[Diablo]

on my 1st gen TT. Pulled the caliper, removed the center hub nut, gave the rotor a few good whacks, and still the summammabitch wont come off.....Am I missing something here? Every other dam car I've owned never needed more than that to get 'em off. Help! I need to get these puppies turned and back on for the weekend!
BTW, I already tried doing a search and came up with very little.
Thanks in advance...

 

[Elmo]

Center Hub nut? Why did you remove that??

The caliper is bolted on from behind with two 17MM bolts. (you probably know that already)

The rotor is just press fit onto the hub. turn the steering wheel all the way to the direction of the side you are trying to remove, and with the caliper secure and tied away (or removed completely if you're willing to bleed your lines) whack the back of the rotor's edge with a rubber mallet. HARD. keep the lug nuts on at least 2 of the three lug bolts, unless you want the rotor to go flying off the hub, and hit the ground. (makes a wonderfully musical noise, but do't do it. trust me)

That's all there is to it. honest. Unless your's are so rusted that they won't budge, then bath the lug bolts in wd40 for half an hour. The fluid will seep inside, behind the rotor somewhat, and may help.

Good luck dude.

Elton

 

[Mutilator]

Do the 1st gens have those 2 holes for bolts that you can screw in and the rotors pop right off? I know mine did when I did my brakes a couple weeks ago... but I have a 95 Base GT...

 

[Elmo]

Do the 1st gens have those 2 holes for bolts that you can screw in and the rotors pop right off? I know mine did when I did my brakes a couple weeks ago... but I have a 95 Base GT...

Not on the Twin turbo Front calipers... only on the rear.

Unless every one that I've seen has been a freak or something.

E

 

[Diablo]

Hmmm...what size bolts do those holes take? Pretty sure I saw some, and frankly, I have been beating down on that rotor for quite some time now (I dont have a rubber mallet, so I have been using a lead one, with a piece of 2x4 to prevent damage). Not even a budge. Even sprayed all up in the place with WD40. Any chance that the orig rotors were riveted to the hub or anything (seen that before too).

 

[wraith]

No--your problem is quite normal. I wish I could tell you what size bolt I used to screw into the holes in the rotor, but they were ones that were left over after I took off the stock exhaust system for my Borla. They were the bolts used on the hangars for the stock exhaust, and they screwed right in no problem. I first tried the bolts that came with my steering wheel puller, but I think the thread pitch was different on those. Just get a screw and start turning them in one at a time and the rotor will pop off.

Sam

 

[Elmo]

Well, if your rotors DO have threaded holes, like the rear rotors do, then most likely you need a set of good 12MM bolts from what I remember.

But I don't recall OEM rotors for 1st gen ever having any. *shrug*

(I've been wrong about other things before though)

Let us know how it turns out...

E

 

[Diablo]

Well, it turns out it did have the 2 holes for the screws...now this is where things took a turn for the worst. I went into my bucket of bolts, found one that kind of fit, and thread it in...a little more resistance than usual, but thouhht it would work. Anyways, the thing starts free-wheeling. Wouldnt go in further, and wouldnt come out! Stripped it. After messing with it for awhile, I decided to just hack it off, put the pads back on, hope the rotor will be ok, and forget about this nightmare of a brake job .I have never had a car I loved so much to drive and hated so much to work on...nothing is simple with these things. Even the calipers have to have several springs/ retainers, shims etc. unlike anything I have ever seen.
Arrgggh. But thanks guys just the same.

 

[countach]

get a nice meaty rubber mallet & whack it till it pops off

 

[wraith]

Okay, I didn't mention it, but I did the same thing, thats why I told you which bolts I used for the passenger side since I too fucked up the driver side bolt holes. I ended up making a T out of 2x4s and used a pair of big C-clamps which I ran down btwn the head of the T and the back of the rotor. I use a big pliar to run the C-clamp down until the clamp almost broke (it was bending!) Then I wacked at the rotor with the hammer after heating up the rotor with a propane torch. It came off after that. Also, it was soaked overnight with PB blaster.

Sam

 

[OhioSpyderman]

get a nice meaty rubber mallet & whack it till it pops off

OUCH!!!

 

[brainfood]

if it is rear rotors make sure your ebrake isnt on

 

[Diablo]

Hmmm...glad to know i wasnt the only one, Sam! I might try your clamp advice on the weekend. I cant say it enough guys, the pounding with a rubber mallet isnt going to do it. I'm a 6ft, 200lb hockey player, and have repeatedly pounded on it with a LEAD hammer and not even a budge. To make matters worse, the brakes are all screwed up now. (yes they were the fronts that I was doing). Now when I press the pedal to stop, it goes REAL low, and feels spongy. If I press it immediately again, it is high and firm like it should be. Stuck caliper piston (s)? There doesnt seem to be a hydraulic leak. Almost feels vaccuum related, but I dont see what could have been disrupted, and a vacuum leak would cause the car to run rough overall as weel, right? I never imagined a simple brake job would result in all this headache.

 

[Diablo]

TTT