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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone replace cam seals in a DOHC? The manual shows a special tool to drive the seal which screws into the camshaft, but I wonder if this can be done with a socket.

Any input on removal and replacement would be of help.

Thanks,

Perry
 

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Wrenchmonkey #839
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I used the tool

I used the special tool. I was buying a timingbelt tensioning tool at the time from miller tools so it was only a little extra. The only thing special about the tool is that it is stepped so you get the seal in at the right depth and you get it in square.

You could do it with a socket if you are carefull. If you want I will try to measure my tool this weekend:D

Ever see the movie "The last American Virgin" ? best quote of the movie. "biggest tool wins the pool!"
 

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The Wizard Of Aaahhhhh's
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Hey John, could you give me the part number for the cam seal tool? I am probably going to be putting valve seals in my car soon, and I might as well get that tool too.


Chris
 

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cam seal is a little ring. i saw Mits. used this thing kinda like a big nut (hard to describe) but it will fit perfect to tap the cam seal into place. I think you might even able to use your hand or something circle to tap that in there. Not sure..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
John,

If you could measure the tool that would be great. I think I would have bought the tool from Miller too, if only I new one of the cam seals was leaking before I started the t-belt job.

Couple other questions for you. Did you hold the cams at the shaft hex during the seal replacement? What method did you find best to pry this seal?


Thanks,


Perry
 

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Discussion Starter #7
John,

I don't mean to bug you, but have you had a chance to measure your tool, I'm getting ready to put the seals in. I measure between 2.5 to 3.0 mm recess.

By the way all, you can use a 32 mm socket and a 12mm - 1.25 (pitch) x about 30 mm bolt thru the square drive and you will have close to the Mitsu tool. I will tap mine because I don't have the bolt. A short socket will work on the front bank, but you'll need a deep socket for the back. I won't be installing the rears. I just check the mitsu tool is $85 from Miller

Thanks,


Perry
 

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Does anyone have the part numbers for some of the special tools that would be helpful? And the number of where to order them from?
Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #10
John,


Thanks! So the seal is driven .090" passed the surface of the head (recessed)

Christmas lights - 'Tis the season, I should be doing the same. But this t-belt job turned into a case of "might as wells" and a couple of hiccups with the "OEM" aftermarket waterpump as so on.


Man breaking the cam gear bolt was tough, torque way passed the 65 ft-lb spec. How did you hold your cams in alignment while breaking the bolt loose - thats a challenge.


Thanks,

Again,


Perry
 

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Wrenchmonkey #839
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Leave timing belt on when loosening cam gears

edge said:

Man breaking the cam gear bolt was tough, torque way passed the 65 ft-lb spec. How did you hold your cams in alignment while breaking the bolt loose - thats a challenge.
I left the timing belt on when breaking the cam gears loose. Then I used a big adjustable wrench (a fixed open end would be better but I didn't have that size) on the hex section of the camshaft. Then I used a breaker bar on the bolt on the camshaft gears.

The reason I left the timing belt on is for saftey. If I slipped and turned the camshaft over the block will turn over too so the valves will not hit the pistons. I broke all four bolts loose the removed the camshaft gears.

John Monnin
 
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