Mitsubishi 3000GT & Dodge Stealth Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys as some of you know i'm new to this forum and I don't have a car yet(I'm in highschool). Anyways, let's get to my question.

When I was little my dad had a used Vr4(he sold it a while ago). He said that the motor often gave him problems. I thought to myself now that maybe he bought a poorly maintained one.

So I want to know when I get one, what are the main things to look out for. What should I check/replace first thing?

Internet is useless when it comes to questions like this soI want to hear from people who actually put their hands with this motor.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
In my limited experience the biggest issues I have are personal inexperience with the platform and mainly correcting issues left by the previous owners, most of it being wiring. If you jump into a fixer upper as your first 3s (like I did) you're probably going to have a bad time. If you get one in good shape that hasn't been fucked with to hell and back you'll have a much easier time correcting one problem at a time as they arise.

These cars are all 20+ years old now, it's not a matter of "if something wears out" but rather "when something wears out." Thankfully we don't have much in the way of ticking time bombs of catastrophic failure. They're awesome cars especially for the money but start with something solid for sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Unless you are going to pay a premium I would expect them to all be poorly maintained. And as mentioned even the well cared for ones are still 20+ YO. I wouldn't expect any 3s to be as reliable as a similar priced \ probably much newer honda or toyota of your flavor.

The bigger problem IMHO is finding a competent shop when you do have trouble. My first car was a 3S and I was always having drama with incompetent mechanics. I eventually sold it and bought a 3rd gen f body that I could work on myself and any mechanic was familiar with.

If you are set on 3S then make sure 60k service is done (recently) and oil pan is not dented in. I would also make sure the trans works well. Getting it pulled and disassembled for something small like syncros gets expensive fast, if you aren't doing your own work.
 
Joined
·
17,243 Posts
When they were new they were reliable. Some of the repairs we've seen would make baby Jesus weep... Don't expect any used parts to work without a rebuild.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
As originally designed and built, the 6G72 TT motor at 320 crank HP is bullet proof. Mine had not much more than a MBC set to 13lbs and a K&N - I got >150,000 very hard street and track miles out of it over 20 years and it never, ever failed to get me to wherever I was going and back home again.

Back in the day, modded motors were pretty unreliable - mostly because we didn't have the after market parts (especially ECU's) and there was a lot "well lets see what happens if i do this".

Now, we have ~30 years of 6g, 4g and DSM experience to look to. So there are well established routes to anything from reliable 500WHP daily drivers all the way to 1400HP drag queens

The biggest problem is knowing what you are starting with. Its really hard to find a well maintained but stock TT - but that's absolutely the best place to start - unless you have access to one modded built by a reputable builder with a known history.

I'd hate to turn you off your passion but a beater TT of unknown provenance would be the last place I'd want to start out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
As originally designed and built, the 6G72 TT motor at 320 crank HP is bullet proof. Mine had not much more than a MBC set to 13lbs and a K&N - I got >150,000 very hard street and track miles out of it over 20 years and it never, ever failed to get me to wherever I was going and back home again.

Back in the day, modded motors were pretty unreliable - mostly because we didn't have the after market parts (especially ECU's) and there was a lot "well lets see what happens if i do this".

Now, we have ~30 years of 6g, 4g and DSM experience to look to. So there are well established routes to anything from reliable 500WHP daily drivers all the way to 1400HP drag queens

The biggest problem is knowing what you are starting with. Its really hard to find a well maintained but stock TT - but that's absolutely the best place to start - unless you have access to one modded built by a reputable builder with a known history.

I'd hate to turn you off your passion but a beater TT of unknown provenance would be the last place I'd want to start out
Hey! Good to see you again!
With all the info that everyone shared, it helps me alot. I won't plan to run stock internals forever. In the future, I might save up some cash and go with some forged internals like wisecos/ross.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Hey! Good to see you again!
With all the info that everyone shared, it helps me alot. I won't plan to run stock internals forever. In the future, I might save up some cash and go with some forged internals like wisecos/ross.
You can actually make good power with stock internals provided that 1) they are in decent shape and 2) you manage fuel, timing and heat accurately. This is easier now than it used to be because now we have programmable ECUs and much better sensors, injectors and instrumentation.

Much of the challenge in the past, was that we were pushing the envelope on knock and heat with limited ability to know where we were or control anything if we did.
 

·
One fix at a time
Joined
·
7,760 Posts
Get a good tune and even 400AWHP is very achievable on a bone stock motor. 450AWHP and you're nearing the reliability of a cast crank 2-bolt 91-92 motor but with a forged crank or a 2G motor you're good up to 500AWHP reliably just don't let the motor knock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,810 Posts
Super reliable when you are responsible with the power, especially the NA Cars, check the oil regularly (couple times a week at least), and do the required maintenance as needed with quality parts and fluids.

The current engine I am using in my 1994 3000GT, had over 300,000 miles on it before it finally let go, I am responsible for most of them, and responsible for it's cause of death - I wanted to do a experiment that I knew would probably cost me the engine, and eventually it did, but not as quickly as I thought.

Dropped it off at my machinist for a few months with a spare forged crank, and its back running again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,787 Posts
I'll give you a honest hard truth. This is coming from someone that bought one when he was 17.
Don't mean to tell you a fking story. but I feel it best way for newcomers to understand.

I basically Dodged a Bullet but not for too long.
When I bought a 93 TT, it was under its value and I knew I'd probably need engine for it one day. Told my Pops that.

You do not want this as your first car, unless you compression test and check inside oil pan/bearings before you buy. (Which probably no one will allow that)

If It's N/A you have a little less to worry about as can get JDM swap easier for it/ Cheaper.

Was pretty solid for 3 years straight. I got her at 120-125K miles I think.
But was burning some oil.

It threw a Rod I believe. I paid myself $2400 I think, found good swap.
But I told my father I believe I need rebuild not a used engine.
We bet on it. I bet it wouldn't last. I was right. Like Year Later I met Steve/Dave and they showed me it was slowly spinning a bearing.

So my Father Felt responsible/Lost the Bet lol.
He paid for the rebuild. But there was a problem I didn't know that didn't come back until 10 years from the rebuild... like couple months after they rebuilt the motor, A Oil Line blew for short distance. I kept topping it off..
I was still very young at the time. Or I'd just get it towed right away. Leak seamed bad, but thought it wasn't that bad.

Dave/Ray fixed the damaged bearing and the oil line. We thought were fine.. I'd change the oil religiously, rock solid for 10 years... 10 Years Later when we upgraded turbos/refreshed Transmission (My Clutch was dying). We found it was spinning a bearing bad. Basically Dead after short while with more power on it.

Oil Pressure is everything on these cars. Ray Says 99% of the deaths are from oil starvation/dented oil pans etc.. So other causes are oil leaks/not checking your oil./oil level.

So if you can be on top of stuff like this... Then it's easily 300K+ Mile Motor.
If your on a old Healthy motor, You probably need redo Valve Seals.
Some say these cars a very difficult to work on. I somewhat disagree. Once you get battery out and some pipes out of the way it's easy.
I did all these myself with minimal effort or just followed photo guides. Changed Starter (5-10min Job), Alternator (A B*** but after you do it once it was easy 2nd time, (someone gave me a bad rebuilt Alternator, that tested fine for short while), Clutch Slave Cylinder (20Mins or so, Easy just got get battery out), Fuel Pump Fuse (Easy but hard to locate), Turbo intake Pipes (Most were easy, had few cracked with age), Trailing Arm from accident (Not so bad but my old 1 was fked up), Full Drive Shaft (Carrier bearing was worn, 15mins with lift, Fking Easy)
Turbos are hard to change, it's usually a drop the engine job. Some pros can do it without dropping it though.

As far as electrical goes. I used it for a while but sent my 2 computers to Rymer for brief restoration. It was very affordable, I did as preventative measure.
My Experience has been fantastic. I had only 1 issue but was partly my fault. I had my fuse box burn somewhat because I didn't pay attention to my old Fog Light wires and ignored their poor state. But didn't stop her from running well with all electronics working. (Wear and Tear replaced, Crank Sensor(Only time I got stranded), Fuse for Fuel Pump died, easy fix)
8 years later it just randomly caused radio/dome light to stop working.
I am in process of new motor+ Changing my Fuse Box anyways.

TT 92-93 25 Spline 5 sp Trans is fking bullet proof. 200K on mine but I finally got it refreshed. Needed synchros and a clutch..

I have a passion for these cars so that's why I am so attached.
And the fact I didn't have to worry about my car for 10-13 Years and it took care of me. Getting 24-29MPG for a while. But now I live all City and will have High HP, so probably 14-19MPG. I worked at a dealership for 3 Years and Nothing I drove felt as comfortable, great seating position, great visibility in this type of form factor car. I drove a lot of shit...

Finally the reason I still own my 3s?
I probably wouldn't still own it today if it was for this huge thing that happened. in 2011 someone rear ended it while I was a sleep. Luckily it completely destroyed their Nissan Maxima that hit it. So they couldn't hit and run. I fixed it for $275 myself. Drove it for 9 months then finally fking progressive paid (I had liability) They cut me a check for $7800. so... I bought it back. paid of all my debt, paid some for school.. Basically drove my Dream car for 13 years for free... Does it get better than that??
Now it's payback and will take care of it.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top