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Discussion Starter #1
Mine was changed by the dealer and I took the timing covers off to look at it and it has a hole on the top left side of it.... the hole has threads in it and it looks like there should be a bolt there. I had them look at it and they are telling me it is bolted in from the back?

I asked how in the hell you can bolt a water pump up to the block from the back?

He didnt really answer me then he said it was because a bracket was missing on my car but I didnt need it.
 

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If I remember correctly, there is a threaded hole on the upper left side of the pump. It is bolted from the other side. The water pump is actually 2 pieces that bolt together. Most of the bolts are fastened from the front but, for some reason, that hole is bolted from the backside.
 

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In the CENTER of the water pump, right above the pulley, there is a theaded hole for a small bracket but that hole faces down. All the mounting bolts screw in from the front. If I remember correctly there is a cover over the impeller that bolts in from the back but there's no reason that should have been messed with, and none of those bolts should be missing. I guess you could live without that bracket but if YOU didn't take it out were did it go?
Yesterday you mentioned that since getting the belt and pump changed you've been hearing a rapping noise. To me that sounds like the belt wasn't tensioned correctly and is slapping against the cover. I think I'd be asking the dealer if they have the belt tensioning tool and did they use it?* I hate to say this but the more I hear the more I wonder if this isn't another dealer cluster-f*ck.

*Any answer besides "Of course, we have the tool right here and of course we used it" is WRONG!! There is no substitute, and yes, you do need it.
 

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The cover over the impeller...that's what I'm referring to. When I purchased my water pump, I had to separate the old pump to rebuild the new.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the help guys... Just after I spent a grand on my spark plugs wires waterpump and timing belt I got my car back with a new problem. I took it to a few people and it seems my main bearing is going out :( I wasnt too hard on the car though so I am hoping I dont have to replace my crank. I have only had the car for 2 months and I added 3000 miles.

I guess I will be broke again this month too :(
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am not sure yet all we know is it is a knock inside the block. He is going to take the pan off and look at the bottom end and see.
 

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I'm replacing my t-belt , waterpump and tensioner tomorrow do to a bad tensioner. Could be your tensioner or the belt was not tensioned right. Was your tensioner replaced? I can hear my tensioner hitting the adjuster on cold start, it sounds like a diesel. Also, these cars make a hell of a valve train racket if they are left to sit for a few weeks and the oil drains.

FWIW I found an OEM pump at the aftermarket parts store for $ 60 US under p/n MD997643. It requires you remove and replace the back of the housing like other aftermarket pumps. The other OEM pump MD 972005, has the housing attached. As said above, there is one bolt attached from the back side


Perry
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am not really sure what it is I am hoping it is something easy like my oil pump or a rod bearing and not the crank... because I dont have the tools or the time to do that kinda work for myself :(
 

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redredmelo said:
hostile, the crankshaft is cheap, I paid $280 for a reman with all bearings, don't worry :)
where did you find that? The best I can find is $400 for a reman 2nd gen forged with bearings. Anyone know what an oil pump costs? Might as well do that too, while I have the motor out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Can the crank come out from the bottom? It looks like I am goingt to just replace all of the bearings if it cant.
 
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