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95 VR-4 Spyder
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199 Posts
Man, I dunno why you're so gung ho on selling the MG with it. Just list the VR-4 for 27,500$, telling people the VR comes with a free MG when purchase, if you absolutely have to have both gone.

You have a car that garnered a lot of interest and offers, yet for some reason you have to bundle it, give us some clarity here dude. Is it a bet or something? Like you made a bet you can get 7500 for the MG and refuse to budge? I'm just so confused by your agenda.
 

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4G63 swap initiated
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7,363 Posts
Nobody on earth wants an mg for 7500. Look in the mirror and repeat that.
 
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1992 3000GT VR4
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1,191 Posts
You would be better off letting MG go on another forum or ebay maybe have better luck...
Pretty sure no one here wants a MG just sitting in there yard with no audience or driver .... would have to go to someone that is will to put the TLC in it.... instead of a yard ornament feel me .... sell the VR4 ... because ther is definitely a good bit of people that have already turned away and have forgotten about this post for sale... and your loosing interest fast ..... MG would have to go to a good home bro....
But that's just my take on it ..... do what ya wanna do it's your vehicles
Just my take on it

(Plus) the tow bill for 1 vehicle i think Is plenty enough $ for one to dish out... plus a good lump some of cash they are giving you for a nice car in general is pretty deep pockets already
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for your input.
May I add to conversation. I have liked the forum and especially the opions brought out in many topics.
One mans lawn ornament is another man's sweet ride on the blue ridge parkway and other mountanists drives.
The mg being offered has potential to make someone money. Nada values
Original MSRP · $2,520 ; Low Retail · $8,250 ; Average Retail · $12,100 ; High Retail · $26,500.
If bringinging this vehicle into this forum has offended anyone. Pardon me.
Change oil says nobody here wants mg.
Confuseses say man go to bed with itchy butt wake with stinky finger.
I must have missed the thread voting you the spokesperson of this here possy.
Hope you can find the humor in that.
Just think all the criticism i have received about offering mg here and trying to bundle it is an error.
I dont want either car. I dont have time they need to make them 100%. Barely have time to sellem. I am a retired carpenter got both vehicles from garage finishing projects.
Went ghost on uall due to family emergency. Probably why sleepless night posting this at 310am. Critized for a posting which I and some understood.
Said adhd was abundant in post. There was no such thing as ADHD when I was growing up. To busy building tree forts. To busy rebuilding my beetle and my motorcycles. Bet that reply from generation x or y you know the ones that spend more time on video games and phones than doing anything that counts in life.
Many in this forum need to lighten up.
Hope enjoy my story and gets read by for mentioned many.
 

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I'm almost sorry I started this mess.
Yes, I was the first one to tell you that you had a very rare car.


With that came lots of interest and then some silence.
Now you come back with the "package" deal.

Have you tried putting your MG on an MG forum?
I would think you would get plenty of interest there.

Before you jump down my throat and tell me I'm a gen x or y person, I'm 64 and have been around long enough to know what's what.

If you want to sell your VR4, your best bet is to do it here.
A lot of the members here, have been here for a good while, and can appreciate (and WOULD appreciate) what you have.

Personally I don't think the 99 is worth $20K, there are a lot of unknowns about it.
That said, it's your vehicle and you can ask whatever you want for it.

I said it initially, and I'll say it again, GOOD LUCK with the sale.....

Bob.
 

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AWD rules
94 SL TT ATX & 97 VR-4
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4,618 Posts
I personally think you'll sell both of them faster if you split them up. There aren't many people out there that want to take on a pair of cars at a time, especially cars of unknown condition. People who like VR-4s aren't going to want an MG to hassle with. People who like MGs aren't going to want to shell out an additional $20k for a VR-4.

You can do what you want, but your going to spend a very long time and a lot more effort trying to sell them as a package deal, but hey, it's your time and effort, no sweat off of anyone else's brow. There were 287 99 VR-4s made, and I see a few up for sale on a yearly basis. There will be others that come up for sale this year that people will have an opportunity to buy and not just yours.
 

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1992 3000GT VR4
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1,191 Posts
I'm almost sorry I started this mess.
Yes, I was the first one to tell you that you had a very rare car.


With that came lots of interest and then some silence.
Now you come back with the "package" deal.

Have you tried putting your MG on an MG forum?
I would think you would get plenty of interest there.

Before you jump down my throat and tell me I'm a gen x or y person, I'm 64 and have been around long enough to know what's what.

If you want to sell your VR4, your best bet is to do it here.
A lot of the members here, have been here for a good while, and can appreciate (and WOULD appreciate) what you have.

Personally I don't think the 99 is worth $20K, there are a lot of unknowns about it.
That said, it's your vehicle and you can ask whatever you want for it.

I said it initially, and I'll say it again, GOOD LUCK with the sale.....

Bob.
What I read in the original post for sale
What I got off it was helping one person out to get the most out of the VR4 because its was fixing to fly off the shelf for the original price it was posted for
Had me on the edge of my seat as well

It will still sell just play the cards right and dont beat around the bush be honest of what's wrong with it... all these cars need some sort of work
When I heard "the timing belt destroyed other belts" thru the red flag for me then the original price made sense...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for yourall s responses
I'm almost sorry I started this mess.
Yes, I was the first one to tell you that you had a very rare car.


With that came lots of interest and then some silence.
Now you come back with the "package" deal.

Have you tried putting your MG on an MG forum?
I would think you would get plenty of interest there.

Before you jump down my throat and tell me I'm a gen x or y person, I'm 64 and have been around long enough to know what's what.

If you want to sell your VR4, your best bet is to do it here.
A lot of the members here, have been here for a good while, and can appreciate (and WOULD appreciate) what you have.

Personally I don't think the 99 is worth $20K, there are a lot of unknowns about it.
That said, it's your vehicle and you can ask whatever you want for it.
Figured spyderman my age I'm 64 as well.
I have been honest from the getgo
Deer ran into drivers door. Replaced

I said it initially, and I'll say it again, GOOD LUCK with the sale.....

Bob.
Thanks for all responses.
Been honest from the getgo. Listed all things happened to it and my fixes.
Car looks great. Not 100%
The timing belt eating serpentine issue
Was repaired. Valve job was all it needed. The only thing that happened to this motor was bent valves. I pulled engined. Not a scratch on the cam shafts. I pulled heads. The only sign anything happened was carbon on piston head was scuffed. I inspected lower end after removing oil pan. Checking for metal in oil. Zero. Did valve job put everything back together and runs like a top. 130 lbs compression at each cylnder.
All done by myself. Guessing between 80 to 100 hrs. Was a labor of love and realize these cars take a person willing to do just that.
Posted other imperfections.
Thats as honest as gets.
I have a few interested parties in both cars.
Thanks for the good luck wishes
 

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15,832 Posts

Check Cylinder Compression
Place the long-reach adapter onto your compression gauge. If you have multiple adapters, examine them and use the one that is closest to the length of the threads on your spark plugs. Thread the compression gauge into the spark plug hole of the cylinder you wish to test. Make sure the connection is snug. If you were doing this with the plenum and throttle body attached (front bank only), then you would hold the accelerator pedal on the floor to open the throttle body. Since the plenum and throttle body are off the car at this point, you don't have to mess with the accelerator pedal. Then turn the engine over (by turning the ignition key to "Start" with the clutch pedal depressed) until the needle on the gauge stops moving (it may take 10-15 compression strokes). Record this value and repeat for each of the other 5 cylinders. Stock compression for a NA engine (10:1) is 185psi with a lower limit of 139psi. Stock compression for a turbo engine (8:1) is 156psi with a lower limit of 115psi. Further, in either engine, there should be no more than 14psi between the HIGHEST and LOWEST cylinder compression readings. Note that compression readings should be taken with a WARM engine, which means you'll have to do the above steps with rather hot parts - mechanics' gloves help. For reference, my engine reads about 10-15psi LOW when cold when compared to a warm (operating temperature) engine.Note: if you have a cylinder that has LOW compression, you can try squirting a small amount (a mL or two) of engine oil into that cylinder's spark plug hole and rechecking compression. If the compression is better the second time, that could indicate worn rings on that cylinder (oil helps provide a better seal).

A healthy engine should be closer to 150 PSI, for what it's worth.

Bob.
 

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Bert, thanks for addressing people's questions. I have a few.

How many miles have been put on the car since the valve job?
What's wrong with the oil cooler and why isn't it hooked up? How many miles driven without it hooked up?

I noticed a VT plate on the car. How come it's registered in VT when you and the last owner both live in VA?

You mentioned that the driver quarter panel and door were replaced after a deer hit. Were those painted to match the car or taken from other cars that were red?

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Glad u replied and I will answer your questions while exercising my communication skills.
To start with the engine has never run without the oil cooler. I stated that it meeded one to be 100%. The original lines corroded and I replaced with fuel lines. The fix was pretty darn good but I felt had to be mentioned. 1 mans fix is another mans joke.
I have made 2 trips since the valve job. A 1 hr trip to the golf course both country roads and interstate. Car performed well. Several trips to the store. Winter set in and havent had it on the road since. I had an incident where I tried to move vehicle and it would stall.tried 4 5 times not wanting to persue any further and investigate.
I placed car on jacks and was able to run through the gears while still on jack stands. Had run up to 40 mph and worked sreering wheel to attempt to bleed steering of rear wheels. 1st time since rebuild. Still in investigating mood. Thought possibly main bearing
Making stall when load applied to try move vehicle as compared to lees load while on jack stands. I removed oil pan again to inspect oil and lower end. No metal shavings and everything looks fine. Put all back together took off jack stand and drove down the road??????
Didnt touch nothing didnt fix nothing.
Why it was stalling is a mystery and hasnt happened again.
I am a legal resident of VT. I have been a traveling carpenter for 20 yrs. I had a chance to build a house in WV after losing my father and been traveling between WV and vt. While picking up jobs in between. I have been very fortunate working for family and friends. I am retired now just havent changed my legal residence.
I picked up the car from a finish garage project in Alexandria VA. I myself have only put on maybe 2000miles. Fell in love with car then the deer ran into my drivers door. Pretty good fix wouldnt you say by looking at pics. Not 100% but nice. Then timing belt issue. Pretty good fix wouldnt u say. Back running.
Being as honest as I can.
May I ask you what to look out for as far as scammers. I dont see how a seller can get scammed. I hope to get cash only for the sale but do u think cashiers check is a safe way to go. No transfers of anything till check clears or do you have any suggestions.
I hope this sheds some light on your questions.
 

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I'm really sorry, but your last post is a WHOLE lot of run on NOTHING.

Does the car run?
What, if anything does it need to make it able to be driven home?

Do you have a new selling price?
Still doing the "package deal"?

I am trying to help you here....

Bob.
 
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