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93 NA ATX 3000gt DOHC
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Wondering if anybody knows of possible source for new OEM alternator, like dealer or supplier that might still have some inventory of new old stock still on hand for ’93 3000gt non-turbo DOHC. I tried many Mitsubishi dealers including Gherry Hill Mitsubishi and all showed “Discontinued” as expected. I also checked 3sx.com and they only sell non OEM remanufactured alternators same as regular auto parts stores.

Just helped replaced remanufactured one on @UGoSlo93GT car and it lasted all of maybe ~ 40 miles before it quit. As many here might know they take bit to replace on 3000gt’s and doing it several times because of poor workmanship with alternator rebuilds is not desired.
 

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93 NA ATX 3000gt DOHC
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm using a Montero alternator in my 92, I'm not sure how exact it is but thought I'd mention there may be some other models that share the same part? Which may make one easier to find.
Thanks lawdogg, I'll definitely look into that, but if not Mitsubishi unit not sure it would be any better than a new Bosch alternator built to fit 3000gt's.
Here ya go. Don't know if it's factory new or mitsu rebuilt. PN M150657D
Very interesting oldmaninsaline thanks, but after looking at it closely the red #1 footnote marker says "This price excludes a refundable manufacturer's core charge. Add the part to your cart to see the core charge", which makes me suspect it is a rebuilt unit as new Manufacture items doesn't usually include a core charge.
 

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@white93gt Here is a thought...

I have taken many various alternators apart, to do bearings. Never have found a bad stator. ( Yes on the 260 amp Niehoff units at work, but thats a whole different animal ) Not saying it dioesn't happen. .Diodes, not often and with diodes they usually still work or partially...Most have only bad bushes or some kind of bad contact. .. but on mine ( ours ) specifically the regulator has a ground path from a aluminum tab on the regulator to the tab on the rear casing. one of the screws for the regulator holds that tight. My alternator no workie. Cleaned the inside back of the case tab - all corroded-with some scotchbrite. same with the tab on the regulator. Tiny dab of electrical grease and reinstalled that. Chucked up the rotor and with a dead smooth file cleaned up the slip rings, then a bit of 400 grit. New bearings.

I dont remember a full field tab to bypass the regulator like a GM unit.

I prefer to try. Its already dead, nothing to loose. .Worst part was getting the pin to hold the brushes, they wanted to grab the rotor on the instal.

In my notes I noted to keep the pulley on and take the rotor out with the front cover.
Dont try to pry or pull on the stator to separate it from the rear. it is soldered to the diode bridge which is attached to the rear cover. They must stay together.
I measured 3.3 ohm on the rotor slp rings.

edit:
just did a quick look on Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Marketfound a bunch in what I think I remember your area is.

P
 

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1992 3000GT VR4
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2,191 Posts
I've had both my alternators that were of course remans
Carquest / NAPA reman... alternator was local to me picked it up after delivered to local Advanced auto parts store with warranty
Beats the hassel of returning online more down time
13 years on the last one
 

· Curmudgeon
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5,999 Posts
Don, where did you get that alternator?
Many of the chain stores get away with selling absolute crap with a "lifetime warranty" and easy returns.
As Chang noted the more reputable stores like Napa and Carquest might not offer the same warranty but usually sell a more reliable product.
You could try to find a local rebuilder but at least around here you'd have better luck looking for a pay phone... :unsure:
 

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93 NA ATX 3000gt DOHC
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
@white93gt Here is a thought...

I have taken many various alternators apart, to do bearings. Never have found a bad stator. ( Yes on the 260 amp Niehoff units at work, but thats a whole different animal ) Not saying it dioesn't happen. .Diodes, not often and with diodes they usually still work or partially...Most have only bad bushes or some kind of bad contact. .. but on mine ( ours ) specifically the regulator has a ground path from a aluminum tab on the regulator to the tab on the rear casing. one of the screws for the regulator holds that tight. My alternator no workie. Cleaned the inside back of the case tab - all corroded-with some scotchbrite. same with the tab on the regulator. Tiny dab of electrical grease and reinstalled that. Chucked up the rotor and with a dead smooth file cleaned up the slip rings, then a bit of 400 grit. New bearings.

I dont remember a full field tab to bypass the regulator like a GM unit.

I prefer to try. Its already dead, nothing to loose. .Worst part was getting the pin to hold the brushes, they wanted to grab the rotor on the instal.

In my notes I noted to keep the pulley on and take the rotor out with the front cover.
Dont try to pry or pull on the stator to separate it from the rear. it is soldered to the diode bridge which is attached to the rear cover. They must stay together.
I measured 3.3 ohm on the rotor slp rings.

edit:
just did a quick look on Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Marketfound a bunch in what I think I remember your area is.

P
Thanks @paul93VR4, I’ve also replaced brushes, bearings and such in alternators. I suspect the problem with the original alternator is with the regulator (also discontinued from Mitsubishi). Alternator didn’t completely quit and turn on battery fault light indicator, car just didn’t start one morning with a low battery and he replaced battery. He came up to my house same day, mentioned having to replace battery and also mentioned he had noticed a lower than normal voltage on dash voltage gauge while diving previous day. Which set off an alarm bell in my head.

We tested battery voltage with engine idling and it was only mid 12v range, if we increased rpm’s to ~ 2k it would increase to 14v as it should but wouldn’t do that at idle. As we increased load headlights, fog lights, A/C, etc., the voltage would lower at idle progressively depending amount of load increased, lowest at idle was maybe ~ 11v. At that point increasing rpm’s to ~3k (maybe higher even) voltage would only reach mid 12v range. So he never got the battery indicator in gauge cluster and at times driving in day time (no lights on) with engine rpm’s above idle, his center dash volt gauge showed normal in 14v range.

I've had both my alternators that were of course remans
Carquest / NAPA reman... alternator was local to me picked it up after delivered to local Advanced auto parts store with warranty
Beats the hassel of returning online more down time
13 years on the last one
Thanks @Change oil, the replacement remanufactured alternator was Ultima brand from local O’Reilly auto part store with warranty, just disheartening to have to redo because of poor rebuild.

Don, where did you get that alternator?
Many of the chain stores get away with selling absolute crap with a "lifetime warranty" and easy returns.
As Chang noted the more reputable stores like Napa and Carquest might not offer the same warranty but usually sell a more reliable product.
You could try to find a local rebuilder but at least around here you'd have better luck looking for a pay phone... :unsure:
Hey Steve, came from O’Reilly auto parts as I told Chang above. There was a local builder for alternators, starters, etc. in area years ago, but haven’t checked if still in business :unsure:. I could most likely repair it, if I could get the voltage regulator (discontinued) and suspect the local rebuild service would have same problem. Also I did look for that pay phone, didn’t find it, must be (discontinued also) :D.

Edit: WAIT! ..... I did find that pay phone.... here it is :ROFLMAO:
 

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Your best bet if you want a OEM unit is to find a used one on ebay and completely disassemble it , clean and or replace parts that wear, like the front and rear bearing, the slip rings the regulator brushes. The rotor and stator rarely go bad but would need be tested. The rectifier check for open ,shorted or high voltage drop. Now days it's going to be hard to find a supplier of new OEM. What you will find is suppliers of new units, not reman not reburbished. That is what I would go with if replacing my alternator. If you want a good "all new unit" search for oegparts on ebay.
 

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Local rebuilders are the way to go especially when it is an old guy that has specialized in solely electronics their entire life lol. I usually have local 3S'ers get their OE starters and alternators done that way here. Bonus points include communication from teardown and inspection especially with heat damaged components (those with inadequate heat management) + refinishing for that extra touch 🤌

Other options are getting your OE core "upgraded" or just buying a "new" aftermarket but upgraded unit outright e.g. Iraggi or Power Bastards but YMMV. Occasionally, if needed, I will recommend Duralast Gold (not standard) because of the better reman process and included testing/spec sheet + retail chain warranty; this has been going well for three people with starter and alt. replacements.

-sent from my Galaxy S22 Ultra
 
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Thanks lawdogg, I'll definitely look into that, but if not Mitsubishi unit not sure it would be any better than a new Bosch alternator built to fit 3000gt's.

Very interesting oldmaninsaline thanks, but after looking at it closely the red #1 footnote marker says "This price excludes a refundable manufacturer's core charge. Add the part to your cart to see the core charge", which makes me suspect it is a rebuilt unit as new Manufacture items doesn't usually include a core charge.
Yes, it's a rebuild, however I would surmise that it uses Mitsu parts rather than a supplier. I imagine a phone call would clear it up.

BTW, I found that link in a recent post on 3si.
 
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93 NA ATX 3000gt DOHC
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Local rebuilders are the way to go especially when it is an old guy that has specialized in solely electronics their entire life lol. I usually have local 3S'ers get their OE starters and alternators done that way here. Bonus points include communication from teardown and inspection especially with heat damaged components (those with inadequate heat management) + refinishing for that extra touch 🤌

Other options are getting your OE core "upgraded" or just buying a "new" aftermarket but upgraded unit outright e.g. Iraggi or Power Bastards but YMMV. Occasionally, if needed, I will recommend Duralast Gold (not standard) because of the better reman process and included testing/spec sheet + retail chain warranty; this has been going well for three people with starter and alt. replacements.

-sent from my Galaxy S22 Ultra
Thanks Alan, I just finished search for local alternator, starter, etc. repair service I used many years ago and they’re no longer in business. Other than purchasing new OEM parts for me to replace which looks like the only part unavailable is voltage regulator (what I think is the problem) or complete Mitsubishi OEM alternator thru some online supplier, he decided to go with reman units from local auto parts until we get one that works correctly (hopefully the next one). The one that failed was a Ultima that had to be shipped to store or home in our area, Duralast Gold you mention is being considered but might try Carquest alternator from the Advance Auto since it’s the only one available now at all auto part stores in area.

Yes, it's a rebuild, however I would surmise that it uses Mitsu parts rather than a supplier. I imagine a phone call would clear it up.

BTW, I found that link in a recent post on 3si.
Thanks oldmaninsaline, but trying to avoid purchasing online with reman units, and I'm not totally comfortable with that one being all OEM parts since it seems no body can buy a new OEM voltage regulator for one nowadays.
 

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1992 3000GT VR4
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I use built to last DOO DOO last at work
O Reeeeleeez are so so .... 9 times out of 10 they don't have the part on hand ....

Having a local guy rebuild it or even get it to put out higher amperage is a better chance you'll have something that's works perfectly ....

Some of these remanufactures don't even bench test ther items anymore .... which would cut out the down time completely out

Me and POWER BASTARDS had it out ....
Shipped that paper weight back
Got my money back from purchase as well
Those guys I would NOT recommend for high output alternators.....
It's bad when your battery is discharging when a fresh brand new 110 at idle 220amp at 1200rpm alternator does absolutely nothing but look pretty
 
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