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The New Super Pimp
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
no one take this as an insult but were there any problems with 91 stealth tt's compared to 92's or 93's. you know what i mean because whenever the first year a new car comes out there are usally bugs in it that are fixed in the second run or second year of the car. just wondering because i'm lookin at first gen tt's to buy and can use any helpful info i.e. common problems with them.

thanx:cool:
 

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Some say the 5spd trannies aren't as robust as the 6spd, can't vouch for this since my 5spd still works great at 110k. Also heard that the cranks in the 1st gen cars had some probs in the beginning, but I also had no probs with this for over 100k. Frankly there is very little reason to choose a 93 over a 91, all a matter of tastes and appearance. I like the lines of the 91 best, and have been quite happy with my 91 TT since picking it up in early 94.

Lord Warlock
 

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Head of Society of Bob
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I think there were a couple of very minor changes. Supposedly, the climate control screen on the 91 was at an angle that made it glare a lot and was hard to read, so they changed the angle for 92+.

One thing I'm sure about is that the shifter was shortened for 93+. 91's and 92's had this huge long "truck shifter", while the 93 got a much shorter, and IMO, better looking one.

93 also went to 4-bolt over 2-bolt.

There was also some standard and optional stuff on the 93 that wasn't there on the 91. Keyless entry, sunroof, stuff like that.

I actually asked exactly this same question about 2 years ago, when I was looking for mine. link here. Good luck with your purchase.
 

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yea, i have heard the crank is better, the shifter is better, you get the stronget 4 bolt, and dont you get the 25 spline rather than the 18 spline too? also you have an OBD I rather than an OBD II or hybrid or whatever came later (maybe the 93 was the hybrid, i can't remember). i think overall the 93's were the best year for this car if you want to go real fast. this is when the 4 bolt main would come into play and the gearing would be better in the 5 speed than the 6 when trapping in the 130 ish range that our fastest cars do (over drive in gears 4 5 and 6 for the 6 speed right?). also if you want to launch hard a lot, you definatly want the 25 spline. oh, the OBD I matters because you can't use a datalogger on the OBD II but then again you should just get a standalone and data log with that anyway;) . i also think that the AEM EMS will not work on the 99's because of the ECU wireing but this probably does not matter to you because you are looking at a stealth and a first gen.
 

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The 93's came with better looking factory radios and 6 pack Pioneer CD changer was introduced.

I test drove a 92 and couldn't believe how long the shifter was compared to the 93.

My 93 can make use of the pocketlogger. I think 94-95 is the hybrid OBD version.

Personally, I'd pick the 93 over 91-92.
 

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Don't know about 93 Climate control but the 91 is no big deal. You only have a problem if direct sunlight is hitting the display. Besides, how many times do you need to look at the climate control screen once you have set it?
 

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The only reason I'd get a 93 over an earlier year is because of the stronger output shaft/transfer case. The stronger 4 bolt is nice, but no one is making enough power to prove it insufficient, and the other stuff like the AC and shifter are such minute and easily fixable problems, I wouldnt consider those significant enough to justify not buying a car for. Plus they are easy to fix - I cut and rewelded my shifter. It took a half hour, and was free, and is at the perfect length to me, even shorter than the 93's. The AC angle never bothered me, but if it did it would take 15 minutes, most likely less, to fix that.
 

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The Reality Of Tomorrow
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My $0.02 (or whatever it's worth)...

First off, I'd like to know why people think the 6-speeds are "stronger" than the 5-speeds. Are the gears stronger? Synchros? What exactly makes it stronger? I've seen it said many times that the 6-speeds are stronger, but have yet to see why. Not to say I don't believe it, but I would just like to see solid evidence. I know that the 1G aluminum transfer cases are weaker and more prone to cracking than the ones on the 2nd gens, and the 18 spline output shafts are also more prone to stripping than the 25 spline. Those I will not refute. My TC does not leak, but my output shaft is slightly worn. I think that could have been somewhat prevented had Mitsubishi required the shaft to be lubricated with some trans oil/fluid on a yearly basis, but they did not.

Also, the differences in crankshafts are not significant, IMO. The 4-bolt vs 2-bolt arguement doesn't really hold water for MOST TT 3/S's, because we just don't make enough horsepower to run into problems. I know for DSMs the different crank support setups have bearing on crankwalk, but I haven't seen many 3/Ss with that problem. I've heard of some 1G cranks warping and that may be true due to the 1st gens not being forged, but I still think it is a rare occurance and doesn't warrant being held against the 1Gs. The best thing the 2G cranks have going for them is probably longevity... they will last longer... how much longer? Who knows... and I'll bet that most of the times something else will give out before you have issues with the crank. When I was looking for a VR4 I read all about the differences and in the end I didn't think either way was a big deal. I was very close to buying a '94 VR4 w/ 81k but the seller was very flakey so I found my '92 in Oregon and had Travis (god bless 'em) test drive and the car was just pristine.

Here I am, almost 4k miles later. Aside from a slightly worn output shaft and driveshaft carrier bearings that need replacing my car is trouble free. All of my electronic gizmos work, 4ws, active exhaust, active aero, ECS, etc. Car has been very good to me.

I think that if these cars are taken well care of from day one, that they are very reliable. A lot of times many people on here are the 2nd and 3rd owners and they really don't know the history, even if it has low miles or think it has a well documented past. People are often just looking for the best deal rather than looking out for that car that has been maintained well and they get bit for it. Be meticulous in your search, and make sure you find out the car's maintenance history... drive the car or have someone drive it who knows how the car should feel/respond, and just make sure you look over the car.

Again, just my $.02

-m
 

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My $0.02 (or whatever it's worth)...
I agree with your points. I keep hearing people talk up the 93 and later years as being more dependable, and built stronger, and a belief that the 6spd is better than a 5spd. I've had my car since it had 30k miles, since feb 94, and the car went over 100k which is my definition of a useful life of a vehicle, with no major work other than the 60k and 120k (at 104k) and a clutch at 60k.

I see no advantage to a 4 bolt main block unless you are running extremely high rpms. Yes a 4bolt should be stronger, but is it really? Seems that more people with 93 and later cars have spun bearings or blew pistons than the 1st gens that I've seen on the board.
And 6spds seem to aid the gearing for a higher top speed, but the 5spd should get you there quicker by allowing you to pull in the upper gears longer and hold boost higher. And they all seem to be deficient in protecting synchros. This is not a Heavy duty racing tranny, it is a production one, and therefore can't take constant abuse or powershifts, if shifted sedately, the tranny seems able to last forever. I'm on my 2nd motor, but still have my first transmission, and all my synchros are in good shape. I also have reservations that a late gen can go much faster top end than a 1st gen. I've seen the car hit 165, and while the speedo may have been off slightly, I'm positive we could have hit over 170 on the factory speedo with my 5spd in its stock configuration with no mods. Due to the age of the vehicle, I don't intend on seeing what the car could do now with all the mods, as long as my midrange is strong I'm happy.
Very few people can say they've driven a 3S product for almost 9 years, and out of those had their cars last as long. (I'm pretty sure I had the speedo gear changed at 60k)

Transfer cases? Seems to be a late gen problem moreso than 1st gens, take a look at the recall thread and who has what there. My TCase had no leaks when had 120k and engine swap done- and they say ours is the weak link, think someone had their facts mixed.

First gens look sharp, go fast and last a long time if not trashed daily. I wish every car I've owned lasted as well as this one did. If there were (reasonably priced) new ones, I'd consider getting one. Instead I chose to rebuild my old one and it is well on its way now.

Lord Warlock
 

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The Reality Of Tomorrow
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Lord Warlock said:

I agree with your points. I keep hearing people talk up the 93 and later years as being more dependable, and built stronger, and a belief that the 6spd is better than a 5spd. I've had my car since it had 30k miles, since feb 94, and the car went over 100k which is my definition of a useful life of a vehicle, with no major work other than the 60k and 120k (at 104k) and a clutch at 60k.
Right on Warlock. You've been around these cars much longer than I have so I definitely respect your insights. I've had two 3/Ss. I had a '95 R/T TT that blew it's motor, messed up a few valves and had a stripped output shaft @54k. The car was completely bone stock. My current 1st gen VR4 was on the original clutch until I replaced it @ 72k! The trans had never been out of this car before.

Why such a night and day difference when you'd think the newer, less mileage R/T would be in better shape? Maintenance! The former owner of the Stealth was a complete knucklehead, and he fucked himself over with that car (I bought it after he messed it up). Whereas the previous owners of my VR4 were the original owners, and serviced the car properly. Now the car shows it. Ask MoparJim or Travis what they thought about it and you'll see. I've looked through the paperwork on the former owner was very meticulous, hell he had them replace the entire radio because of a wierd noise coming from behind the dash while he had his warranty. The car has never had major issues, and when it needed service (60k) it got it done promptly.

I don't think any of us should complain about our cars sometimes having trouble lasting past 100k - they are 300hp+ sports cars! We should be so lucky! Take care of your 3/S - 1st or 2nd gen, and it will give you a lot of love back. Make sure before you buy that you know the history and try to give the car as good of a look over as possible and you should be just fine... 1st gen, 2nd gen... it doesn't really matter. How well you take care of it as well as how well it has been taken care of well determine how good the car will be in the future.

-m
 

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The New Super Pimp
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thank you everyone. i enjoy hearing the pros and cons. another thing i could use help with is what should i look for? I'm looking at 2 91's both claim to have rebuilt engines within the last 30000 miles "need to find out thier definition of rebuilt" but anyway how should it feel i know basics like pulling to the right or left but anything else i.e. lag, stumbles, boost guage, leaks. any help i will love. i used to drive a 94 base sohc but haven't felt the raw power of the tt's so any tips tricks are welcome. any major work should be recorded somewhere but where; internet?

thanx hope to be joining the tt's real soon:p
 

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anyone live in S. CALi in the OC area. willing to help me out? when ever i find a vr4 worth looking at. since i dont know much about these cars.
 

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need to find out thier definition of rebuilt
Its been my experience that a rebuilt motor, although better than an old motor, is more susceptible to damage or blowing up than an OEM block would be. Find out if they replaced the block with a new one, or if they just rebuilt the orig motor, and then what work was done on it included in the rebuild. At a minimum, would expect the lower end bearings to be replaced, all seals, gaskets, and all new seals in the heads, valve lash adjusters, new lifters etc. The only thing I didn't replace on mine was the valves which looked good at the engine swap time. Also would expect water pump and oil pump to be replaced, and timing belt and tensioner.

I would also be expecting a slew of other products included in the rebuild, but those are the primary ones I'd be concerned about for now.

Lord Warlock
 
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