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Discussion Starter #1
well i set one of the fastest times this day, it was 50.6 on a fast course. fastest of the day was 48.xx with a completely built vette, and a built mini cooper was behind him by a fraction of second. Suprisingly faster than most of the porsches, built syclone, sti's, and that cobra. So im still top of my FS class. If i had some slicks i could turn a lot better! one day soon, galant is still suckin my wallet dry.












 

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Discussion Starter #2


 

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Discussion Starter #4
pics work for me? i think photobucket may be having issues. its not loading the website for me.

thanks =)
 

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the 3S whisperer
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looks like jason(the dent dude) got his cyclone tuned. how did he do? ill have to try that someday when i dont work on a sat. nice pics!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
looks like jason(the dent dude) got his cyclone tuned. how did he do? ill have to try that someday when i dont work on a sat. nice pics!
well its on sundays so make it happen =)

him and I were putting down about the same times if i remember correctly. he was running too rich IMHO. almost looked like a diesel haha.

thanks lawdogg!
 

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Looks like you are doing well!
I would like to try mine in a autox track around here.
Did you do anything to your suspension?
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Looks like you are doing well!
I would like to try mine in a autox track around here.
Did you do anything to your suspension?
Thanks!
you should, its a lot of fun. you really learn the limitations of the car on the course.

All i have is the tein s-tech springs, but those springs drastically improved the cars handling, i see higher speeds, less nose dive, quicker turn-in response.

I did kind of lose third gear over the weekend. either synchro or just fluid. but if its synchro ill be tearing it down for early winter build lol. and ill throw in some coilovers while im at it =)
 

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you should, its a lot of fun. you really learn the limitations of the car on the course.

All i have is the tein s-tech springs, but those springs drastically improved the cars handling, i see higher speeds, less nose dive, quicker turn-in response.

I did kind of lose third gear over the weekend. either synchro or just fluid. but if its synchro ill be tearing it down for early winter build lol. and ill throw in some coilovers while im at it =)
I went with the tein h-tech and they work well too. I bought the megan coil overs and drove on the road for about 100 miles and decided they were to stiff, but would be great for the track. Not sure if I am going to keep them, they are like new. I had 1st,2nd, and 3rd synchos replaced about 500 miles ago and they are grinding again.:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I went with the tein h-tech and they work well too. I bought the megan coil overs and drove on the road for about 100 miles and decided they were to stiff, but would be great for the track. Not sure if I am going to keep them, they are like new. I had 1st,2nd, and 3rd synchos replaced about 500 miles ago and they are grinding again.:mad:
cant u buy softer springs for the megan coilovers? make it more streetable.

3 synchros failing that soon? sounds like you have a clutch disengagement issue, not a synchro issue. I would check that before they truly go!
 

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cant u buy softer springs for the megan coilovers? make it more streetable.

3 synchros failing that soon? sounds like you have a clutch disengagement issue, not a synchro issue. I would check that before they truly go!
Thanks,
I will look into different springs.
My master and slave were replaced 20k miles ago and clutch pedal is adjusted right. It does seem to get better after driving 10-15 miles. How else could I check disengagement?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I got this from jackstransmissions. dude definitely knows his stuff!! =)

Please read before driving!
Improper clutch adjustment will destroy your new unit! Damaged synchros due to improper clutch engagement will VOID YOUR WARRANTY!! If we get the unit back damaged due to the clutch, we will know! We will see severe wear on the sides of the synchro blocker ring teeth and friction surfaces, and damaged slider and gear engagement teeth. Please follow the steps below to make sure your clutch is working properly:

1) Have the car running with the e-brake off so it can roll.
2) Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
3) Turn off your launch limiter so the engine can hit 7K RPM.
4) Put the car into 1st gear.
5) Rev the engine up until you feel the car start to move forward.

If the car moves forward below 7200RPM, your clutch is dragging. DO NOT DRIVE UNTIL THE PROBLEM IS FIXED! Unit will also be hard to shift, so DON’T DRIVE OR FORCE IT INTO GEAR! If the car moves forward in the test above or is hard to shift, check each of the following:

1) Adjust the master cylinder under the dash. Video of how to do this on our website Jacks Transmissions LLC — Welcome
2) Bleed your hydraulic clutch system and make sure you have a factory master cylinder from the dealer ONLY! Do not use autoparts store/ebay masters.
3) Check for improperly torqued block-to-bell-housing bolts, flywheel, or pressure plate.
4) There should be 2 dowel pins to properly center the trans with the engine.
5) Check for missing block-to-bell-housing bolts. If any are missing the trans can be pushed away from the engine which will crack the bell housing and make the clutch drag.
6) Make sure the throw out bearing fork is not hitting the bell-housing when the clutch pedal is depressed. Proper pivot ball shimming is on our website.
7) Check for incorrect flywheel step height. Most aftermarket flywheels are stepped too tight.
8) Check for warped flywheel or pressure plate surfaces.
9) You may have a bad clutch master cylinder.
10) You may have a bad clutch pedal ‘z-bar’ (1Gs ONLY).
11) You may have a broken or bent clutch disk due to improper installation.

The unit was tested here at the shop before it was shipped to you. It shifted and ran perfectly here or you wouldn’t have received it. DSM, 3S and EVO transmissions require 2.5-3 quarts of oil. For our DSM transmission rebuilds we recommend factory Mitsubishi 6-speed manual transmission gear oil from the 2005 Mitsubishi EVO MR. This is the best oil to use as it has the perfect blend of friction modifiers to keep the tranny shifting smoothly and prevent gear failure. Gear oil choice is very important and varies based on preloads and synchro blocker ring design, therefore it is strongly recommended that you stick with this fluid for our transmissions. If you are unable to locate Mitsubishi MR 6-speed oil from the Mitsubishi dealer, we also sell the fluid here, or you can use Redline Heavyweight Shockproof 50/50 mixed with Valvoline 80W-90 gear oil. For transfer cases and rear ends, use Redline Heavyweight Shockproof ONLY. It is especially important to use only Redline Heavyweight Shockproof fluid or Mitsubishi dealer t-case fluid in EVO transfer cases. DO NOT use Synchromesh, BG Synchroshift I or II, or Royal Purple. These fluids will destroy synchros and gears and void your warranty! We have confidence that our transmissions are the toughest you can buy but the obvious rules of driving still apply for longest life: Do not slam into gear, Do not shock system (drop clutch), Do change the oil in recommended intervals and Do make sure your components are installed and functioning properly. Smooth and accurate shifting is the key to fastest driving. Please call us at 719-243-5305 or email [email protected] if there is a problem.


PS if it feels better after driving 10-15miles. check your fluid level too, its probably working the fluid through the trans in those miles and your probably just a little low. fill to spill basically on trans fluid
 

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I got this from jackstransmissions. dude definitely knows his stuff!! =)

Please read before driving!
Improper clutch adjustment will destroy your new unit! Damaged synchros due to improper clutch engagement will VOID YOUR WARRANTY!! If we get the unit back damaged due to the clutch, we will know! We will see severe wear on the sides of the synchro blocker ring teeth and friction surfaces, and damaged slider and gear engagement teeth. Please follow the steps below to make sure your clutch is working properly:

1) Have the car running with the e-brake off so it can roll.
2) Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
3) Turn off your launch limiter so the engine can hit 7K RPM.
4) Put the car into 1st gear.
5) Rev the engine up until you feel the car start to move forward.

If the car moves forward below 7200RPM, your clutch is dragging. DO NOT DRIVE UNTIL THE PROBLEM IS FIXED! Unit will also be hard to shift, so DON’T DRIVE OR FORCE IT INTO GEAR! If the car moves forward in the test above or is hard to shift, check each of the following:

1) Adjust the master cylinder under the dash. Video of how to do this on our website Jacks Transmissions LLC — Welcome
2) Bleed your hydraulic clutch system and make sure you have a factory master cylinder from the dealer ONLY! Do not use autoparts store/ebay masters.
3) Check for improperly torqued block-to-bell-housing bolts, flywheel, or pressure plate.
4) There should be 2 dowel pins to properly center the trans with the engine.
5) Check for missing block-to-bell-housing bolts. If any are missing the trans can be pushed away from the engine which will crack the bell housing and make the clutch drag.
6) Make sure the throw out bearing fork is not hitting the bell-housing when the clutch pedal is depressed. Proper pivot ball shimming is on our website.
7) Check for incorrect flywheel step height. Most aftermarket flywheels are stepped too tight.
8) Check for warped flywheel or pressure plate surfaces.
9) You may have a bad clutch master cylinder.
10) You may have a bad clutch pedal ‘z-bar’ (1Gs ONLY).
11) You may have a broken or bent clutch disk due to improper installation.

The unit was tested here at the shop before it was shipped to you. It shifted and ran perfectly here or you wouldn’t have received it. DSM, 3S and EVO transmissions require 2.5-3 quarts of oil. For our DSM transmission rebuilds we recommend factory Mitsubishi 6-speed manual transmission gear oil from the 2005 Mitsubishi EVO MR. This is the best oil to use as it has the perfect blend of friction modifiers to keep the tranny shifting smoothly and prevent gear failure. Gear oil choice is very important and varies based on preloads and synchro blocker ring design, therefore it is strongly recommended that you stick with this fluid for our transmissions. If you are unable to locate Mitsubishi MR 6-speed oil from the Mitsubishi dealer, we also sell the fluid here, or you can use Redline Heavyweight Shockproof 50/50 mixed with Valvoline 80W-90 gear oil. For transfer cases and rear ends, use Redline Heavyweight Shockproof ONLY. It is especially important to use only Redline Heavyweight Shockproof fluid or Mitsubishi dealer t-case fluid in EVO transfer cases. DO NOT use Synchromesh, BG Synchroshift I or II, or Royal Purple. These fluids will destroy synchros and gears and void your warranty! We have confidence that our transmissions are the toughest you can buy but the obvious rules of driving still apply for longest life: Do not slam into gear, Do not shock system (drop clutch), Do change the oil in recommended intervals and Do make sure your components are installed and functioning properly. Smooth and accurate shifting is the key to fastest driving. Please call us at 719-243-5305 or email [email protected] if there is a problem.


PS if it feels better after driving 10-15miles. check your fluid level too, its probably working the fluid through the trans in those miles and your probably just a little low. fill to spill basically on trans fluid
Thanks,
I will check it out!
 
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