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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got this fucked up "ticking" noise going on and it's coming from my tranny or some other part in the drive line. At first I thought it was the engine but I noticed that the sound went away if I pushed the clutch in. I'm pretty sure it's not the throw out bearing. Any other ideas? It sounds loudest near the tranny itself.
 

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Bored User
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It's pretty common. Almost every TT I've ever seen in person has done the same thing.
 

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Turbo-Less
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There's 4 kinds of ticking from the engine/tranny that I know of:

1. Lifter tick. Goes away usually after revving over 3500rpm or so.

2. Rod knock. More of a knock than a tick. Doesn't go away. Very bad.

3. Throwout bearing in clutch/tranny. Goes away when pushing in clutch.

4. Electronic ticks (ie. injectors). Near top of engine, light, clicky tick.


I'm betting #3 since it goes away when you push the clutch. Why do you think it's not the tob??
 

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Badassical Baddage
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Throw-out bearnig

very common.
 

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Dog Is My Co-Pilot
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JeremyG said:
There's 4 kinds of ticking from the engine/tranny that I know of:

1. Lifter tick. Goes away usually after revving over 3500rpm or so.

2. Rod knock. More of a knock than a tick. Doesn't go away. Very bad.

3. Throwout bearing in clutch/tranny. Goes away when pushing in clutch.

4. Electronic ticks (ie. injectors). Near top of engine, light, clicky tick.


I'm betting #3 since it goes away when you push the clutch. Why do you think it's not the tob??
Don't forget:

5. Input shaft rattle. No pilot bearing + worn input shaft bearing = rattle.

6. Clutch rattle.
 

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It's like that
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Anyone have an idea as to what would make a noise when first starting my car... but only some of the time? It's a weird noise - sort of loud, and a very fast ticking / tapping noise. It lasts for all of three or four seconds when I first turn the key in the morning sometimes then immediately goes away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Anyone have an idea as to what would make a noise when first starting my car... but only some of the time? It's a weird noise - sort of loud, and a very fast ticking / tapping noise. It lasts for all of three or four seconds when I first turn the key in the morning sometimes then immediately goes away.
I think that's just lifter tick. It's real bad when you first start the car because all the oil is still in the pan. My car does that too but it only lasts for a couple seconds then it's all good.

A couple other things about the noise coming from my tranny. It's very rhythmatic. Just like lifter tick except it's not as "sharp" of a sound. more dull and lower in pitch. grrrr.. I'm gonna have to get a clip of this and post it. I don't think it's any of the top 3 Jeremy posted and I don't think it's the throw out bearing because I know what those sound like.... They're very erratic sounding when they go out .
 

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Big C
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I wish Paul H. would chime in on this one and post a "sticky" on here... supposedly he put a spring on the release fork and the sound went away....

supposedly the noise is the release fork vibrating, could however be the input shaft though considering that there is no pilot bearing on the end, but I know for a fact that it is NOT the throw-out bearing as everybody thinks it is... it makes sense, but so does the release fork, and considering that I recently replaced my throw-out bearing w/ a BRAND NEW one from the local Mitsu dealer and I STILL get that noise, I believe we can rule it out for good
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is yours real rhythmatic too. And by that I mean the noise will occur exactly once every second or 1/2 second? Oh and get this just 2 weeks ago I was driving home from work and my clutch pedal went all the way to the floor so I had a hell of a time shifting. Thought slave/master cylinder was leaking so I went to a gas station popped the lid on the master cylinder and saw no fluid in there so I put some in and it filled instantly. WTF no leak? so I started the car again and I had my clutch pedal back. It hasn't acted up since. Real weird

I don't know if this is related or not but thought I'd add it.
 

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I know this is an old thread...

I HAVE the exact same problem. My clutch pedal went to the floor and I couldn't shift.

I checked my clutch fluid reservoir and it was bone dry. Refilled it and the the car was leaking clutch fluid big time. I took it to a shop, they said it looks like the clutch slave cylinder leaking. I wanted to find out more before getting anything fixed.

I refilled it again probably once more during the same day. The next day I fill it again in the morning.

During the day I go and buy a new slave cylinder (using a friends car). That night I go to fill it up again..WTF...no leak. I checked this morning too, no leak.

How the heck did that happen?? I'm still confused! :eek:

later,
Amir
 

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Amir,

I had a problem a couple years ago with my clutch. It lost it's pressure when I would depress it. I checked the fluid at the clutch reservoir and found it very low.

At first, I thought it could be the clutch slave cylinder but after further inspection I found it was the clutch hose. Jeff Lucius has a very helpful webpage that has pictures showing how to fix it yourself. This wasn't around when I did mine but it sure would help someone who hasn't done it before.

You said it has no leaks now, but check under pressure for leaks. Did you stand there while they inspected the leak? Make sure it's the clutch slave cylinder. The clutch hose is more likely to go. Have a friend press the pedal down while you look at the hose for leaks. The clutch hose part should cost about $15 or less. Even if it's the clutch slave cylinder (less likely), it's not very hard to change. No matter what though, you need to pull all those hoses off & the battery to get a good view. Use Jeff's website for guidance.

Hope this helps.



Mario
e-mail: [email protected]
1994 VR-4 80K miles
ATR downpipe - HKS exhaust - Apexi AVCR - Stillen air intake - (new)RPS stage III max 6-puck - Spark plug gap .30

 
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