Yes, torch heating is not recommended- an alternative to oven heating would be to heat (elevated) in a pot of oil on a hotplate. Heatguns come in real handy for smaller parts or to expand areas in the cases.Pressing 1st to remove the bearing is a great idea. At the time I had no idea what was behind the bearing. There was no write up I could find on how to do this, so I went part by part. I agree with heating in an oven. I don't have one near my garage. If a torch were to be used, the point of contact with the flame could set the temp too high in those areas.
I have just been doing some very limited homework on the subject. It started as just wanting to install an LSD in my FWD and I began reading the service manual.I haven't gotten that far. This was only meant to include the syncro replacement. You seem to know a lot about it so I will be sure to ask you about it when I am ready.
The ring slides right on very easy. the problem is getting those little springs in there. You have to almost fully compress them and they are pretty stiff.On the detents and springs a large wide hose clamp might be of use. Fit it around the bottom edge, tighten to compress, slip the ring on then just unscrew it to remove.
Just did this on the 5th/rev gears. First step is to take the spring and the key and drop them in the hole. The stepped portion of the key faces out, and the spring has a round recess that it sits in against the inside. These drop into place easily. Next I took a magnet and raised one key until the hole was just clear of the outer ring. Next I shoved the ball into the hole, and gently pushed down on the key while pushing the ball in and pulling the magnet away. Repeat 2 more times.On the detents and springs a large wide hose clamp might be of use. Fit it around the bottom edge, tighten to compress, slip the ring on then just unscrew it to remove.
Does any of this need messed with?I also see no discussion of setting backlash, endplay, preload specs, Transfer drive bevel gear rotating torque, Transfer driven bevel gear rotating torque, spacer sizing of the intermediate gear end play, snap ring intermediate rear front bearing and gear end play, etc.
Probably a good idea, anytime you open it up due to wear. It is required if you replace any component that effects any of the clearances like a bearing, housing etc. Miss having Westcott around for advice. Would not mind hearing from the experts on this one myself.Does any of this need messed with?