No it just breaches the head gasket briefly and seals back up.It will get worse and worse until you can barely get into boost because it will push coolant. I lifted the heads at 22 psi on TD04s and E-85 but that’s was due to some MAF scaling issues that advanced my timing from 21 to 25 degrees. I put in new head gaskets and everything is sealed back up again.No headlift fix, standard oem MLS head gaskets and head bolts. If it was the head lift, would I see the coolant blowing out the exhaust or down the motor or something?
You can get them into the mid30’s for sure.
Might as well continue using this thread.
Those runs are 26-28ish psi (relying on glancing at the gauge), first 3 pulls out of the garage. Probably a 50/50 mix of E85 and 93.
Looks like plenty of room for improvement.
But that 15 minute trip (WOT half a dozen gears worth) pushed about 3/4 gallon of coolant out the overflow tank, so I'm not yet sure what to do about that.
No other issues so far.
How much boost can these big 16gs push anyway?
It's been so long since I looked at the tune I don't remember. I literally got this thing together and drove it to record those runs to see where it was at. I'll get a look at the map later but I'm pretty sure it's about the same as stock in that range.You can get them into the mid30’s for sure.
As others have said, sounds like you have a head gasket breach.
How much timing are you running at 4-5k, 5-6k, 6-7k and 7k+?
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Short answer, reduce timing at peak tq (boost hit) to not blow shit up.It's been so long since I looked at the tune I don't remember. I literally got this thing together and drove it to record those runs to see where it was at. I'll get a look at the map later but I'm pretty sure it's about the same as stock in that range.
Is the idea to pull timing in that range to prevent the blowby into the coolant passage? Or just to overall reduce power/cylinder pressure until I get the fix done?
Also, is Ray or anyone else still servicing these heads?
Virtual dyno is a free program you can download. You input your vehicle specs and upload a log and it calculates vehicle HP. How accurate it is depends on how good the data you put in is mostly.So is that some kind of virtual dyno? And is it wheel hp or crank?
I never got boost logging setup (I bought the wrong MAP sensor and never bothered with it again). Was considering doing that next, but it hasn't been a high priority. Turning it down is definitely the next step, I didn't even know what the boost would be at when I recorded those (MBC), now I knowWhen you say, "the same as stock," were you running the same map/numbers as your 19T's, or did you actually retune beforehand? If the same or even "stock", then it is likely too much.
Also, is your boost logging not set up yet? That will help tremendously aside from looking at the curves and load figures. In the meantime, I would turn it down and reasses/work your way back up more safely.
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Yeah thats VD. It's supposed to represent WHP, and is supposedly pretty accurate. I just use it as a tool. For example, I know on 19T's I was making ~450whp with VD on Dynojet.So is that some kind of virtual dyno? And is it wheel hp or crank?
Ah, My way is go to the track....then make excuses because the 60' sucks lol.Virtual dyno is a free program you can download. You input your vehicle specs and upload a log and it calculates vehicle HP. How accurate it is depends on how good the data you put in is mostly.
So what turbos are you on? the 19t or 16g? I cant wait to turn up the boost on my car and drive it for the first time. Ill probably just want more though lol.Yeah thats VD. It's supposed to represent WHP, and is supposedly pretty accurate. I just use it as a tool. For example, I know on 19T's I was making ~450whp with VD on Dynojet.
I forgot to mention, GD were those runs fun, fastest car I've been in now. (I also make it a point to NOT get in cars that are faster than mine, ignorance is bliss)
It looks like you smoothed out the 2-3k high load area by adding more timing; that's probably the highway cruising 5th/6th area and passing without downshifting. Also, the stock timing map only goes to 21 degrees not 23 like you have. Regardless, the timing at peak torque and above is way too high. I'd say that's why you pushed coolant. Dial it back and you should be ok.View attachment 287241
There's the timing map. Higher than I remember.
I gotcha on the damage, I saw the pictures of melted heads in the headlift fix thread. I want to be sure the combustion getting into the coolant is what is actually happening, and I also want to drive the car for a bit before another teardown (it's been almost 2 years since I last drove it).
If it is blowby into the coolant, I'll drop the power down until it's not an issue until I'm ready to down the car for a few weeks.