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1G Foglights b!tches
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8,897 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3,201 ·
Nah, finished last night at 9:30. They still “love” me lol


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Senior **i.e. OLD** Member
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15,400 Posts
I figured, but also knew you were pushing to get things done for the weekend.
Good Luck! (Bring home lots o cash!!!!)

Bob.
 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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8,897 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3,203 ·
Unfortunately looks like it’s going to be rained out


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1G Foglights b!tches
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8,897 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3,204 ·
well, motor didn't work out. smoked head gasket on the street at 20-25psi. oh well. need to retire the old stroked 5.3 block.

Called machine shop and they are looking for a dart block for me to put the 416ci rotating assembly in. Dart is out of stock (and no date for restock, yay) so they are checking distributors and other shops. If that doesn't work, I'll have them weld my ls3 block and surface it properly (unlike how it came to me) and I have new CNC'd heads coming from FP to test.

Hoping to make a big no prep race Aut 28th.
 

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Registered
93 NA ATX 3000gt DOHC
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2,983 Posts
well, motor didn't work out. smoked head gasket on the street at 20-25psi. oh well. need to retire the old stroked 5.3 block.
Don’t know anything about new blocks and heads you run these days. But wondering if you could use a old time trick we used years ago when running blown nitro engines concerning head gasket problems. We had a groove cut in block around each cylinder and a little different diameter groove cut in heads around each chamber, we used piano wire that fit groove tightly (tapped in with plastic mallet) and was a little above surface on both head and block. We use slightly thick cooper head gasket, when head was bolted to block the piano wire in the little different diameter circles caused a S shaped pattern in cooper gasket around each cylinder. That held up for us fairly well even when running up to 90% nitro and 10 % methanol with blower boost up to ~ 30+psi. Just a thought from a very old timer.

I know when the sleeved aluminum racing blocks became available back then, the sleeves had a ridged ring around top for same purpose, and then we only had to groove the heads and install piano wire in them. Hell, your new equipment might even have this built into them:unsure:.
 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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8,897 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3,206 · (Edited)
Oringing. Yes that’s common now. My issue is junk heads aren’t flat, been welded a bunch of times and even my iron block is damaged. Was just trying to patch shit together to make races and couldn’t wait for a machine shop.

Plan to talk to machine shop about oringing and copper a Dart block, but the Dart already has 6 head bolts per cylinder vs 4 on stock LS block so a MLS gasket should be enough for 1500awhp.


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LS3S
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2,235 Posts
Another bummer! So you think it's the heads that are causing all of this? What heads are they? 416 will be awesome and will spool like crazy, going to be awesome!

Question for you: When you wired your tach and speedo, where did you find the wires? Without the stock harness and ecu, I'm assuming there are dash harness connectors hanging down that have the wires I need.
 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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8,897 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3,208 · (Edited)
Another bummer! So you think it's the heads that are causing all of this? What heads are they? 416 will be awesome and will spool like crazy, going to be awesome!

Question for you: When you wired your tach and speedo, where did you find the wires? Without the stock harness and ecu, I'm assuming there are dash harness connectors hanging down that have the wires I need.
I'm not surprised, so not that big of a bummer. It's multiple reasons, i'll shorten the novel. ....PRC heads have been welded multiple times because of pushing pump e85 when non-intercooled. Also had an issue with stuck injectors on Methanol which caused issues a couple times. One of those times torched the iron block too. Then with stock heads, when messing with idle tune and syncing timing, I forgot to turn on water pump and majorly overheated the car which likely warped stock heads that I had put on. One side sealed up pretty good with new(reused athena gaskets), other side did not and torched that stock head and also torched the iron block. So tried a well worn PRC head that was flat but no luck. Everything just needs fully refreshed and resurfaced. I can no longer patch junk.

416 will be killer because of the displacement to spool bigger turbos (car will eventually get twin 78's; could actually spool twin 84+ if I wanted to but don't have the rotating assembly to handle that, would need billet crank etc, but I don't want to go with that much power, want a reliable 15-1600whp; don't need/want to deal with 2000hp, and the cost and likely driveline breakage that would result) and can run bigger valves since I have enough bore for the valves to not hit the block and high flowing CNC'd heads. If I can get a Dart or LSX block, I will have 6 head bolts per cylinder for better clamping. The heads have a thicker deck than stock and so does the block.

for tapping into the stock dash it was just one wire in under dash/body harness for the tach and one for speedo. If i recall it's a white with silver dots for Tach and Yellow with silver dots for speedo.
 

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LS3S
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2,235 Posts
Awesome thanks.

Sounds like you're going to have a killer setup. I have been hunting around to see what I want to do as well as i SUSPECT that I may have torched my engine. I was setting up the cooling system and monitoring temps and all was decentish, wouldn't go above 215...and then the engine all of a sudden bogged and wasn't as responsive. I then found that the lower radiator hose was still cool....so it seems the water pump wasn't pushing any water, potentially a bubble. I swapped the thermostat and the same thing happened, though I shut it off earlier. I'm thinking that the stock temp sensor did not have any water on it, so it was measuring the temp of the head itself perhaps, so it didn't know it was overheating? Not sure, haven't looked into it, but I'm not confident that it isn't hurt. If so, I'll be in a similar situation, though I'll go stockish and cheap most likely.
 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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8,897 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3,210 ·
air in head or stagnant water still gets hot and would show on coolant sensor. (i know from draining my block and trying to make a pass dry :D lol). also know from not turning on pump and boiling out all of the water, the sensor still gets hot AF.
 

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I know you're probably chillin waiting on parts, but are there any updates?
I'm not a good YouTube guy (lately the ones I have watched have a gazillion commercials [really?]).

Hope you are enjoying your "down" time.

Just wanted you to know that I was thinking about you :)

Bob.
 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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8,897 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3,212 · (Edited)
Lol. Thanks bob.

Not much for updates. No Dart blocks exist anywhere. I’m going to weld my ls3 block and heads myself and take them to machine shop to get resurfaced (they can't weld it) and then reassemble everything.

Going to take a few weeks. Still shooting for aug 28th for a big No Prep Race.


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1991 VR4, 10:1 compression, mildly ported heads, stock turbos, 3" downpipe, 98 SL flashable ECU
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278 Posts
Hey Eric, you know Ty Peek that runs Peek performance out of Kentucky don't you? I know he posted a couple weeks back that he has a Dart block 427 and an LSX block 427 assembled and ready to go in stock. I think you are looking for just a bare block so you can use your rotating assembly, but thought I'd mention it just in case it would help you out.

 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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8,897 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3,214 ·
Hey Eric, you know Ty Peek that runs Peek performance out of Kentucky don't you? I know he posted a couple weeks back that he has a Dart block 427 and an LSX block 427 assembled and ready to go in stock. I think you are looking for just a bare block so you can use your rotating assembly, but thought I'd mention it just in case it would help you out.

good to know! I'll check it out. Thanks Lee.
 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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8,897 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3,215 ·
Big update,,credit card is hurting,, find a shop that can build the motor I really wanted without a 6mo lead time. Parts selection based on what is available in supply chain, but it's all spec'd to hold up to 1800whp.
  • 388ci bad boy build
  • Dart SHP LS Next Pro block (6 bolts head bolts per cyl)
  • Dart billet, center counter weight, crank, stock stroke
  • Callies Ultra H Rods
  • Diamond 4.125" pistons, (enough room for big valve heads for all the flow); ~11:1 compression
  • ARP main and head studs
  • 6 bolt MLS gaskets

  • Forced Performance CNC'd 6 bolt heads
  • BTR .660 lift springs with titanium retainers
  • "hopefully" swap out twin 7275s for twin 7875's
  • reuse Comp 250/258 (at .050") cam
All built to give me enough time to slam it in my car to make a big No Prep race Aug 27th with a $10k payout (i really need to win this lol).

This combo will rev to 8k+ without issue and should make around 575whp NA. The big bore and stock stroke will maximize turbine flow on turbos vs a 427 and not really lose anything to a 427 on HP, just make it at higher rpm and it's still 25cc bigger than my small bore stroker combo. It's the bad boy combo I wanted before Rocky Mountain Race Week.

416ci LS3 Longblock with custom cam will be for sale as soon as it's refreshed by machine shop. So if anyone wants a ~500whp+ NA motor or a good option for ~1300whp'ish boosted, let me know!!!
 

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LS3S
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2,235 Posts
WOWZA! That's going to be amazing. Ouch to the credit card for sure, hope you win the no prep! Certainly...prepped...for it (zing).

...How much for the 416? Is this the one that you welded?
 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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8,897 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3,217 ·
WOWZA! That's going to be amazing. Ouch to the credit card for sure, hope you win the no prep! Certainly...prepped...for it (zing).

...How much for the 416? Is this the one that you welded?
I didn't weld yet, but yeah, I will likely be welding it and have the performance machine shop resurface and "sign-off" that it's good. (sleeve is good and not much damage to block so i don't expect any issues as it's much better than the 5.3 aluminum block we welded a couple years ago with great success). To be upfront,,,I paid $7500 but I will likely ask $6500 for it and expect to get $6k. much less than that, I'd have to decide if it's worth just keeping as a back up motor; probably depends on if I win money in August or not lol.
 

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Senior **i.e. OLD** Member
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Expensive hobby!
How long before you get the engine (i.e. how long will you have to "play" with it?)

As usual, GOOD LUCK :)

Bob.
 
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