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3000GT "Clubsport"

2K views 17 replies 5 participants last post by  Warzone 
#1 ·
Taking notes as always from Porsches Clubsport/RS sub models of the 1990's which came without interior from the front seats rearward, often with a half cage/roll bar, and could be optioned with a lightweight carpeted covering. I'm specifically Mimicing the Porsche 968 Clubsport with a few touches from the Porsche 964 Generation 911 RS. The Carpet is extremely lightweight, mostly due to it having no backing. a 20' x 80" Roll was 8lbs as delivered to my door. I probably used half or maybe a little less. It drastically reduced cabin noise, and the entire feel/attitude of the car while cruising casually. at 75mph depending on pavement and wind direction its consistently 70-74 Decibels, which is close to the same as my 2020 Chevy 2500.



In other news...Weight just keeps coming down, while comfort and refinement improve. Thanks to running out of things to do on the car, I've started obsessing over small details, fixing small issues, fixing/replacing various clips, tabs, pieces of hardware that have resulted in rattles/noise due to poor/30 year old condition. Even started introducing small amounts of Dry Carbon thanks to Eric Von Schupe. Car is 2820lbs. I also swapped out the entire main fuse box and harness over the winter, slowly working my way back towards having factory fans that work 100% on their own/with the ECU. So I can get rid of the ugly aftermarket Switch I'm currently using.



Nice and stock, the only give away here that it actually isn't is the overbuilt Puma GTO Inspired Catchcan setup, and thicccc KoyoRad Radiator.. I've been questioning if I really need either of those things, being NA it requires alot less radiator when being pounded on at the track, I could run a stock sized OEM Replacement TT Radiator, and likely be just fine, as well as shave a few pounds from the smaller liquid capacity of the radiator... Oil Cooling is much more of a concern, but even a stock TT Oil Cooler is sufficient enough for this particular 3/S. This engine doesn't really have much blowby, however it does have moderate condensation build up, especially during the winter that the catch can is great at collecting.



Eventually the body will finally get the proper clean up it deserves, but from 10-20 feet it looks pretty great, and the paints subpar condition makes it look fairly original.



I got a free stock hood from a local due to some damage from a local member... Body work is something I really want to continue improving my skill on.. It's not perfect but saved it, and will work temporarily.

 
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#3 ·
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#8 ·
I would like to get into the low 2700s to high 2600s while keeping the car basically exactly the same as it is now. Same interior, comfort, amenities, cosmetics, etc... At this point means getting into more carbon, and aluminum... But anything I do in Carbon for the exterior will be painted body color for proper OEM-esque-ness. My goal is 2,800 Flat with a AWD Swap, which should add approximately 125lbs.
 
#9 ·
Some photos of the car throughout UMG/Automotion Weekend. What a blast, good to hang out with some fellow 3/S-ers. It was pretty cool stumbling across pictures of my car on social media from Non 3/S'ers who were attending the nearby events.
 

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#12 ·



Taking notes as always from Porsches Clubsport/RS sub models of the 1990's which came without interior from the front seats rearward, often with a half cage/roll bar, and could be optioned with a lightweight carpeted covering. I'm specifically Mimicing the Porsche 968 Clubsport with a few touches from the Porsche 964 Generation 911 RS. The Carpet is extremely lightweight, mostly due to it having no backing. a 20' x 80" Roll was 8lbs as delivered to my door. I probably used half or maybe a little less. It drastically reduced cabin noise, and the entire feel/attitude of the car while cruising casually. at 75mph depending on pavement and wind direction its consistently 70-74 Decibels, which is close to the same as my 2020 Chevy 2500.

View attachment 311341

In other news...Weight just keeps coming down, while comfort and refinement improve. Thanks to running out of things to do on the car, I've started obsessing over small details, fixing small issues, fixing/replacing various clips, tabs, pieces of hardware that have resulted in rattles/noise due to poor/30 year old condition. Even started introducing small amounts of Dry Carbon thanks to Eric Von Schupe. Car is 2820lbs. I also swapped out the entire main fuse box and harness over the winter, slowly working my way back towards having factory fans that work 100% on their own/with the ECU. So I can get rid of the ugly aftermarket Switch I'm currently using.

View attachment 311342

Nice and stock, the only give away here that it actually isn't is the overbuilt Puma GTO Inspired Catchcan setup, and thicccc KoyoRad Radiator.. I've been questioning if I really need either of those things, being NA it requires alot less radiator when being pounded on at the track, I could run a stock sized OEM Replacement TT Radiator, and likely be just fine, as well as shave a few pounds from the smaller liquid capacity of the radiator... Oil Cooling is much more of a concern, but even a stock TT Oil Cooler is sufficient enough for this particular 3/S. This engine doesn't really have much blowby, however it does have moderate condensation build up, especially during the winter that the catch can is great at collecting.

View attachment 311343

Eventually the body will finally get the proper clean up it deserves, but from 10-20 feet it looks pretty great, and the paints subpar condition makes it look fairly original.

View attachment 311344

I got a free stock hood from a local due to some damage from a local member... Body work is something I really want to continue improving my skill on.. It's not perfect but saved it, and will work temporarily.
View attachment 311345 View attachment 311347
View attachment 311346
Sadly ihave a small patch of surface rust on of one my vr4's and it's in a shitty spot.. maybe you can tell me if it's salvageable?

 
#13 · (Edited)
I just did a lot of rust repair work on my Jeep. Goal was to stop the damage, not really to make it show quality. For that area, I’d buy a small sand blaster gun and get out all the rust I could. Then POR metal etcher, and POR-15 treatment. Followed by touch up paint.

I did do Bondo before painting the tailgate, but for hidden inside areas I didn’t bother.



Much easier with single coat paint. No pearl or topcoat. I picked up a pint of white, pearl and topcoat st the local shop last week, about $200.
 
#14 ·
I just did a lot of rust repair work on my Jeep. Goal was to stop the damage, not really to make it show quality. For that area, I’d buy a small sand blaster gun and get out all the rust I could. Then POR metal etcher, and POR-15 treatment. Followed by touch up paint.

I did do Bondo before painting the tailgate, but for hidden inside areas I didn’t bother.
View attachment 311761
View attachment 311763

Much easier with single cost paint. No pearl or topcoat. I picked up a pint of white, pearl and topcoat st the local shop last week, about $200.
That looks nicely done.
 
#15 ·
Something like this worked well for small areas:

I picked up two bags of slag at a local abrasives place for cheap, but most hardware stores sell it too. Avoid silica sand, bad to breath the dust. And plan for the sand to go everywhere…
 
#18 ·
I'm stilll here. Some randoms:








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