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1G Foglights b!tches
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Discussion Starter · #3,542 ·
Just finished reading this entire thread all 3,539 +1 posts!! I have absolutely no regrets work get kinda slow...
That's badass! And also sorry. lol This is at times my personal blog.I did try to catalog all of the technical stuff here though (lots of lessons learned and changes to improve). Unfortunately it's diluted with other BS.
Now ya gotta read the 4g63 swap thread .... lol JK
Oh yeah! That's a good one!! That's a throwback at this point lol. I miss the sh!t talking :p
 
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1G Foglights b!tches
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Discussion Starter · #3,544 ·
I’m back bitches!

Turn any 4 wire alternator, externally adjustable, with potentiometer for only $2 !



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1992 3000GT VR4
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Hummmm
Very interesting
Like where this is going

Got to thinking if it's really not needing this up until you really need to use the higher power output
Was thinking of 1 10 Farad Cap they use for lower amperage alternators to store some of this extra power
Mostly used for subwoofer or aftermarket subwoofer on factory low amperage alternators
To feed the amplifier constant drain and a smoother transition is voltage supplied instead of surging or sucking the volts right out the battery it will suck it out of the Large 10farad capacitor
(Trying to rig this up in my head of how it would do you some good justice)
Really what I'm getting at is over charging your cranking battery and voltage supplied to it
Giving it a storage and a device to release it smoothly

Hopefully the alternator won't prematurely fail from excessive heat from discharge
She might get a little warm

Just some thoughts might help 👍
 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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9,095 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3,546 ·
With a capacitor you are thinking amperage/capacity, not voltage (more POWA!).

With a 14v battery, charging at 16v it’s like running a “boost a pump” all the time for the fans, fuel pumps etc.

Fuel pumps flow more at 16v than 14v. Look up some flow charts on fuel pumps. They usually chart 12v and 13.5v and you can just estimate what another 2.5v would do :)

Some guys have posted that they have a wild setup on their 12v battery on a Hobbs switch that kicks in a potentiometer type setup so that when they hit boost, the alternator kicks out 15-16v to boost the fuel pump and coils voltage. You can’t do that all the time or will melt the 12v battery but for short burst, it’s okay.

Oh and my first LS alternator was used on eBay and lasted 3 years on 16v with diodes. The potentiometer is just cleaner and adjustable.


On my son’s car, I plan to set his alternator around 14.2’ish volts on a 12v battery.

On my mr2 build, I haven’t decided yet. Probably 12v battery and the same 14’ish but I like the idea of kicking it higher in boost to give the fuel pump and coils some extra kick.


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1992 3000GT VR4
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With a capacitor you are thinking amperage/capacity, not voltage (more POWA!).

With a 14v battery, charging at 16v it’s like running a “boost a pump” all the time for the fans, fuel pumps etc.

Fuel pumps flow more at 16v than 14v. Look up some flow charts on fuel pumps. They usually chart 12v and 13.5v and you can just estimate what another 2.5v would do :)

Some guys have posted that they have a wild setup on their 12v battery on a Hobbs switch that kicks in a potentiometer type setup so that when they hit boost, the alternator kicks out 15-16v to boost the fuel pump and coils voltage. You can’t do that all the time or will melt the 12v battery but for short burst, it’s okay.

Oh and my first LS alternator was used on eBay and lasted 3 years on 16v with diodes. The potentiometer is just cleaner and adjustable.


On my son’s car, I plan to set his alternator around 14.2’ish volts on a 12v battery.

On my mr2 build, I haven’t decided yet. Probably 12v battery and the same 14’ish but I like the idea of kicking it higher in boost to give the fuel pump and coils some extra kick.


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Awesome pretty cool stuff you got going on for sure
 

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95 VR-4 Spyder
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233 Posts
Interesting alternator wiring. It's basically just the same as a guitar at this point, and I've had to rewire a lot of those over the years. Should look around at some of the knobs they make for guitars, and housings, a lot of them are pretty varied and adjustable, with even "click" settings, so you wouldn't have to worry about it spinning to freely. Good stuff as always.
 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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9,095 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3,550 ·
Yeah it’s just a guitar knob. It doesn’t spin very easily though so this is working great so far!


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Hi.

Just wanted to check in like an absentee owner of a small business trying not to be absent to make everyone nervous.

Thanks

Cars coming along great as usuall I see.
 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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9,095 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3,552 ·
Hi.

Just wanted to check in like an absentee owner of a small business trying not to be absent to make everyone nervous.

Thanks

Cars coming along great as usuall I see.



Been chasing issues for awhile now. But fixed coil wiring was one fix. Also back on e85 instead of M1. Which required re-making intercooler piping.




Seems like I’m back in business and did a couple launches On street that were damn quick. Back to 4wd again too if I haven’t mentioned. Astro awd tcase experiment was a fail. So back to billet chain drive.

At this point, I’m considering the car as “done”. Will race where I can. And start on my next project, 4g63 auto swapping an sw20 MR2. Full street car and plan to “daily” drive it when I actually leave my home office.


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4G63 MR2 would be pretty sweet, definetly should do a build thread on here for it if you do.
 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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9,095 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3,554 ·
4G63 MR2 would be pretty sweet, definetly should do a build thread on here for it if you do.
Already have a rolling chassis, wrap color picked out and a core motor and trans. Lot to buy and do yet though.

Plan on around 600whp with a 2.3l stroker and quick spooling FP/Xona turbo. E85/flex fuel. W2A intercooler (already have that from old LS setup). Likely borrow my 3000 FT550 ecu and just do a wiring harness for now.

Longblock came with ac compressor but I’ll have to get custom lines made in back and the mr2 is missing the condenser at a minimum. Also have the stereo system from 3000 (infinity Bluetooth amp, infinity components and confirmed the 8” kicker fits behind passenger seat).

Big ticket items to purchase yet though. Rotating assembly, cams, springs, FT harness, fortune auto coilovers. Front wheels and tires (stealing the old 18x9.5 with 275’s from front of old 3000 setup for the rear. They fit; just need to roll fenders). ForcedFour shiftbox. Recover stock seats. And who knows what misc crap to get it set up how I want it.

If all goes well, I’ll drive it/race it at Sick Week in Feb down in FL and pop the ttops out and cruise in style.




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Marshall Taylor
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You definitely have a good start. Good luck on this build.
 

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I was going to ask if you were going to include AC as well, glad to see that seems to be the plan...

I've been itching to do a 4G63 Build, I found a rare 4G63 Cyclone intake locally, that I'm going to try to pick up today for the novelty but it's got me feeling nostalgic for my roots.

Something RWD 4G63 like a Starion, FC RX7, or Nissan S Chassis, but I'd be happy with a cheap 1G DSM Shell in need of some work, however they are getting impossible to find unrusted, or somewhat intact, and prices for clean running cars are in the 5 figures now....Cant wait to see the build!

....Maybe the RX-8s engine will finally let go soon, and I'll 4G63 that.
 
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