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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
First, sorry for all that have waited for this. I STILL don't have the bearings but I can do the write up. I will not discuss the dis-assembly as others already have and that's where I learned it. You can find that info at the 3SI wiki .Transmission Rebuild 5-spd AWD Getrag - 3SI Wiki
I will only get into the gears and how to remove, and press. I took lots of pics and will briefly describe each one.

First, you need the required tools. Sockets, wrenches, I recommend magnetic trays also. These are a blessing. Most importantly you MUST have access to one of these.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
After dis-assembly, sort through all this,

and find these.

Don't be scared. If you have made it this far you are definitely competent. The gearing is marked out. This is going to be fun....trust me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Now you also need a required tool. A bearing puller. I THINK I got it at Autozone for around $25. First remove the spring clip.In this pic you see me pulling the bearing on the 1st gear side of the shaft. NOTE that this will bend the race and distort it to the point of it being not usable. It will have to be replaced. I have assembled multi 4x4's to give me the proper clearance.



PRESS!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
After the bearing is pressed you need to remove first gear. This will lift right out as it is on a bearing and free floating.


After you remove that gear you will see this.



This is the first time we get to see what it is we are trying to replace. That is your 1st gear syncro. it has an inner, a brass, and an outer. DON"T TOUCH IT! lol. At this point you need to be VERY aware there are springs and detents that WILL GO FLYING!

Take extra caution removing the following pieces. There is an outer collar with a groove encircling the 1st and 2nd syncro. Tiny parts can shoot across your work area. First pull out the syncro parts.



That's the easy part. Then pull up on the outer collar. Then VERY CAREFULLY slide up the detents, while holding your hands around them.These are spring loaded.

NOTE the spring locations. Mine are up and down....THIS IS WRONG!!! Someone had gotten into this before and made a mess. Yours should be horizontal pressing against the balls/detents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Keep in mind the orientation and markings of the detent holders and place all the tiny parts somewhere safe.



Then remove the bearing.



To get to the 2nd syncro we need to press multiple parts. This will remove 2nd gear, the "dog" and 1st gears inner bearing race



VOILA!



Then you get what looks like this. Identical pieces to 1st gear but do not mix them up.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Now that we have gotten to the innards....you need 2 of these. TOYOTA SUPRA SYNCROS!



Keep in mind this is NOT a Mitsubishi transmission but a GETRAG, which also made stuff for Toyota. These are not only interchangeable, but less expensive.

Coat all parts LIBERALLY with motor oil, before reassembly. DIP THEM. I used assembly lube myself. No such thing as too much here.
Which brings us to.....pressing gears back on.
I hate to say I didn't take a whole lot of pics after this. The pics were just a reminder to myself of what I did. If you got this far you can figure out how to press them back on.
The first gear inner race was a bit tricky and this is how I did it. Keep in mind the snap ring groove. do not get the puller caught on it.



race pressed.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Now this is the hard part. Replacing the detents is a BITCH. I have no pics and they wouldn't help. This is by far the hardest part of the whole thing. I ended up doing it by squashing the springs together with two tiny flat blade screwdrivers. My best attempt was about 7 tries. My worst was closer to 30. PER SPRING. I never knew how many curse words I could combine until that point. After you get them installed, put on the outer collar, replace 1st gear, press your new outer bearing, and install spring clip.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Now for 3rd gear. To get to it we need to remove 5th, 4th, and the "dog"

Remove spring clip
5th


5th removed


4th slides off and as before we can access all the syncro parts....for 4th gear.
You will notice 4th gear syncros are 2 piece unlike the 3 piece for 1st and 2nd. CAREFULLY remove all the spings and flying things as before, paying careful attention to the orientation of the detent outer ring, and the detent holders.



to get the third syncros we need to press 3rd gear with the dog, and inner race.



This will get you to the 3rd syncro.

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Reassembly is as before. 4th gears inner race must be pressed on with either 5th gear or with the bearing puller. Since gravity wasn't working with me on this press (as it was upside down) I taped the syncro mechanism to 3rd and 4th. This is a pic of the 5th gear press. 4th is free floating as are its syncros. It will all fall down if you don't secure all of the assembly to 3rd.



Press bearing and install spring clip.



I didn't get any of this from a manual. If there is a better way, well...good. I figured this out all on my own and I hope it helps somebody.


END OF LINE
 

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If you heat the bearing races, and 5th gear, they will drop right in place. I try to press the least amount possible. For one 5th gear takes some serious force, and can chip sometimes. Also, I've seen holes in machine shop roofs from parts being pressed. The real killer is the transfer case coupler, I always get a really high pucker factor doing those.
 

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Supra synchros!! Nice!

^pucker factor lmao
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
As donnikak said 5th is a lot harder than the rest. I do have a large press though, so it wasn't a problem. He takes a different view than I do though. I am quite leary on using heat on a transmission gear that is heat treated. It just scares me. In my set-up there was no way for anything to go flying. If you want to use heat please research on how it will effect the hardening of the gears. I think if I had would have warmed the 5th gear it would have come off easier, but without careful temperature readings you could sacrifice the integrity of the gear.
 

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well I felt your guide went sideways on the first step:)

No need to mess up that bearing( & have to deal with readjusting preload with a replacement), when you can just press on 1st gear which brings the undamaged bearing with it. Same process as when you remove the needle bearing races.
It's not a really good idea to heat for removal, as the heat will transfer & make the fit tighter-Donnie is referring to heating for assembly....which is paramount- if you don't heat, you've got a great chance at galling the parts together @ assembly.
we're not talking blowtorched cherry red on the gears here- the temps are in the tranny FSM.....heat in the oven.

Be real cautious with those cast press plates, if i had no other alternative than to use those, I would be wearing my full face roadbike helmet & padded leathers for protection-
 

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Drew how much did you pay for the 1st and 2nd syncro? Where di you get them from? Are you going to post the clearance setting process when you get the other parts? As you know I have a bad 3rd gear syncro in the car, and the spare I have needs clearances set, assuming it's good.

If a transmission isn't in a car is there a way to tell if it's good with out taking the gears apart? I'd hate to put this spare in only to find out it's got issues haha.. oh that would suck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
well I felt your guide went sideways on the first step:)

No need to mess up that bearing( & have to deal with readjusting preload with a replacement), when you can just press on 1st gear which brings the undamaged bearing with it. Same process as when you remove the needle bearing races.
It's not a really good idea to heat for removal, as the heat will transfer & make the fit tighter-Donnie is referring to heating for assembly....which is paramount- if you don't heat, you've got a great chance at galling the parts together @ assembly.
we're not talking blowtorched cherry red on the gears here- the temps are in the tranny FSM.....heat in the oven.

Be real cautious with those cast press plates, if i had no other alternative than to use those, I would be wearing my full face roadbike helmet & padded leathers for protection-

Pressing 1st to remove the bearing is a great idea. At the time I had no idea what was behind the bearing. There was no write up I could find on how to do this, so I went part by part. I agree with heating in an oven. I don't have one near my garage. If a torch were to be used, the point of contact with the flame could set the temp too high in those areas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Drew how much did you pay for the 1st and 2nd syncro? Where di you get them from? Are you going to post the clearance setting process when you get the other parts? As you know I have a bad 3rd gear syncro in the car, and the spare I have needs clearances set, assuming it's good.

If a transmission isn't in a car is there a way to tell if it's good with out taking the gears apart? I'd hate to put this spare in only to find out it's got issues haha.. oh that would suck.
The 1st and 2nd were $85 each from Ground Zero Performance, although I can't seem to find them now. After I ordered they changed their website. I got third from 3SX. AWD Transmission Internals - Synchronizers / Synchros Synchro Rings*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts

I think at the time their prices were higher or I would have gotten 1st and 2nd there too. You might want to shop around though. They are probably available for less.

If there is a way to tell, I don't know it. I will go through the clearancing later yes.
 

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I will be buying a 20 ton press soon to install an LSD in my FWD. It looks like I will not have to pull any gears but if I am in there, I might as well replace any damaged synchros or other parts.

Any information on how to diagnose and recognize damage to the synchros or any other serviceable parts?

Does the service manual have good pictures of how the detent springs and working are supposed to look once installed?

Thanks for the post.
 
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