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Discussion Starter #101
I use a thick putty knife/scraper. It's thick enough to pry with, but thin enough to get between the pan and block. You can straighten out the oil pan flange after it's off.

It's not graceful, but it works. The grey RTV fills in the gaps. Note that you use the grey, not the red.
The red RTV is strange... I really don't think my father ever had the oil pan off the car. It should have came from the factory with black, right?

Maybe the dealership that replaced the drivetrain components back in 2000 after the transfer case locked up pulled it. They might have had a look at the bearings to make sure there wasn't any sudden stoppage damage, then sealed it back up with whatever they had on hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Here’s lots of pictures of the oil pan removal and repair (since many of the old links around here are dead). For cutting the old RTV I found this carpet cutting knife from Harbor Freight for five bucks. It worked great. I have plenty of straight blade holders/scrapers, but none of them really worked for getting any decent leverage along the back edge as well as this thing did.


The pan was a bigger pain in the ass to pull than I thought it would be. I thought clearance wouldn’t be an issue since I had removed both driver’s and passenger’s side subframe pieces as well as the starter and the flywheel cover plate. I didn’t realize that it was the pickup tube and the girdle that protrudes down into the pan that really hung it up. I’ve seen some other posts suggest doing some practice dry runs before trying to install it with the RTV on, otherwise you’ll keep smearing it around. Something I’m going to try for certain.
Once removed, I could see that my pickup screen has been flattened a bit from the dent.


Here’s the pan as removed, and a good shot of the dent.



I banged out the dent using a rounded block of wood with the pan sitting on a rolled up towel. A couple good hits and it had a nice dished profile again. I cleaned out all the old RTV bead by taking it all down to the flange surface with a scour pad and Gunk parts cleaner. Then I used a wooden kebob stick to pick all the stuff out from the trough. Once the big pieces were out I could clean the little remaining bits out with the scour pad.


For the outside, I sanded all the loose rust and paint off, scuffed the good paint, and treated the rust with Ospho before painting.


I finished it off with some high temp Dupont. I thought it would be a nice gloss black match to the original paint, but this stuff has some ceramic dust in it, so it has a little bit of a different shimmer than what I started out with. Looks just fine for the engine bottom side.


I took the opportunity to clean and respray the driver’s side subframe piece as well.


Which is all the work for this shift. I want to give the paint a good amount of time to cure before I have to handle it and get it into place. Fingers crossed I can do so without scraping it up too much.
I covered the bottom end by screwing in a clean trash bag so I don’t have to worry about dirt blowing around in the garage. I figure I’ll keep this in place and gradually pull it down as I clean the block flange before the pan in put back in, in the hopes that it’ll keep all the old RTV out from the crank/girdle.


I’m starting to see some light at the end of the tunnel. I’m at least done tearing down parts at this point; it’s now a matter of getting everything reassembled so I can get it off the stands. I still have to gut my precats before they go back on, but both are out of the car so I’ll have easy access to do them. The forward engine mount and gearbox mount still have to go in, but I’ve torn so much of the underside and battery box area apart that I have very easy access to those too. I’m getting there…
 

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Discussion Starter #103
Also, gasket part numbers that I've found from around the forum:

Oil Pan Turbo Oil Return Gasket: MR258477
Oil Strainer Pickup Tube Gasket: MD183239

Cherry Hill has them in stock for a few bucks each, but searching for them on their site was proving painful. You don't have to pull the oil strainer pickup tube to rework the oil pan, but I did because I wanted to give it a good flush and clean.
 

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My car is a money pit
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Also, gasket part numbers that I've found from around the forum:

Oil Pan Turbo Oil Return Gasket: MR258477
Oil Strainer Pickup Tube Gasket: MD183239

Cherry Hill has them in stock for a few bucks each, but searching for them on their site was proving painful. You don't have to pull the oil strainer pickup tube to rework the oil pan, but I did because I wanted to give it a good flush and clean.
Super critical you get a good seal on the pickup tube gasket, and the oil pan baffle needs to be a good distance from the pickup screen too. Both of those can cause cavitation in your oil pump.

3sx has the gaskets too.
 

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Discussion Starter #105 (Edited)
Lots to update finally…
By the end of October I had the pan reinstalled and did a bunch more cleaning up under there. Doing practice pan installs without any RTV on and having two studs to guide the pan down the last quarter of an inch was a big help.


Before Christmas I had the precats gutted. This was hell on my drill using a spade bit, but I had both of them out of the car, so at least I didn’t have to deal with a bunch of debris in my face.





Getting the rear precat installed along with its two heatshields and the oxygen sensor was a real bitch to do with the limited access between the engine and the firewall. Between putting parts and hardware in from either the top or the bottom, inevitably, I would get something placed, only to find that I had to take it out in order to get enough access for another part. I kept scratching down notes as I went, rearranging the assembly order as I had to until I had it all set. Here’s what I came up with if anyone else finds themselves trying to shoehorn in the same parts:

1. From above, place heat protector D (31) and move out of the way.
2. From below, place left bank cat (34), hang on studs but do not fasten.
3. From above, place heat protector E (35). Move left bank cat (34) as needed to attach heat protector E (35) by the top bolt LOOSELY.
4. From below, fasten lower bolt to attach heat protector E (35), and tighten.
5. Replace left bank cat (34) on studs.
6. From above, tighten top bolt to attach heat protector E (35) to the left bank cat (34).
7. From above, fasten front, top, and rear bolts to attach left bank cat (34). Move heat protector D (31) as necessary to gain access. Tighten three bolts.
8. From below, fasten bottom bolt to attach left bank cat (34). Move heat protector D (31) as necessary to gain access. Tighten bolt.
9. From above, install O2 sensor (30) and tighten.
10. From below, position heat protector D (31) and attach bottom and side bolt loosely.
11. From above, fasten top bolt to attach heat protector D (31). Tighten bolt.
12. From below, tighten heat protector D (31) bottom and side bolts.

After Christmas I had a bunch of studs and bolt fragments to drill out on the downpipe. A few of the hangar bolts snapped on me, which weren’t too bad because I could at least work on those with the pipe up on the bench. But the two large fragments that were left in the flange that attach to the main cat were horrible! I burnt up just about every bit I had.



I kept the left bolt drilling pretty concentric with the center, but the right one walked on me a little, which just got worse and worse as I stepped up drill sizes. By the end I had a pretty ovalized hole that I had to deal with. I found a good use for my Harbor Freight center punch to get the last remaining bit out.
https://youtu.be/mmt2p7SFaqI

Don’t get me wrong, this connection is a freaking back-alley abortion for sure. But this had to get finished. It’s sealed, and will hopefully get my by until I can have a full exhaust fabricated.
 

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Discussion Starter #106
Before the exhaust or engine/gearbox stays went back in, the last thing to R&R on the bottom side was the front mount. I had plenty of room now thanks to all the components I pulled. That’s three-for-three that were trashed.



After that I got to spend some time back at the bench. I took an evening shift to disassemble, clean, and reassemble the Lobro joint on the propeller shaft using the Mitsubishi boot kit (PN MB837572). There is a DSMer name Jafromobile who made an awesome guide on YouTube. This was real time consuming, but between the factory books and this video, it was all pretty straight forward.
https://youtu.be/yWFnfhHTIeE







 

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Discussion Starter #107
Once that was done, I was able to get the two rear section installed by the carrier bearings and rear differential attachment. I kept the front section and transfer case out for the time being to get the driver’s side half shaft, gearbox/engine stays, starter, and flywheel shield installed.




 

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Discussion Starter #108 (Edited)
Next up was EGR delete courtesy of Ninja Performance. I’m sure I’ll do the full vacuum line reduction one of these days, but for now I’m pressing on…


 

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Discussion Starter #109
The passenger side mount had real easy access once you cleared the wires away from the top. The four bolts are nice and easy to get to from the fender. Between a bunch of extensions and a universal joint, I was able to pull them all without taking the passenger’s side wheel off.


I ordered up a new battery harness as well from Ninja Performance since my original one was pretty beat up (the negative lug had cracked and was replaced with a thin rim type of connector). Mitsubishi PN MR159718.

 

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Discussion Starter #110
On to that bent c-shaped fuel line… I ordered a new replacement line from 3SX.com, but it never made it to install because I was unable to get the old out.


I cut the c-shaped portion off so I could put a socket directly on the large nut. I tried my best to brace the backup wrench with plates and box bar stock, but in the end I couldn’t keep the rear end fitting from twisting while pulling on the c-shaped line.


I ended up adding another kink to the main hard line going back to the tank sending unit. Even with all that force, the c-shaped line fitting still didn’t break loose, so I’m convinced it was never going to come off.


Derek at 3SX was a big help… I got onto chat with him and he pointed me to the next line I would need, which was a full-length stainless braided line to replace the factory hard line. They were real cool about taking my unused c-shaped line back w/o any fees too, which was nice. Their replacement stainless line runs from the tank fitting straight into the bottom of the filter, so the c-shaped portion is no longer needed.


The line has a lot of slack if you run it along the factory route, so I printed up a brace to attach it to so it won’t kink over time. The OEM plastic guard is too small to hold the stainless braided line inside of it, so I had to attach it temporarily with zip ties until I can design and print a new tray to run the full length down the passenger side. I’ll have to make a larger channel to hold all the break, steering, and fuel lines.


 

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Discussion Starter #111
I’ve got more to update, but wanted to get this much posted at least. I was finally able to drop the car off the stands, out of the garage, and give it a wash!



Unfortunately it’s still running poorly –I figured the motor mounts tripping the knock sensor was a long shot. All of this work is stuff that had to be done anyway, but I’m still experiencing a lot of drivability issues. I’ll post up some more info. on that later on once I get some time to work on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #113
Nice update! Check out Skillards Fuel Line Cover!
https://skillard.com/products/3000gt-stealth-fuel-line-cover

Also, post up some logs. I'll bet you have some airflow problems causing issues with running. Shouldn't be hard to figure out!
Thanks for the link! I've never heard of that shop before, but that's awesome they make an aluminum replacement. I'll have to put it on the list. The photo I show with the lines uncovered was an early shot... I did manage to get my old plastic shroud back up on the car, but the stainless line is tied to the outside of it.

I'll get some logs going next time I wrench on the car too. They should be easier to sift through than the ones I posted from months ago now that I know how to turn field on and off and set EvoScan to English units. I think they're all still going to be the same as before though... big knock under high load, and intermittent IAT readings. Those seem to be the big things I noticed in all of my earlier logs.
 

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My car is a money pit
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Thanks for the link! I've never heard of that shop before, but that's awesome they make an aluminum replacement. I'll have to put it on the list. The photo I show with the lines uncovered was an early shot... I did manage to get my old plastic shroud back up on the car, but the stainless line is tied to the outside of it.

I'll get some logs going next time I wrench on the car too. They should be easier to sift through than the ones I posted from months ago now that I know how to turn field on and off and set EvoScan to English units. I think they're all still going to be the same as before though... big knock under high load, and intermittent IAT readings. Those seem to be the big things I noticed in all of my earlier logs.
Ohhhh I remember your logs now. I didn't go back through the thread. I know people say leak test, and I'm sure you did, but check it again!

That plastic shroud gets brittle over time. Mine fell apart when I tried to remove it. Skillard makes some really nice stuff, and his has slots cut in it so mud and other crap can fall out.
 

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Discussion Starter #115 (Edited)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1v9G5KOreV75CPN78pPSI0xPIIXfkxANx/view?usp=drivesdk

Here’s a spreadsheet logging two runs –each is on its own tab. Sorry they’re pretty long, but I was mainly looking to watch how my IATs reacted as the car warmed up, as well as watching it heat soak at red lights and cool down once I got back up to speed. I color coded TPS so that full throttle is red, this way you can scroll quickly and look for red regions to find the higher load areas of the run. I’m running a Chrome ECU with the stock 2G FED flash that it came with.

I think I have a bunch of possible issues that are still causing pretty crappy starting and drivability:

1) CEL for Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction.

2) Hot start/poor idle issues.

3) Inconsistent acceleration at load (perhaps when transitioning from open to closed loop operation).

1) I’m still getting a persistent CEL for Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction. I thought I had this one licked, because I was seeing off-the-wall IATs of like -60F on some days and then regular temps on other days. I found some loose wires near the connector my father used for tapping in his turbo timer -which was good because the timer was getting power, but it was not functioning. Once I re-seated all the leads and plugged it back in, it went back to normal operation, and since then I haven’t logged any weird negative temps. Looking at these two runs, I think my IAT is responding reasonably. Both runs occurred back to back. The first was a cold start, and the second was a hot restart after about 21 minutes of the car sitting. I’m running a K&N cone filter that is open to the engine bay. The filter is new and has not been oiled yet, so I think it’s unlikely that I’ve fouled my IAT thermocouple in the MAF. I’m running a cheap replacement MAF that I got from Amazon. When I first installed it that car ran amazingly, but a day later my problems came back. I’m waiting on a rear turbo IC pipe seal from 3SX to seal up a small leak I have there, and I know I have a few other small ones that I’ve found testing my system at 10psi. I need to remake my pressure adapter though as I don’t think it’s going to hold much pressure past that. The throttle body has never been overhauled, so I’m assuming I have leaks at the shaft seals as well.

2) There are two plots I made that show engine RPM and TPS during startup. I highlighted in yellow the approximate region where the starter seems to be spinning the motor before it was running under its own power. Notice how the cold start lit right up, but the hot start didn’t catch until I gave it some throttle (the TPS line traces to the secondary axis on the right). Both plots are the same scale for easy comparison. I need to route a fuel pressure gauge temporarily into the cabin so I can watch pressure while starting and driving to see if my pump and FPR are keeping up adequate pressure. If not, this could be giving me starting issues and driveability issues as noted in 3). Also something I noticed is that my idle position switch isn’t tripping 1 at all except for the last line recorded in each log.

3) My fuel pump is going from 1 to 0 at some of the longer duration high TPS sections. Zero is the low-flow indicator in EvoScan, right (it starts out at idle at 0 then goes to 1 as I start rolling)? The pump was replaced with a Bosch unit back in 2013. If this is not the correct operation, then my best bet would be a hotwire I think. My injectors are still original and have never been removed to my knowledge. I have cycled them on/off one at a time using EvoScan while idling, and I seem to get a very consistent response from each injector, although I don’t know how representative that is to how they function at higher frequencies when the car is actually running.

There’s a lot there, but I’m trying to sum everything up in one post for the benefit of those that may want to help, but haven’t been reading this entire thread. Given the age, I think all the maintenance above is worthwhile, but if anyone sees some no-brainer data in these logs that can help triage my list I’d appreciate any suggestions. I don’t get a lot of time to dedicate to the car, so I’d like to tackle the most egregious issues first.

If there are other parameters I should be logging let me know and I’ll be sure to capture them next time. Finally, can someone tell me if using EvoScan to clear DTCs is the same thing as doing a battery disconnect to reset the CPU? I have not pulled the battery recently, is it possible that the IAT CEL keeps coming back because of long-time learned data persistent in the computer?

Thanks for any help!
 

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3SNY - HondaTurtleFTW
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IIRC evoscan clears CELs just fine.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #117
IIRC evoscan clears CELs just fine.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Yeah I don't have any problems using EvoScan to clear codes. What I mean is, is clearing in EvoScan the same thing as pulling the negative battery cable for 60 seconds to reset the computer?

Doesn't the computer learn/adjust fuel scheduling over time based on ambient conditions? When I do something as drastic as changing out the MAF, should I also do a reset instead of just clearing the codes? Or are they one and the same?
 

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Yeah I don't have any problems using EvoScan to clear codes. What I mean is, is clearing in EvoScan the same thing as pulling the negative battery cable for 60 seconds to reset the computer?

Doesn't the computer learn/adjust fuel scheduling over time based on ambient conditions? When I do something as drastic as changing out the MAF, should I also do a reset instead of just clearing the codes? Or are they one and the same?
I don't have time to look through the log at this moment, but your assumptions are correct... clearing the codes is NOT the same thing as pulling the battery cable. Both methods will clear codes, but pulling the cables resets the ECU's memory on fuel adjustments as well. There is also a fuse you can pull that does the same thing as pulling the battery cables.

Little helpful blurb here:
Stealth 316 - Inside fuses

Stealth316 is the bible btw, in case no one has told you.
 

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3SNY - HondaTurtleFTW
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Yeah I don't have any problems using EvoScan to clear codes. What I mean is, is clearing in EvoScan the same thing as pulling the negative battery cable for 60 seconds to reset the computer?

Doesn't the computer learn/adjust fuel scheduling over time based on ambient conditions? When I do something as drastic as changing out the MAF, should I also do a reset instead of just clearing the codes? Or are they one and the same?
They're different. Clearing DTCs does just that. A hard reset like disconnecting the battery should clear all learned data, but I'm not sure. The car will retune itself though. Plus, I don't think the MAF has anything to do with fuel trims directly, just telling the ecu what trim to use based on load. I could be wrong though.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #120
I don't have time to look through the log at this moment, but your assumptions are correct... clearing the codes is NOT the same thing as pulling the battery cable. Both methods will clear codes, but pulling the cables resets the ECU's memory on fuel adjustments as well. There is also a fuse you can pull that does the same thing as pulling the battery cables.

Little helpful blurb here:
Stealth 316 - Inside fuses

Stealth316 is the bible btw, in case no one has told you.
They're different. Clearing DTCs does just that. A hard reset like disconnecting the battery should clear all learned data, but I'm not sure. The car will retune itself though. Plus, I don't think the MAF has anything to do with fuel trims directly, just telling the ecu what trim to use based on load. I could be wrong though.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Thanks guys. Good to know they’re different operations.

Yeah I’m familiar with Jeff’s site… I read it page-by-page in the early 2000s when my father first got the car. I need to utilize searching it more for sure.
 
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