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It is NOT difficult at all. You need to take the lower half of the dash off but it is not hard. I can't remember exactly all the bolts you need to remove but there are a few that are kinda hidden. There are bolts behind some of the switches that you need to remove. Beside the steering column, on the right hand side, pry out the rear wiper and active exhaust switch assy. Behind that, there is a 10mm (I think) bolt that needs to come off. On the other side of the steering column, the rearview mirror and panel dim switch assy must be pryed out to get to the second bolt. Also, you can tap into the panel dim switch to get a dimmable power source for your boost guage's illumination. I can't remember which wire it is but just take a voltmeter to the wires for the dimmer and see which lead changes voltage as you turn the dimmer.

I did not want to drill into the pillar or the dash to mount the boost guage. The pillar mount cup can be double side taped to the pillar. Also, you can route the wires and the vacum line between the dash and the pillar without drilling a hole into your dash. If the tolerances are tight and the vacum line gets squished between the pillar and the dash, just find a metal or copper tube that fits over the vacum line and cut it so its about 1 inch long. Use this tube to protect the vacum line from "squishing".

Good Luck!
Jose Soriano
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply Amahoser ! Yeah, I don't want to have to drill holes either.

Anyone got any recommendations for the gauge ? What's the best ? I'm looking for accuracy/stability, quick response time, black face/white numbers/amber backlit, peak hold function. How about PSI vs kg/cm2, I don't recall seeing many PSI gauges out there.
 

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Grant,

I have the SPI gauge and it has everything you want except peak-hold. It is black with white numbers, reads PSI and can be amber or green backlit (same gauge). It seems to me to be very stable and accurate. I have the Blitz DSBC boost controller and it has the peak-hold function so I use its display for that. The readings from both gauges match so I believe them to both be accurate. What are the chances that they would both be wrong the same amount?

I also have the A-pillar setup and I drilled mine and used screws to hold it on. I think it still looks good and I don't have any intention to sell my car so it's OK with me. I didn't have to remove anything but the A-piller trim to mount my gauges (Boost, EGT, A/F). The wires/hoses run down beside the dash and come out by the fuse box. You may have to do a little fishing to find the wires but it's really no big deal.

Dan

[This message has been edited by DanM_94_VR4 (edited December 15, 1999).]
 

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Hey guys,

One of these days I'll want to buy a boost controller so; where do you buy the A pillar pod? Does it look factory? Do you have to paint it or does it come molded in the standard colors?

Thanks,

Steve
 

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The one I have is made by AutoMeter. You can buy it at CarParts.com or pretty much anywhere that they sell AutoMeter gauges. The only color it is available in (as far as I know) is black.

Dan

[This message has been edited by DanM_94_VR4 (edited December 15, 1999).]
 
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Hey DanM_94_VR4,

How did you hook up your A/F (air/fuel ratio) meter? What hose or hoses does it hook up to in the engine compartment? I always wondered about this ...

Thanks,

Bryan
 

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Hey Brian,

The A/F gauge doesn't hook up to any hoses. It connects to the O2 sensor output wire and reads the voltage from the sensor.

Dan
 
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