As usual, more good considerations there.Ah okay. I decided to just buy a set of stock 360cc injectors from Aaron (92VR4widebody) since they are so cheap. He said he has several sets so you might want to PM him or post in this thread if you wanna go that route:
I got them for two main reasons (might be somewhat related to your problems):
1. I am getting excessive knock trying to run shitty CA 91 pump with RC 550cc injectors using SAFC2, and I suspect the injectors might be the problem. These injectors have 120k on them and the correction % i am running in SAFC II does not make sense for the size of the injectors (less negative than it should be), so I am worried one or more injector is not flowing as it should be causing lean condition in certain cylinder(s). FWIW about 8 years (and 80k miles) ago my car was tuned by GTPRO with these exact same injectors (and no engine mods since then) and it ran completely fine. SAFC numbers have been adjusted since then which i think is because the injectors need a full clean/flow/service. It was tuned at like 12:1 AFR and even when i try running 10.5:1 now I still get crazy knock. My motor mounts have been replaced so i dont think its that. When chasing knock problems most people recommend filling up with a few gallons of race gas (100+ oct) and seeing if the knock goes away. That can help narrow down to a fuel problem. I havent been able to try this yet.
2. After i recently fixed my rear O2 sensor and started getting closed loop operation again, i noticed that my low throttle acceleration is very uneven when the ECU is trying to correct fuel to maintain 14.7:1 AFR. I can literally feel the injectors cycling if that makes sense - the acceleration is not smooth (not quite jerky but kindof close in 1st). There is no sputtering/backfire/etc it just seems like the fuel delivery is poor and uneven. As soon as it goes into open loop (even still light throttle just generally above 3000 RPM), acceleration instantly smoothes out and AFRs are low 13 (again low throttle not in boost). It is most noticable in lower gears of course. Hard to tell at cruise on the freeway in 5th.
The more i think about it, I think it would be a good idea for you to disable closed loop and see if that fixes your low RPM uneven acceleration issues (if the PTU didnt?). IIRC you are using chrome and i believe there is an option to do just that, so it should be a quick and easy test.
I'm not thrilled about the idea of dropping in used parts as that always leaves some uncertainty about their condition if the problem does not go away. But on the flip side, if I drop in stock injectors then I don't have to worry about trying to dial in different latencies -which is something I haven't gotten into yet. I haven't even wired up the flash port for the Chrome ECU, it's strictly working as a factory replacement now. My thought process all along was to try and get the car running back to stock before I messed with any flashing, again just because that is uncharted territory and I'm trying to eliminate the number of variables I'm introducing as I step through my troubleshooting.
Disabling closed loop though might be worth it for sure -especially if it's something I can turn on and off without changing anything else during the flash.
I pulled the crank pulley and verified the timing using the sprocket's mark on the block. Good news is, I'm still timed properly. I put that all back together and got a look from the underside with a mirror directly in front. From that view the mark looks much better, so now I know where to look from if I need to check this again against the timing cover.
I also struck some lines across the different sections of the damper, which should provide an easy way to tell if that starts slipping on me again (assuming they don't wear off over time).
I'll regroup after I get the new mounts in and get a fresh set of logs, with a minimal amount of parameters (as futurevr4man suggested). Only working on the car an hour or two at a time has really slowed the process down.
These mounts look like they're going to be a bitch. I haven't even put my eyes on the rear mount yet. Does the subframe brace that runs fore and aft have to come out to get the two lower ones replaced? If it does, would now be the time to use that access to drop the downpipe and gut my pre-cats? Or is that job doable enough on its own with that brace in place (going off of memory now of what it looks like under there).