
Definitely idled better before I drove it but now it won’t start so I’m playing a waiting game to find out what it needs
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wouldn’t start for about 2 hours, then magically started again. Idled around stoich on its own for almost 10 minutes, at which point I double checked fuel pressure and tried adjusting base idle using SAS mode. I cannot get SAS mode to activate in EvoScan v2.9, or at least not the first dozen times I tried. Also couldn’t force it into SAS mode by grounding the brown connector. After the car idled fine for 10 minutes, it began surging and AFR went lean and it died. The few starts after that, it did the same thing as yesterday, and died lean after a couple seconds, and now again won’t start. Somehow after all this, SAS mode is activating in EvoScan.
Phew…what a day.
 

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It almost sounds like the car isn’t getting enough fuel and is too lean but it’s also way more inconsistent than it should be. I’m wondering if you are having some sort of fuel issue. You can’t trust the oil filled gauges when warmed up if that is what you are referencing when checking the fuel pressure. I consistently saw a 15-20 psi drop and it was confirmed with Aeromotive that the internal pressure changes with heat yielding bad readings.

To get into SAS mode you have to ground the brown connector and you have to ground a pin in the OBD2 port. Usually I leave the datalogger hooked up and then ground the brown connector. If you don’t have the OBD2 port grounded it will put the car in base ignition timing mode not base idle mode. That should help.

Since you will be likely watching Evoscan to set the idle rpm with the biss screw, you can also watch the IAC step count number. Adjust the BISS screw if your idle is way off from 750 or whatever you have it set to in Chrome and then watch the step count. Adjust the BISS until you get 7-10 IAC counts. At hot idle that’s about what you should see. It re-centers/resets the home position essentially so that you give the IAC full range of adjustment again. Cbatters always had a good explanation of setting idle/BISS/IAC: how to set setting base idle ? please help.

I would try to set your idle if you can and then maybe check your fuel pressure when it starts going crazy to see if you have good fuel pressure. Log your rpm, airflow, IAC steps, 02 voltages, short term low front and rear trims, and wideband to see exactly how it’s behaving. It almost sounds like similar behavior I had when the IAC was intermittently going bad/too sloppy. Randomly the idle would surge and do funky things. AFRs would go all over the place but that was the ecu trying to compensate for the air coming and going from the IAC on adjustments. It turned into a lagging ecu behavior where it got too much air, then not enough, and so forth. The pintle on the IAC had about 40 degrees of back and forth rotation vs about 10 degrees on the new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I was going to update today with good news, but had a little damper in my progress.
VE smoothing is going well, I’ve been dialing in cruise, moderate load and WOT with good success. Car pulls like a freight train at 18psi! Each little adjustment seemed to yield positive results, and I’m happy about that.
The demon in the closet showed its face with some weird tach issues I experienced one time last summer, it hasn’t happened since so I never got around to diagnosing it.

At cruise, and more during spoolup, the tach drops straight to 0 and the car bucks something horrible. For the most part it’s random, and the tach will come back to normal at random and the car will smooth out. I babied the car to my lake property about 35 minutes from my house since I was on my way out there and was too far to turn back and risk it dying before I got home.

My first guess would be PTU, since mine is aftermarket and gave me 6 months of problem-free service, my guess is it’s on its way out. I’ve only had the Chrome in for a year (new) so I’d sure hope the problem isn’t there, and the coils are OEM new last year as well, so it’s likely a problem with the wires from ECU to PTU, or the PTU itself. Any experience with those symptoms?
 

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It sounds more like the PTU because if you don’t have a proper rpm reading, the SDT won’t function properly and give you some bad airflow output readings that will make the car run pretty rough. That’s why you had to tap the green wire from the SDT into an rpm signal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Lucky fix? I hope so!
Started it up this morning, and was greeted with similar idle characteristics as I was having at the start of this thread. Yikes.

I happened to save my old oem ptu when I rebuilt the engine, so I swapped that in and was greeted with a crisp 14.8:1 and stable idle. Drove it under different loads for about 5 miles, then worked my way up to WOT. It cruises and pulls without skipping a beat, and I’m even noticing the RPM needle is smoother as it moves.

Tomorrow, I’m going to drive it and switch between the two PTUs, and if the difference is the same as I saw today, I’ll try to source a new oem ptu and use this one as a backup.

I’m slowly starting the figure out that there may be more bugs to work out in the car than I’d anticipated, but with each little fix I’m getting more familiar with the car as a system, and it’s been running better and better.
Thank you again TSB, you’ve been a very kind and patient teacher. I feel like you took extra time to go in depth, attach images and links with the steps, and helped guide me through so I really appreciate it man
 

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No problem! I’ve worked through a number of issues and am working through some others on a few other setups. It’s nice to see the behaviors the problems cause and the solutions too. It definitely appeals to the engineer in me learning from it all. I’m glad it’s all working out!
 
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