[familyMAN]

Looking bad ass. It’s doesn’t matter if it’s pretty. As long as it holds up to the absolute torment you’re about to give it, is all that matters. It does look way better with some paint on it. I admit, I actually had to look up what bump steer was. It was like the 3rd or 4th time I heard that term this week. Figured it might be important or something..lol

Yeah paint helps. Lol. Going to spray bomb the red calipers/knuckle next with some black too.

Yeah bumpsteer is important. For me, it’s mainly toe changes under power. Front end will raise some; need it to stay neutral. Interestingly, the way I have the suspension setup, there isn’t much camber change, which is pretty unique in a McPherson strut setup.

It’s not going to be a super handling setup though. Roll centers are all f’d up front and rear. I can change the rear, if I cared, but front, is what it is. But that’s okay. Just needs to drive thousands of miles and cover 1/8 mile in 5’ish seconds.

Disappointed that I couldn’t get the engine that I wanted in time and going to be around 1300hp instead of 16-1800. Oh well, can sort out the chassis and can get an aftermarket block add more power later.

Ran out of argon today but have one side, hotside done. Need to finish welding it though. I had planned to get all of the exhaust side done this weekend. Guess I’ll keep tearing down the “new” aluminum 5.3 block I got instead.

 

[familyMAN]

Had to check Hood fitment with intake since motor is moved forward and up. (Fits! With some persuasion lol). Also had to get the intercooler in place so I can start on hot side boost pipes.


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[Marshall Taylor]

You are certainly making progress. It’s great your calculations are working out after moving the motor up and forward. I’m looking forward to your YouTube videos when you have that Puppy up and barking. Good luck getting things finished up.

 

[FluffyCow]

Had to check Hood fitment with intake since motor is moved forward and up. (Fits! With some persuasion lol). Also had to get the intercooler in place so I can start on hot side boost pipes.


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Looks like the fogs will still fit with the IC piping going in the top. Nice.

Too bad I'm #notareal3s because I don't have fogs.

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[familyMAN]

Looks like the fogs will still fit with the IC piping going in the top. Nice.

Too bad I'm #notareal3s because I don't have fogs.

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Of course they still fit! They are basically my driving lights now anyway. lol.

It’s easy to fix your problem. Install OEM foglights!

 

[FluffyCow]

Of course they still fit! They are basically my driving lights now anyway. lol.

It’s easy to fix your problem. Install OEM foglights!

I'd need to go back to SMICs first. The front mount that is on here from prior owner has its piping where the fogs should be, and the FMIC kit was piecemeal to use a bunch of stock piping as well, so I can't just flip the core

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[familyMAN]

I'd flip core and make new piping.

 

[FluffyCow]

I'd flip core and make new piping.

You can weld. I can't, and don't have the machine to try. Lol

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[familyMAN]

You can weld. I can't, and don't have the machine to try. Lol

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find a local fab shop for stuff like that. That's what I did for my first FMIC kit ever (for 6g td05's) and refused to ditch foglights . I gave them a CX Racing 4" intercooler and a couple universal intercooler piping kits and $400 in labor later, I had a custom kit. I still outsource some things locally. Some things I can get done cheap enough it's not worth my time/frustration, other times, they have better tools so worth it to pay. (I designed my intercooler setup for LS, but I had them bend the plate for end tanks and weld since they have a bigger TIG which is needed for intercoolers that take all of your heat away)

Well, good news on car parts, spoke to Branik today. They received my shipment of axles (two 3S and two Colorado). He leaves for vaca tomorrow and wanted to chat today to make sure he understood what we needed to do. Good to go and he will complete them next week when he gets back from vaca. Going to do stock 3S axle bars for now and upgrade later. Want to make sure they fit first before spending $1k on 300M bars. Modifying stock is $200.

 

[OhioSpyderman]

I'm hoping this doesn't sound stupid Eric, but do you have some sort of go fund me thing to help with your build efforts?
Big spender I am, I would be willing to donate like $2 or $3 dollars....

Bob.

 

[familyMAN]

I'm hoping this doesn't sound stupid Eric, but do you have some sort of go fund me thing to help with your build efforts?
Big spender I am, I would be willing to donate like $2 or $3 dollars....

Bob.

Funded by my Only Fans page Lol.

Appreciate the offer, but can’t accept donations, just don’t feel right about it. I have accepted sponsorship money, since I feel I can offer value for the money. But that’s a mixed bag. Sometimes the extra baggage I put on myself to represent the companies, isn’t worth the parts/money.

Just the positive support is awesome.

Commenting on and sharing YT vids helps too

 

[familyMAN]

You guys are ahead of the video updates, but here’s the latest.

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[Marshall Taylor]

You guys are ahead of the video updates, but here’s the latest.

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Nice video. The Green Bean has been gray Tabby approved so you must be on the right track.

 

[familyMAN]

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[stealthII]

That’s sexy right there!!

 

[AdamVR4]

Is your front engine plate pinned to the block? If not I would be concerned about the plate passing through the gasket side of the water flanges. Without tight fitting pins, at peak torque, the engine likely overcomes friction and takes up the clearance in the plate's thru holes, shifting the gaskets on the sealing surfaces. Maybe it only moves once and stays sealed. Maybe it moves back and forth and reduces the gasket life in a way you'll never notice. Maybe it means frequent leaks. Maybe I'm a parranoid dumbass lol. Hopefully I'm wrong but I'd try to find a way to install pins or cut around the water flanges.

 

[familyMAN]

Is your front engine plate pinned to the block? If not I would be concerned about the plate passing through the gasket side of the water flanges. Without tight fitting pins, at peak torque, the engine likely overcomes friction and takes up the clearance in the plate's thru holes, shifting the gaskets on the sealing surfaces. Maybe it only moves once and stays sealed. Maybe it moves back and forth and reduces the gasket life in a way you'll never notice. Maybe it means frequent leaks. Maybe I'm a parranoid dumbass lol. Hopefully I'm wrong but I'd try to find a way to install pins or cut around the water flanges.

It's very tight on all of the water pump/pipe and also bolts through plate for alternator. It's a tight fit. May as well call it "pinned" especially since it's 6 oddly placed water pipe bolts plus a couple alternator bolts, plus friction as you noted. It's not a novel approach to mounting an LS; that said, it is still a bit weird for me too! lol I have tested with a floor jack many different spots on diff and motor and can jack up the front of car without any engine movement.

 

[familyMAN]

Water-pipe welding. Changing where my water lines run for water pump and to rear radiator.

Losing my fill tube on the front though so I’m going to have to figure something out there. Might be able to weld on a fill tube on top water pipe and still fit under the throttle body.

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[OhioSpyderman]

And he welds in his slippers.....

What a guy!

Bob. LOL

 

[FluffyCow]

And he welds in his slippers.....

What a guy!

Bob. LOL

Now that is some OSHA recognized safety footwear, for sure.

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