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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I am sure you could find a measurement somewhere that tells the service limits. I had one that was grinding so I replaced the ones that take the most abuse. Detents should look like this

 

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I also see no discussion of setting backlash, endplay, preload specs, Transfer drive bevel gear rotating torque, Transfer driven bevel gear rotating torque, spacer sizing of the intermediate gear end play, snap ring intermediate rear front bearing and gear end play, etc.
 

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Pressing 1st to remove the bearing is a great idea. At the time I had no idea what was behind the bearing. There was no write up I could find on how to do this, so I went part by part. I agree with heating in an oven. I don't have one near my garage. If a torch were to be used, the point of contact with the flame could set the temp too high in those areas.
Yes, torch heating is not recommended- an alternative to oven heating would be to heat (elevated) in a pot of oil on a hotplate. Heatguns come in real handy for smaller parts or to expand areas in the cases.
Do you have access to the transmission FSM? It has cross sectional views of the shafts that can explain a lot prior to disassembly.
 

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For reference, here's two more places to get transmission synchros, seals, gears, and other parts.

3S Parts ? Jacks Transmissions LLC
Supercar Engineering

I definitely want to dive into inspecting parts inside a transmission. I have a supposedly freshly rebuilt 5-speed my Quaife and Supercar center diffs will go into but the previous member lied about multiple things so it's something to check into. I know a good portion of everything is in the FSM but it's nice to have pics and a writeup to follow.
 

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I haven't gotten that far. This was only meant to include the syncro replacement. You seem to know a lot about it so I will be sure to ask you about it when I am ready.
I have just been doing some very limited homework on the subject. It started as just wanting to install an LSD in my FWD and I began reading the service manual.

I told a few of the Houston guys that I was going to do mine, and all of them have kinda queued up. So few offer this service, much like fuel injectors, and well, one thing leads to another.:D

P.S. Good selection on the press, by the way. The 12 ton unit bolts together. No likey. 20 ton press is all welded up top. Muy Bien!!!!
 

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On the detents and springs a large wide hose clamp might be of use. Fit it around the bottom edge, tighten to compress, slip the ring on then just unscrew it to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
On the detents and springs a large wide hose clamp might be of use. Fit it around the bottom edge, tighten to compress, slip the ring on then just unscrew it to remove.
The ring slides right on very easy. the problem is getting those little springs in there. You have to almost fully compress them and they are pretty stiff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Some people don't agree with me. I am not an authority on this. I did what worked for me, and it worked out. There are some suggestions on here that could better the process. I'd like to see a real write up from someone that has done this multiple times, and really knows their stuff.....sticky that. The one person that truly know their shit, Chris Hill, is not about to do a how-to. He makes a living at this. So if you want a DIY...here it is...if it blows up...he will fix it lol.
 
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On the detents and springs a large wide hose clamp might be of use. Fit it around the bottom edge, tighten to compress, slip the ring on then just unscrew it to remove.
Just did this on the 5th/rev gears. First step is to take the spring and the key and drop them in the hole. The stepped portion of the key faces out, and the spring has a round recess that it sits in against the inside. These drop into place easily. Next I took a magnet and raised one key until the hole was just clear of the outer ring. Next I shoved the ball into the hole, and gently pushed down on the key while pushing the ball in and pulling the magnet away. Repeat 2 more times.

I am no expert at this but this worked for me.
 

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I also see no discussion of setting backlash, endplay, preload specs, Transfer drive bevel gear rotating torque, Transfer driven bevel gear rotating torque, spacer sizing of the intermediate gear end play, snap ring intermediate rear front bearing and gear end play, etc.
Does any of this need messed with?
 
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If you keep the same case and shafts as a set as they came from the factory you are almost guaranteed to not have a problem. Pretty much the only thing you can set in our transmissions is the bearing pre-load. There are no specs for anything else and not really anyway to make adjustments.
 
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