Appreciate the info. and video link. Yeah I'm not too worried about the coolant temp, it was just something I noticed was pretty high in my logs. The dash gage seems to be reading proportionally to what I'm seeing there. Glad to know my TPS range is making sense too –one less thing for me to check.Here's my car to his point. Must be corrosion in the wiring somewhere, idk.
This is accurate too.
Great thread. Love how good your posts are!
Edits: Other Notes
TPS will not be 0 -100. I think mine is 12% - 97%... so don't be worried about that.
Max safe temp for coolant is keeping it below boiling, but more importantly, letting the engine come down in temperature evenly so you don't warp the heads. Iron and Aluminum cool at different rates. Coolant at 15psi (radiator cap) doesn't boil till 250+ so keep it below that. Here's a link to show some more info: https://durathermfluids.com/pdf/techpapers/pressure-boiling-point.pdf
Lastly, I can't make heads or tails as to why the two pins are listed differently... but according to our bible (if you don't know about Stealth316, you should check it out... everything in there!) the ECU pinouts for 91-97 all say pin 52, while 99's say pin 62 is for IAT.
Stealth 316 - ECM pin assignments
Hope some of that helps
Great intro. Check all your tail light sockets for ground. I had similar problems with my 97 SL when I first got it. Turn the lights on with CC engaged would disable it, inside lights would flicker. Took it to a family run Auto-electric shop, the dad ran it down in 10 minutes. The ground wire is embedded in the base of the socket. He played around with it trying to take it out but no dice. Some how he got it to ground so it's OK for now. We put dielectric grease on it after cleaning up the crud. Works great for now but I need to look at replacing it. Had about the same problem with my 97 VR4, cleaned up the sockets, put Dielectric grease, no more problem. Hope this helps.
True, but with 212K on the original injectors, would you risk going through the job twice? I don't know how big of a pain it is.You can get just an injector seal set off of ninjaperformance.com. maybe other vendors as well. cheaper than changing injectors if they are functioning properly.
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Similar to doing plugs:True, but with 212K on the original injectors, would you risk going through the job twice? I don't know how big of a pain it is.
Thanks Jester. Once I have it buttoned up I'll take it out for another run and see what kind of values the IAT is reporting. My last log was after installing new coils, a new PTU, and fixing a bunch of vacuum line leaks. The IAT for that short run was back to reading correct (at least, the numbers were reasonable for the ambient conditions), but I have noticed it to be an intermittent issue, so it may just have been a fluke. The car still ran really bad as far as the part-throttle response below ~3000 RPM, also it smells horribly of fuel when idling.So i just checked the circuit on the ecu. If there is no signal to the pin the ecu will read -68.2 degrees. If you ground the pin the ecu will read 164 degrees. Also fyi the highest the iat can read is 168 apparently.
Logged TPS? Yes.Have you logged what your TOS is reading at part throttle? It may have a dead spot, or dirty spot, where you're having issues.
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I designed the same thing. I just made it where you could put 4 m6x1.0 screws in from the maf side and thread into the housing. It makes for a simpler design.Thanks Jester. Once I have it buttoned up I'll take it out for another run and see what kind of values the IAT is reporting. My last log was after installing new coils, a new PTU, and fixing a bunch of vacuum line leaks. The IAT for that short run was back to reading correct (at least, the numbers were reasonable for the ambient conditions), but I have noticed it to be an intermittent issue, so it may just have been a fluke. The car still ran really bad as far as the part-throttle response below ~3000 RPM, also it smells horribly of fuel when idling.
I have to get the new Evo X BOV installed, which is hopefully my biggest leak. I got it all into place and immediately realized that I was having clearance issues between it and the shifter counterweight, which was preventing me from shifting into 1, 3, or 5.
Looking around the forums I can see that I’m not the first person this has happened to. I need to make a trip to the parts store to get an elbow so I can relocate it out of the way, or perhaps print one. I should have some time to work on it this afternoon to see how it runs without that leak.
I’m hoping to relocate it in this position:
Speaking of the printer, I was able to model and print an adapter and save a bunch of money on a filter kit. I was finding K&N 3000GT kits for anywhere between $150 and $200, but they’re essentially just the filter and an attachment adapter for the MAF. I was able to get the K&N RF-1001 filter for $40 and make my own adapter to attach it. I need to tweak the model and print it again as I had a good deal of warping off of the print surface where the bolt holes are, but not bad enough that it wasn’t able to tighten into place. I’ll see how it holds up once I get the car back on the road.
On the print table, you can see how the pucks in the corners didn’t work to hold them down into place:
There was still enough length on the bolts to bring it together:
I used a loft to make a smooth transition between the filter’s oval and the MAF’s octagon.
Thanks, and do you mean my relationship with my Dad? Or with the wife? Dad and I were cool; we buried the accident hatchet a long time ago. But so far, the wife isn't the biggest fan of the car But I think that'll turn around once I get these kinks worked out.Great intro and history. Condolences for your loss but what a great remembrance. Loved the old pics with your father and one with your wife driving also. Very cool. Bet your relationship had its annoyances, just like 3S ownership
The printer I use is a Prusa Research i3 Mk2S, and yes I'd recommend it to any beginner. When setup correctly it's able to print on par or better than printers that are 2-3X the cost. When I bought it about a year ago it was $700 for an unassembled kit. It's the only 3D printer I've ever owned, and so far it's been great.Unfortunately, I don't have much to offer on all of your nagging sensor and electrical issues. I personally enjoy AEM EMS v2 for these cars and run them in speed density. Easier for me to trouble shoot as it's pretty easy to see when a sensor isn't acting right. Flex fuel is a nice addition also even for a basically stock car. Something to consider.
Good luck and keep us updated!
edit: what printer are you using? any recommendations for a 3d printing beginner for an auto hobbyist?
That looks good. The printer has been an awesome tool to have. The next part I plan on making is the front bank injector wire holder. That'll be a little harder model than the MAF air filter adapter for sure.I designed the same thing. I just made it where you could put 4 m6x1.0 screws in from the maf side and thread into the housing. It makes for a simpler design.