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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm needing to put radiator/fans from '93 VR-4 into my '94 Stealth R/T TT.

The '93 rad. fan uses the 6-pin connector (looks like 2 thermal sensors bottom of rad. under that fan.
My '94 Stealth uses a 4-pin connector. I found a 4-pin DSM plug I de-pinned that plugs into my vehicle harness side. SO, I just need to de-pin my 6-pin fan connector and use only 4 of those wires.

Question WHICH temp sensor (93 rad.) will not be used the right one (red and black wires) or the left sensor (black and green wires). The remaining on-radiator sensor, that's the rad. fan thermal switch yes? (what was the other sensor, rad. temp monitor for ECU?)

My '94 body harness has 4 wires colors: Thick blue w/ green stripe, thick blue w/ yellow stripe, thick red w/ black stripe, and thin black.
The 6-pin connector seems to have 1.thick blue w/ black stripe, 2.thick blue, 3.thick black, (and 4.green and 5.red and 6.thin black)

I have .pdf of manuals 93/94, and I'm not having luck locating any rad. fan wiring info yet.
 

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Is your original radiator faulty, or is it the main fan? Both? If the former, then just swap the '94 fan over. Regardless, you should be ignoring the thermoswitches at the bottom.

If it were me, then I would just cut and transfer the '94 connector, resistor, and wiring over to the other fan, if needed. The ECU references the sensor in the water neck/thermostat housing for fan operation.

In any event, it is good to make sure that your relays are still fine.

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 

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Discussion Starter #3
my 94 fans/radiator walked away, I don't have anything to reference there.

my relays work fine

I really just need rad fan wiring diagrams for the two styles... only point of a thread is info to be up for future people looking at the 4-pin 6-pin difference.
 

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Of course that is one of the most important purposes of a thread, but you did not mention that they were missing to begin with...

The issue with what you are trying to accomplish is that utilizing the 1G thermoswitches means intercepting the 2G low+high relays' switch via ECU. This is probably "easier" to grab from the fusebox. For reference, the one with the black connector at the bottom of the radiator is for high fan operation.

For first generation with six (6) pin connector:
3 - Blue/Black - Low Fan Relay to Thermoswitch #1
4 - Thick Blue/Yellow - Low Fan Relay to Resistor
5 - Thick Blue/Green - Power through Relays
6 - Green/Black - High Fan Relay to Thermoswitch #2
2 - Thick Red/Black - Power to fans
1 - Thin Black - Ground
Thick Black - Ground

For second generation with four (4) pin connector:
*Thick Blue/Green - Power through Relays
*Thick Red/Black - Power to fans
*Thin Black - Ground from resistor
Thick Black - Main Ground from relays' switch
*Thick Blue/Yellow - Low Fan Relay to Resistor
(Asterisk * denotes what you mentioned and have)

Not sure if the stripes are more difficult to notice on your fan side connector, but all of the above is from the FSM (attached to this post)

SO now we are here... for your situation:
Blue/Green to Blue/Green (power)
Red/Black to Red/Black (power)
Black to Black (ground)
Blue/Yellow to Blue/Yellow (resistor)

However, this leaves the two thermoswitches' functionality... which I have already suggested that you ignore. IF you are going to use them for more than plugs in the radiator, then...

2G relay low - intercept blue/black >> #3 blue/black for thermoswitch
2G relay high - intercept green/black >> #5 green/black for thermoswitch
...grounds through black

I have a slight migraine, so you or someone else can double check my notes more than I have already done lol. I have access to both generations of 3/S here as well, so I can always physically verify something, as needed (unlikely with members' input)

-Alan

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Funny, I had to deal with missing 1st gen parts while having 2nd gen parts. We should have traded. Ended up having to buy 1st gen parts, but in your case should be able to just trace and rewire the fans to use the 2nd gen relays.
 

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I had a 2g engine in my 1g and then swapped a 1g water neck onto it - talk about confusing. Now I've got a '92 TT and a '94 TT in the driveway and happy to help if I can but @bboyalan has us covered.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ahh, Alan thank you. Excuse my ignorance of the 1G/2G difference and those thermoswitches. I just made a trip behind shop with flashlight and noted my '93 Chassis does have the same colors and with stripes that you noted so that makes more sense to me now (fan side 6-pin connector the wire colors change slightly).
Still trying to wrap my head around it- so the 2G uses the ECU to control high/low (engine coolant temp sensor B-02 is that sensor used for the gauge reading and ECU data on a 2G, located on coolant neck/cylinder head?).. and neither of the 1G radiator thermoswitches are used anymore huh.
I'll see if I can make the right sense of it tomorrow then with connectors all properly de-pinned and more heat sheathing off the wires so I can see clearly, thanks again.
 

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Ahh, Alan thank you. Excuse my ignorance of the 1G/2G difference and those thermoswitches. I just made a trip behind shop with flashlight and noted my '93 Chassis does have the same colors and with stripes that you noted so that makes more sense to me now (fan side 6-pin connector the wire colors change slightly).
Still trying to wrap my head around it- so the 2G uses the ECU to control high/low (engine coolant temp sensor B-02 is that sensor used for the gauge reading and ECU data on a 2G, located on coolant neck/cylinder head?).. and neither of the 1G radiator thermoswitches are used anymore huh.
I'll see if I can make the right sense of it tomorrow then with connectors all properly de-pinned and more heat sheathing off the wires so I can see clearly, thanks again.
It's much simpler than it's being made out to be... The diagrams with all five relays and both fans can make it appear more complicated then it really is.

Both versions are two speed systems. The 1G has a separate thermal switch for high and low speeds, and the 2G has that function handled by the ECU. You simply need to eliminate the thermal switch systems from the fan harness to duplicate the 2G system.
 

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You are most welcome, and yes, that is correct! The same CTS used for data (not smaller gauge sensor) determines fan operation for 2G 🙂 best of luck!

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Momentary lapse, I destroyed my 6-pin fan connector trying to de-pin forgetting colors were slightly different before referencing location/color-change from my '93 Chassis. So with the red and green thermo switch wires removed (and thermo switch 2 grounds which are tied into other ground pin), I'm left with 4 pins.
2 from the fan motor: Solid Blue and Solid Black
2 from the resistor: black ground (that the 2 sensor grounds were tied with), and blue w/ black stripe.

From my deducing, [motor power] Solid Blue is the RED/BLACK wire, and [motor power] Solid black is the BLUE/GREEN power through relays. Blue/Black from resistor is Blue/Yellow resistor wire and resistor black ground is the black ground. Someone with a 1G could view both sides of the 6-pin connector and mostly be able to see/verify with sheathing/tape in place.
 

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It's much simpler than it's being made out to be... The diagrams with all five relays and both fans can make it appear more complicated then it really is.
I mostly agree, except the equipment side for fan, resistor and sensors wire colors to the six pin connector varies from body harness side of connector as shown in the manual. This makes it a little harder, which I discovered when helping another member with similar issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I mostly agree, except the equipment side for fan, resistor and sensors wire colors to the six pin connector varies from body harness side of connector as shown in the manual. This makes it a little harder, which I discovered when helping another member with similar issue.
Right,
and I've just checked reversing polarity of course does reverse blade rotation, so proper setup is BLUE motor wire positive.

If someone can please confirm, thick red/black is POS(+) side and thick blue/green is NEG(-) power through relays.
 

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I've just checked reversing polarity of course does reverse blade rotation, so proper setup is BLUE motor wire positive.
That should hook to Red/black from body harness.

If someone can please confirm, thick red/black is POS(+) side and thick blue/green is NEG(-) power through relays.
Yes as stated above, power is feed to motor (+) from Red/black harness wire. Not sure what color your Neg(-) motor wire actually is, but yes it should hook to Blue/green wire from motor to both relays for ground control.
 

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One last thing, if your old radiator had a resistor attached to motor bracket as shown in prints. The ’93 fan assembly should have a resistor attached to the bracket, the Black wire from it would tie to all the other Black wires and the other (whatever color) wire from resistor should hook to the Blue/yellow wire at body side of connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
One last thing, if your old radiator had a resistor attached to motor bracket as shown in prints. The ’93 fan assembly should have a resistor attached to the bracket, the Black wire from it would tie to all the other Black wires and the other (whatever color) wire from resistor should hook to the Blue/yellow wire at body side of connector.
correct that's what I've detailed in my posts above.

BTW, new aftermarket replacement radiators are CHEAP,
and this is a great guide to convert radiator fans.
 

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Why don't you just get the proper wiring from one of the many part outs on here?
Can't get it wrong then and no need to ask?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Why don't you just get the proper wiring from one of the many part outs on here?
Can't get it wrong then and no need to ask?
I have made the proper wiring myself. It's done now. Just as the 1994 car was designed.
:)
 

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Glad to hear that you have it figured out!

correct that's what I've detailed in my posts above.

BTW, new aftermarket replacement radiators are CHEAP,
and this is a great guide to convert radiator fans.
Indeed! On that note, on a '96 R/T TT build that I did two years ago, I replaced the main cooling fan with a SPAL unit mounted onto a KOYO V-core. It was as simple as chopping the wires from the fan motor and terminating the pigtail to retain complete, factory operation (CloneECU with Chrome rom and modified temps/tables)

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 
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