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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
Ordered solid lifterkit which is coming in next week. Also ordered studs and bolt for the plenum and throttle body.
We were also able to scoop up a 4 bolt for the 92VR4 so we'e gonna be quite busy this fall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
What lifters did you use? I replaced my 3 gen ones with ajusa ones (another problem, was not ticking) 99 VR-4. They both worked the same - they are quiet. I did put them in half filled, because I was afraid if they are fully extended then valves could get hit by pistons. They ticked at first and after 15 minutes of idling stopped.

On my 95 3000gt i have not looked what it is but seems 2gen. They tick if engine stops in odd location. I thing the adjuster will be under pressure and in time bleed out. It will go fix itself if engine warms up. If it's really cold (-20c) it will make quite good racket, but you can tell that it's just one adjuster. same thing - if engine oil goes hot and viscous , it will pipe down.
3SX ones
What lifters did you use? I replaced my 3 gen ones with ajusa ones (another problem, was not ticking) 99 VR-4. They both worked the same - they are quiet. I did put them in half filled, because I was afraid if they are fully extended then valves could get hit by pistons. They ticked at first and after 15 minutes of idling stopped.

On my 95 3000gt i have not looked what it is but seems 2gen. They tick if engine stops in odd location. I thing the adjuster will be under pressure and in time bleed out. It will go fix itself if engine warms up. If it's really cold (-20c) it will make quite good racket, but you can tell that it's just one adjuster. same thing - if engine oil goes hot and viscous , it will pipe down.
Ordered at 3sx, might be able to reuse them in another engine but for now i am gonna try the solid lifter kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Is it possible that the oil weight might affect them pumping up when cold? E.g., 5w30 vs 15w50, etc?
Would the Euro 0w40 work better?
I saw the YouTube link of the fellow who says to weaken the lifter internal springs, and he states that he had done extensive trials with many different oil additives -- nothing helps .

BUT, wondering if that Marvel Mystery oil might help?
Or a one-time engine flush?

The work involved in replacing those rear lifters is making me grasp at straws.
Honestly at this point it don't care about the techical issue with oil. To me oil viscosity should be selected based upon wear and tear in the engine. I just want that tick gone in our stock Stealth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Hey I did my lifters and had a similar noise. I hadnt lined things up properly. You have to be really particular about having the rocker arms lined up perfectly over the lifters. Just pull the rocker cover off (assuming it's the front one) and check. You'll notice pretty much straight away.
I'll check when i adjust clearance with the feeler gauge...
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
It used to make me feel really frustrated every time i had to remove intake manifold , but I learned that it is more psychological than hard to do labor wise. if you really put your mind to it you can remove intake and access the rear cover in 15 minutes. it will take 30-60 minutes to put it back together thou.

In my experience oil weight will make a difference and hence it starts to work after engine is hot. I would not care about them too much if they seldom tick then engine cold. It's fine. the problem that OP has that it won't go away which would say that either lifters are "funny" or installation problem. If this ticking was before and after then it would be question of oil supply (some of the oil channels are clogged from debris, oil pump is worn).

I have installed oil pressure sensor and I can see that my VR4 will have huge fluctuations on how oil pressure changes from cold to hot in idle. after 2-3 minutes of running oil pressure is around 1.5bar , but it will drop to 0.5 bar if in traffic jam on hot summer. This was for 10w-40 engine oli. I changed to 10w-50 and it's not idling around 0.7bar in really hot day (30+c). I probably can't use this oil at winter because it will be so thich in -15c etc. so there is a big tradeoff. turbos have it worse than Na since there is hardly any room and a lot of heating going on under the hood. Mitsu itself specs 4-5 different oils from I believe 0w-30 to 10w-60 depending on climate. So they are also kinda worried of the end temperature/viscosity of the oil so they recommend thicker oils on hotter climates. So even if you put thinner oil in and it's wrong for season it might make lifters to work faster, but would hurt the engine as a whole.
Totally agree. I am a petrol head. Don't care for additional work / labor. High performance engines should run smooth, no ticking and shit....

Actually the ticking was less with the old lifters (1st gen) in em. Soaking with diesel is also viable but i wanna see the result with a solid lifter kit. If that works it's no hydraulic lifters for me...

Yes, i was thinking the same regarding the oil pump and pressure. it's just i want to try the easy ( lfiter) way and if that does not work we're going upgrade /revamp oil pump when doing timing belt and water pump.....
Cheers LBZ
 

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Totally agree. I am a pertol head. Don't care for additional work / labor. High performance engines should run smooth, no ticking and shit....

Actually the ticking was less with the old lifters (1st gen) in em. Socking with diesel is also viable but i wanna see the result with a solid lifter kit. If that works it's no hydraulic lifters for me...

Yes, i was thinking the same regarding the oil pump and presurre. it's juts i want to try the easy ( lfiter) way and if that does not work we're going upgrade /revamp oil pump when doing timing belt andwater pump.....
Cheers LBZ
Best of luck and cant wait to hear your results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Not sure if it will help, but figure I'd chime in with my lifter experience. Bear in mind, these are just the standard lifters.

I had my car in storage for about ~ 7 months. After hibernation, starting the car had an insane tick. It legitimately sounded like my entire valvetrain was knocked loose, with the top end slapping on the valve cover. Of course, with hydraulic lifters, they need time to re-adjust and pressurize. Or so I thought....

Took my car out 2 times (15-30 minute drives) in a span of 4 months, and both times the tick did not stop pounding the top end. I didn't change the oil since storage, and some time later changed the oil when I had the time to.

Lifter tick was instantly cured, absolutely quiet upon startup, idle, driving, you name it.

Granted I rarely drive my car, I've done two oil changes since ownership (once annually), and put on ~500 miles a year. I've only ran ENEOS 5W-30 for my oil changes.

I'm not an motor oil expert by any means, but for my usage I believe 5W-30 is the best for my scenario for startup wear/protection, oil heat shearing protection, and practical use (spirited driving and annual drag racing.) YMMV.
Thanks for the feedback.
Appreciate that.

Solid lifters and special tools ( mitutoyo dial gauge and magnetic stand) are in... This week is install time ;-)
 

· Lovbyts
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I remember having fun adjusting solid lifters on one of my cars back in the day. Did I say fun??? lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I remember having fun adjusting solid lifters on one of my cars back in the day. Did I say fun??? lol
We're not in a rush. Started with installing yesterday maintaining clearance 0.015" on the intake and 0.030" on the exhaust side. Paul do you recall the rockers seem to fit loosely?
 

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We're not in a rush. Started with installing yesterday maintaining clearance 0.015" on the intake and 0.030" on the exhaust side. Paul do you recall the rockers seem to fit loosely?
Wasnt on a 3S. This was back in the 80s. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
LASH ADJUSTER REPLACEMENT UPDATE.
So the solid lash adjusters also did not give the desired result ( minor ticking) and we decided to purchase OEM lifters and follow the diesel bleeding procedure as described in the manual (no oil bleeding)
NO tick upon initial start !!!!, No reving up the engine until 3000 RPM just no tick from the intial cold start. PERFECT
We run "Castrol Edge 5W-40 A3/B4 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil"
Video below is after we had the engine idle for about 15 minutes. FINALLY VICTORY !!!
No more obnoxious tick. Onto the next task, replace the clutch and 120K maintenance.
 
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