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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here are some pics I recently took of the second rebuild. This time all machine work was done by Superior Automotive in Anaheim, CA. They are an excellent shop and really pay attention to detail and quality. Apparently, the exact opposite of Bensons. I've got four pics - posted as attachments.

Here is the knife edge crank and the blueprinted and balanced rotating assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here's the assembled block with the ceramic coated pistons. This time I did not use Swain because that coating apparently didn't last very long. This coating is commonly used in the aerospace industry and claims to be more durable than Swain. Also, a fresh hone on the cylinder walls :)
 

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I'd heard somewhere before that it wasn't safe to knife edge our cranks. Something about a coating on it. I don't remember. You heard anything about it? When I do my N/A rebuild I was going to have the crank knife edged.
 

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Our cranks are nitrited I believe. And it's not neesearilly less safe to knife edge them... You can actually have one re nitrited <sp> for like 50-75 bucks.
 

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Dog Is My Co-Pilot
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Wish I had pics of my heads. Oh well, yours will have to do ;)
 

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i am new here but i still have some knowledge of internal block modifications, knife edging is done so that it "cuts" through the oil at the bottom of the block, thus taking less power then a blunt faced object, atleast thats the way i took it... kind of like smacking the water with your palm, or turning it so your thumb is on the topside of you hand and smackin the water, hop this helps.

Austin
 

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MagnumForceGTO:

That looks really good. Now help me on something. I got my block back from the machine shop. Now I put in new forged pistons a little over sized .039" 8.5:1 compression. The thing is, the edges of the piston is sticing up out of the block... is your like this? is it suppose to be like this or is it suppose to be flush w/ the block?
 

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TheJackal said:
i am new here but i still have some knowledge of internal block modifications, knife edging is done so that it "cuts" through the oil at the bottom of the block, thus taking less power then a blunt faced object, atleast thats the way i took it... kind of like smacking the water with your palm, or turning it so your thumb is on the topside of you hand and smackin the water, hop this helps.

Austin
This isn't qute true... The crank doesn't actually dip into the oil in the pan. At least it shouldn't, if this were the case the oil would become foamy and wouldn't do it's job properly. The oil that does fall on it from the heads, the main bearings, and any misc oil that's whipping around in the crank case cause some friction tho. It's also helping in regards to air and weight reduction on the crank... There's a great thread all about this on DSMtalk if you guys want more info. Look int he advanced section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
As for costs, the first rebuild about a year ago from GT pro was around 7,000 for a Stage IV motor.

For the second rebuild, here are the costs so far. I'm probably forgetting something.


800 - Labor to remove/install engine
735 - New 2nd Gen Forged Crank
300 - 93mm Montero Head Gaskets/Seals/Valve Springs, etc.
2800 - Machine Shop

Here's the breakdown of the 2800 from the machine shop

Parts:

360 - Rods
47 - ARP Rod Bolts
43.50 - Oil Ring Support
13.20 - Spiro-Lox

Labor:

75 - Boil/Magnaflux Block
45 - Press Rods Off & Boil
150 - Knife Edge Crank
125 - Balance Engine Assembly
100 - Hone (select fit) with Torque Plates
12 - Shotpeen 1 Rod
750 - Heads - Disassemble, Clean, Zyglow, Pressure Test, Serdi Valve Job, Port Polish, reassemble
150 - Ceramic coat pistons
100 - Square Deck Block
55 - Clean glass bead pistons, boil, press pins out
100 - resize rod to 2.087
55 - convert to floating pins w/spirolox
45 - Magnaflux Rods
25 - Pin Fit Pistons
55 - Magnaflux Crank
350 - Assemble Short Block
75 - File Fit Ring End Gaps
40 - Asseble Pistons to Rods
 

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You break em, we fix em
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Knife edging is to cut through the heavy oil mist in the crankcase.
Nitriding is only relevant on the bearing surfaces - the counterweight edges do not matter. What you are thinking of is if the crank is machined undersize, the bearing surfaces should be rehardened.
 

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I'd heard somewhere before that it wasn't safe to knife edge our cranks.
I was going to say what Jim said but he beat me too it :)

I will be doing this again, pulling my built motor apart to pauter rods in, so I will also be doing some more work. Knife edged crank, some ceramic coating (where did you get yours done?) I was going to go with swain but if it doesnt hold up then that is kinda pointless, and of course new hone and re-balance :)
 

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What are the various things that can be done to our engines? Aside from stroker kits and worry about heads. Im just talkin about the shortblock.

Forged rods
Forged pistons
forged second gen crank, knife edged
bored out, anyone know the safe max and where to get pistons to fit?
clevitte bearings
balance

what else? any special treatments you can give to the block or anything?

can someone clue me in on ceramic coating and how that could possibly help? seems to me like it would just wear off
 
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