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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 1993 dodge stealth and it doesn't run sounds like the timing jumped but all the cams are lined up with the marks on the head is it possible that it jumped on the crank but not the cams? Is there any way I can check it without pulling the lower timing cover off?
 

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Yes, to your first question, and I think the answer is NO on the second question (maybe someone will chime in differently on that one...)...

Bob.
 

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Is there any way I can check it without pulling the lower timing cover off?
Cheap and dirty check is if notch on harmonic balancer is on TDC mark of timing indicator on timing belt cover at same time cams on their mark, more than likely it hasn’t jumped at crank gear. This can be in error if balancer has slipped in rubber bonding to center hub, but it lines up to TDC which is indicated by “T” in below picture it’s probably OK.
Click on image to enlarge
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cheap and dirty check is if notch on harmonic balancer is on TDC mark of timing indicator on timing belt cover at same time cams on their mark, more than likely it hasn’t jumped at crank gear. This can be in error if balancer has slipped in rubber bonding to center hub, but it lines up to TDC which is indicated by “T” in below picture it’s probably OK.
View attachment 300409 Click on image to enlarge
with the cams lined up the notch it at the very top of the balancer no where near the timing indicator just Don't get how it could retard it self. I got to thinking about in theory I should be able to pull the spark plug on cylinder one and the valve cover and find TDC and see if both valves are closed or not. am I correct with this assumption
 

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got to thinking about in theory I should be able to pull the spark plug on cylinder one and the valve cover and find TDC and see if both valves are closed or not. am I correct with this assumption
Yes you can do that to get general idea of TDC, but there is some crank travel at top without piston movement, you wouldn't even need to pull valve cover just use long small rod or screwdriver. But it would also help to confirm how close the balancer notch is. The notch at top of balancer is a major problem if it hasn't slipped in bonding, which is direction it would move if slipping as the load of alternator and /or A/C compressor would pull it that direction.

If notch ends up close to "T" when you check TDC thru plug hole of #1 cyl. that would indicated timing belt did jump at crank pulley, which is not unusual as @OhioSpyderman indicated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes you can do that to get general idea of TDC, but there is some crank travel at top without piston movement, you wouldn't even need to pull valve cover just use long small rod or screwdriver. But it would also help to confirm how close the balancer notch is. The notch at top of balancer is a major problem if it hasn't slipped in bonding, which is direction it would move if slipping as the load of alternator and /or A/C compressor would pull it that direction.

If notch ends up close to "T" when you check TDC thru plug hole of #1 cyl. that would indicated timing belt did jump at crank pulley, which is not unusual as @OhioSpyderman indicated.
Thank you for verifying for me. hopefully the balancer itself slipped because I imagine with it that far off it would cause some damage
 

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Thank you for verifying for me. hopefully the balancer itself slipped because I imagine with it that far off it would cause some damage
Yes it would cause bent valves if that far off, but then again if it's not running (couldn't tell from first post) that would indicate why. The reason you don't need to pull valve cover, is when cams are on their mark the valves have to be closed.

Edit: Just noticed you said it doesn't run, senior moment :rolleyes::).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes it would cause bent valves if that far off, but then again if it's not running (couldn't tell from first post) that would indicate why. The reason you don't need to pull valve cover, is when cams are on their mark the valves have to be closed.
It does not run and it sounds like timing to me thank you for the information. How hard would it be to do valves on these cars I've done valves on a few engines just nothing like this car?
 

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It does not run and it sounds like timing to me thank you for the information. How hard would it be to do valves on these cars I've done valves on a few engines just nothing like this car?
Not that much different than other engines, just that rear head is a little harder to get off. Also keeping cams and retaining caps in right order is important, you’d be surprised how many times the intake and exhaust cams have ended up swapped by accident.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Not that much different than other engines, just that rear head is a little harder to get off. Also keeping cams and retaining caps in right order is important, you’d be surprised how many times the intake and exhaust cams have ended up swapped by accident.
I normally mark my parts with a paint pen so that shouldn't be a issue. How common is it for these engines to crack a piston when they hit the valves?
 

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Unfortunately it did jump timing all cams are 4 teeth retarded from where they need to be
More than likely the exhaust valves are bent, a quick compression check of front cylinders would confirm that.

Balancer did move as well when set in the middle of the dwell on compression stroke the mark is just before the timing indicator
This means only thing you can trust is crank cog gear tooth with dimple on top to raised mark on oil pump housing.
click on image to enlarge
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I got a question I have a receipt that show the timing belt was done 6 years ago but it's only has 163 miles put on it would it be safe to reuse the timing belt with a new tensioner?
 

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If it was me, I would change it.
They are not that expensive, and changing it would give me some piece of mind that it's not going to fail.
I understand the "163 mile" thing, but you have to consider the length of time it was on and tensioned.

Your call....

Bob.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If it was me, I would change it.
They are not that expensive, and changing it would give me some piece of mind that it's not going to fail.
I understand the "163 mile" thing, but you have to consider the length of time it was on and tensioned.

Your call....

Bob.
Thank you for the reply. I'll probably just go ahead and replace it and the related components.
 

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Unfortunately it did jump timing all cams are 4 teeth retarded from where they need to be
Sir, When I change timing belts there is a balance of spring tension at TDC, is could rotate either way. Assume things are ok, re-set your timing belt then crank it over one revolution, by hand and confirm your timing marks. Patience you've got this!
 
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