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R

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Discussion Starter #1
Runs fine when cold. After reaching operating temperature the front-most ign coil doesn't fire and soon the CHECK ENGINE light comes on. Runs on 4 cylinders. After cools down again, runs fine until reaching operating temperature. Tried $ 140.00 coil set from Autozone. No help, they kidly let me return it. Anybody know what diagnostic code 1 is? HELP!
 

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Sorry i don't know what that code means. but...i had the same or similar problem soon after i purchased my car. so i changed the plugs and plug wires(im guessing the wires had more to do with it) back to the factory parts and...presto, problem gone.
kevin calvano 93sl
 

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Lovbyts
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When a coil goes bad that is how it works. It works fine until it gets hot then it stops. I have had a couple coils in other cars do the same thing. Just get a new coil pack. Simple fix.
 
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Ray, how do you know if your car is only running on 4 cylinders? Does it hesitate when the other two cylinders stop firing? The condition that you described seems similar to a hesitation problem that I'm currently having. My VR-4 works fine when the engine's cold but once its warmed up, the car will start to hesitate at 3000+ rpm and the check engine light will go on. If your car is hesitating, please keep me inform of any progress that you may make. Meanwhile, I'm gonna try to get the ignition system check as soon as possible. Thanks in advance for any info and good luck on your search for the fix.

-Kon 91' VR-4
 

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I have the same question : How do you know it is running on 4 cyl ? It is also possible that the ignition power transistors do have a problem. If it is true that it only runs on four cyl. then it is possible that one of the transistors is getting temp problems. You may also consider to change this module too.
 
R

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Yes, it hesitates and looses lots of power when this happens. It will barely idle either. I know that its running on 4 cylinders because I can pull the plug wires one at a time and the front 2 don't spark or change how it runs when removed. I have tried a new coil pack with no improvement. The dealer probably did the same as I and guessed it is the coil. Likewise when I asked what the diagnostic code was they didn't know. I left it an extra day for them to read the codes, but I doubt if they looked at it again, suspect they just wrote "Code 1 - bad ignition coil" on my receipt just to passify my request. They wanted $ 260.00 for the coil and $ 100.00 labor. I changed the coil in the Autozone parking lot twice my self in 15 minutes. Have sense found that codes 44, 52 and 53 cover the three coils and/or the power transistor unit. I think that running on 4 cylinders is a "LIMP-IN" condition. Allows you to limp home, but makes it obvious that one needs maintainance.

[This message has been edited by Ray (edited December 10, 1999).]

[This message has been edited by Ray (edited December 13, 1999).]
 
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