Mitsubishi 3000GT & Dodge Stealth Forum banner

81 - 99 of 99 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,515 Posts
Bluemax, unfortunately some have not included shipping details in paypal..
Oh, OK. I thought one of the parts of the Paypal signup process was verification which included addresses and such. Been quite a while though, so I don't know if my memory might be off, or if there have been policy changes.


Max
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
981 Posts
Itallo

Just let me know how much extra I need to send

André
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,347 Posts
Yes, i bought a couple extra sets...just paypal me 440.00 +20.00 shiping [email protected] please send as gift or include fees..i should have them by tomorrow and will ship by the end of the week..
thanks
Sorry, just read this. Will be sending you the money on Friday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,515 Posts
Picked em up from USPS yesterday (missed the delivery attempt on Tuesday). These are some BEEFY SOB's. I know the OTS ARP's have more clamping force than stock when properly torqued but I'm betting these can hold even better (not that I'm planning on going that high, but I like design headroom). Thanks!


Max

P.S. has anyone done this and is it inadvisable for some reason I haven't thought of?

1 of the advantages to the stock headbolts vs aftermarket head studs is that you can use them while installing/removing the head in-car. Once head studs are installed, they generally would require removal of the block to get the rear heads off, because the studs tend to stay in the block restricting the angle of removal of the heads.

Is it an option to use blue or even red locktite on the nut of the studs after checking proper torque, before final torquing procedure (to check that it doesn't potentially alter the friction and thus, resultant bolt stretch)? That way, once the locktite hardens it potentially effectively turns the stud into a bolt. This would potentially allow future rear head removal without necessitating pulling the engine.

P.P.S. noticed that the studs have an allen hole for using an allen wrench, but I don't know if the hole will hold up to the torque necessary to remove the stud after everything is fully torqued down? If it is, then the locktite idea is unnecessary.


Max
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,302 Posts
Picked em up from USPS yesterday (missed the delivery attempt on Tuesday). These are some BEEFY SOB's. I know the OTS ARP's have more clamping force than stock when properly torqued but I'm betting these can hold even better (not that I'm planning on going that high, but I like design headroom). Thanks!


Max

P.S. has anyone done this and is it inadvisable for some reason I haven't thought of?

1 of the advantages to the stock headbolts vs aftermarket head studs is that you can use them while installing/removing the head in-car. Once head studs are installed, they generally would require removal of the block to get the rear heads off, because the studs tend to stay in the block restricting the angle of removal of the heads.

Is it an option to use blue or even red locktite on the nut of the studs after checking proper torque, before final torquing procedure (to check that it doesn't potentially alter the friction and thus, resultant bolt stretch)? That way, once the locktite hardens it potentially effectively turns the stud into a bolt. This would potentially allow future rear head removal without necessitating pulling the engine.

P.P.S. noticed that the studs have an allen hole for using an allen wrench, but I don't know if the hole will hold up to the torque necessary to remove the stud after everything is fully torqued down? If it is, then the locktite idea is unnecessary.


Max
Blue et all, please do not attempt to use locktite on the studs.. you can install the heads with the studs without removing the block just install the heads on dowls and then install studs one by one using just a small coat of motor oil on the block thread side and then the lube I sent on the nut thread side. The Allen head is what you use to install the studs, only tighten the studs in the block via the Allen wrench hand tight..no need for more then that. I will upload torque specs after this response..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,302 Posts
Ok, so here is the Torque Spec for the A1 head Stud kits;
1) Using old ARP Moly Lube --- 105 lb-ft
2) Using 30w engine oil --- 125 lb-ft
3) Using International Compound # 2 (supplied) --- 105 lb-ft

Installation Instructions:
1) Make sure the stud/block/nut threads are clean
2) Install the studs in the block using motor oil on the block thread (hand tight 5-10 lb-ft) via hex
3) Lubricate top stud thread/nut thread and washer surface/washer flats with preferred Lubricant (suggest International Compound #2)
4) Torque studs to 60-70 lb-ft in the OEM torque sequence 3, yes 3, times. This helps break in the thread surfaces.
5) Final Torque: Using old ARP Moly or International Compound #2
1. Loosen the nuts completely
2. Re-lubricate the top of the studs, washer and nut (recommend International compound #2)
3. Torque in three steps:
a. Torque Studs to 40 lb-ft in the OEM Torque Sequence
b. Torque Studs to 70 lb-ft in the OEM Torque Sequence
c. Finally Torque Studs to 105 lb-ft in the OEM Torque Sequence

**NOTE: If you use motor oil use 55, 85, 125 in the three steps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,347 Posts
I just sent the money for a set plus shipping. Since a direct signature is required, I'll pm you my work address because I won't be able to sign for it otherwise.
 

·
eff it, cut 'em up
Joined
·
1,066 Posts
wow so i can't believe i'm asking after the fact for a second time, having done the same for round 1... but do you happen to have any extra sets leftover? friend of mine is asking (ja3gt). thanks in advance italo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
Hi,

Just realised I should get a set of these head studs. Do any of our vendors stock these or are they group buy only? If anyone has purchased and is not intending using them let me know.
I'd also like to see a picture of these, if anyone has.

Thanks
Ewan
 
81 - 99 of 99 Posts
Top