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Discussion Starter #1
Just wanted to get some opinions before I order.

I am a set it and forget it kind of guy. Adjustability and change only causes problems for me lol.

At first I was going to do the turbosmart MBC and turbosmart boost guage. Now I am looking at the Hallman pro kit MBC. Turbosmart seems to have issues in either quality or people selling fake MBC's. The gauge is a gauge Im sure and theres no issues with it. Also the prices for turbosmart mbc's seems to be all over the map from $30 to $100+. Just figured I would ask before ordering if theres another route to go.
 

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I have used the Turbosmart "Boost-Tee" MBC on 3-4 3/S, and it works well - definitely more Hallman installations though including my own. The TS is physically smaller if you want to be more discreet about it, but the included mounting bracket is not as "nice" as the Hallman. It is just another "pick your poison" decision.

RE "another route"... depending on how much boost you were planning on running, you can always just upgrade the WG's instead. Aaron "drweldin" previously offered the 0.8bar upgrade as an alternative to Forge's billet WGA (various spring options, such as 15#). Obviously, this is a more expensive route, but it both looks nicer (subjective) and is as simple of a solution as possible. Just my two cents...

-Alan

//edit// Adjustability aside, why not consider the TS e-Boost series? It is very similar to the AEM Tru-Boost and other EBC's.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, so Ill probably go with the Hallman.

Reason for not going that route is I dont need some electronic that ill just set and forget when a manual boost controller will do fine. I have no reason to adjust boost after its dialed in that I can think of, maybe there are reasons I dont know about though. I have a blitz dual sbc sitting here, I just dont want to mess with it!
 

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I get you don't want adjustability, but why not go with a LCDBC? Granted a LCDBC and a MAC 3 port is a bit more expensive but the LCDBC is a great product made specifically for our platform. It reads OBD1 CELs, allows logging, can see realtime info like injector duty cycle, knock, etc. It's homescreen shows boost, knock, and O2 sensor information all in one convenient little screen. Install is a breeze, you just plug it in to the OBD port, give it a ignition 12v source from the fuse box, and run a vacuum line to it and hook up the boost controller. You don't have to cut your cluster to mount the screen either, Blackstealth makes a steering wheel mount(what I use), and coin tray mount, and a few others.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I get you don't want adjustability, but why not go with a LCDBC? Granted a LCDBC and a MAC 3 port is a bit more expensive but the LCDBC is a great product made specifically for our platform. It reads OBD1 CELs, allows logging, can see realtime info like injector duty cycle, knock, etc. It's homescreen shows boost, knock, and O2 sensor information all in one convenient little screen. Install is a breeze, you just plug it in to the OBD port, give it a ignition 12v source from the fuse box, and run a vacuum line to it and hook up the boost controller. You don't have to cut your cluster to mount the screen either, Blackstealth makes a steering wheel mount(what I use), and coin tray mount, and a few others.
I like that idea. Do I still need a boost guage? Ill message @BlackStealth

Man, I wish I wouldve just bought all this stuff from the Previous owner lol. He had LCDBC and hks hypermax coilovers...the coilovers I already bought new and are on the car again, now Ill probably end up with the LCDBC lol. Damnit, Couldve saved some money!
 

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No, the display that comes with it shows your boost. You just need the LCDBC and a 3 port MAC/AEM boost controller. I've attached what it looks like. It has a little rotary knob for you to scroll through the different screens that you can mount pretty much wherever you want. If you search the forum there should be a thread that he sells them out of. He also has a new OLED screen that's black and white, but I like the LCD since it matches that 90s JDM amber atheistic.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Awesome! I like that. I talked to him and Im pretty sure Ill be buying one. I actually got a strange burst of energy last night and I am in the middle of putting my Arc-2 back in the car that the previous owner took out.
 

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No, the display that comes with it shows your boost. You just need the LCDBC and a 3 port MAC/AEM boost controller. I've attached what it looks like. It has a little rotary knob for you to scroll through the different screens that you can mount pretty much wherever you want. If you search the forum there should be a thread that he sells them out of. He also has a new OLED screen that's black and white, but I like the LCD since it matches that 90s JDM amber atheistic.
Add some coolant to your overflow tank :)
 

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287153


287154


I used to confuse those also.
 

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Add some coolant to your overflow tank :)
The sensor was bad... and is now unplugged, since the stock overflow tank is completely gone. It won't fit with my FMIC piping. Gatorade bottle is currently pulling overflow duty until I decide to pony up for a real overflow.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, so now on the fuel side of things im still confused.

660 injectors, supra pump, hotwire kit...thats all I know for sure is going in. Do I need a aem afpr? fuel psi guage, fuel rail loop kit? I assume they can not hurt but it seems like everytime I spend money lately I find I could spend it better somewhere else. Like this AEM AFPR I bought I could've put money towards a wideband instead lol. Apparently the aem afpr cant hurt, or the fuel rail, and to me its pointless to have a AFPR without a gauge to check what its doing...right?
 

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Wideband is essential if you are going to be changing your fueling setup (injectors, pump, etc). I honestly wouldnt even install different injectors without getting a wideband first or you really have no idea what is going on. How are you going to tune without one?

Most people say you want a AFPR once you hotwire since you can overrun the stock one, but that might not be a huge issue with just the supra pump. I dont think you need the fuel rail loop kit with your relatively modest injector size and pump. I would agree that you would want a gauge if you are going to install the AFPR.

Personally i would just install the injectors, pump and hotwire, and then get/install a wideband and see where you are at.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So I dont think my ATR exhaust has a spot for a wideband which sucks. So ill have to deal with that.

What are your guys thoughts on installing injectors that were cleaned and have been sitting since september of 2016? lol. RC engineering cleaned them they are trying to get me the results but they may not have them.
 

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You should be able to go to any exhaust shop and have them weld in a bung for the wideband.
 

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Yea, Im not to worried about that, I already know who will be getting my money for that. I may have them do some stuff to this ATR exhaust, Im not sure I can just unbolt the cat but I havent even looked.
 

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So I dont think my ATR exhaust has a spot for a wideband which sucks. So ill have to deal with that.

What are your guys thoughts on installing injectors that were cleaned and have been sitting since september of 2016? lol. RC engineering cleaned them they are trying to get me the results but they may not have them.
Depends how they were stored. But honestly, i would just have them cleaned again. I dealt with a lot of issues, which ended up being horribly clogged injectors. You can read about that here: PSA: How bad are your fuel injectors? Get them cleaned!
 

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Discussion Starter #18

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They were stored in bubble wrap and have little red plastic covers over the business end.
If you wanted you could take an injector pigtail, a 9V battery, and a can of brake cleaner to see how each one is squirting. Likely they are all functioning fine but you can test it. If you decide to not end up using them I would recommend pickling them with WD40. You do the same thing pulsing the injector but instead WD40 will be inside with the internals so they won’t rust sitting. It’s totally up to you if you have them flowed again to see if there is any variance. Since you won’t be making a crazy amount of power you can probably test them yourself, throw them in the car, and just monitor how it’s running.

As far as the AFPR I would probably just sell it and put the money towards a wideband. The AEM X series is really nice and Rvenge Performance had them on sale. You won’t need to upgrade the fuel rail loop. Past 600whp on E-85 there will be a half point AFR difference between banks due to the rear going lean but that’s a lot of fuel flow.

The Supra fuel pump won’t overrun the stock FPR as much as the Walbro 400 pumps but you can tune out the idle easily enough. I have all stock fuel system with a Walbro 450 fuel pump and have gotten my car to idle at 23:1 before. It’s not hard to target 14.7:1.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok, So I am worthless and I dont want to go hang around parts stores and be the problem customer. Anyone kind enough to tell me what size vac hose and T I would need to hook up my LCDBC into the factory vac lines? First I want to run the LCDBC with the factory boost solenoid to see what pressure Im at before installing the new mac 3 port and hopefully doing a vacuum reduction/EGR delete at the same time. It never fails for me, I go to the parts store to buy hose or adaptors or vac caps and ALWAYS end up with the wrong ones.
 
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