on a side note, if the 2nd gen ones are so much stronger why not up grade to their trans/transfercase? I mean I read alot of you guys upgrading to a kormex trans (3k) but why not go w/ a 2nd gen setup at that time? is it not a direct swap? do we have a better gear ratio?
That would be great but the bolt pattern is different. The aluminum transfer case wil only bolt to 5 speed tranny. The Steel transfer case will only bolt to 6 speed tranny.
I know it is cheaper to buy the bracket, I'm not disputing that. I'am also not saying don't buy the bracket, cause I want one. What I am asking is when it was time to upgrade to a Kromex trans wouldn't it be smart to just get a 2nd gen trans and and transfer case? And also buy your bracket....if a 2nd gen transfer case bracket were fabricated. I don't want to take this thread on a tangent I was just wondering why more people didn't do this when they were dropping the money on a better trans anyway. I'm just used to build 280z's and with the z you just take the best parts form 240 through 280zx models and put them all in one car. I was just trying to apply that thinking to the GT's. If a 1st gen transfer case w/ your bracket is strong, then a 2nd gen transfer case w/ your bracket is stronger.
Also if you still need a front section driveshaft I have one. email me and we'll take car of it. [email protected]
Kormex tranny is not an upgrade. There's nothing special about it. There's a lot more involved with a 5 speed to 6 speed conversion than just the transaxle and transfer case. Need rear diff, rear axle, etc. It ain't exactly cheap to do.
I know it is cheaper to buy the bracket, I'm not disputing that. I'am also not saying don't buy the bracket, cause I want one. What I am asking is when it was time to upgrade to a Kromex trans wouldn't it be smart to just get a 2nd gen trans and and transfer case?
The overall gear ratio is different between 5 speed and 6 speed, so you also need to change rear differential or else you will burn up your VCU.
The length of the transfer case is different so you need a diffent drive shaft.
If you build a really high horspower car the 5 speed tranny is faster in the qtr mile because with a 5-speed you don't have to shift into 4th before crossing traps.
I have also heard that the 6 speed transmission is also more difficult to remove and install, I don't know why it must be bigger someplace that gets in the way.
Thats a lot of work and $$ when not many people break transfer cases, due to shock loads, in the first place.
hello Jason and everyone, ive been really busy lately and havnt had a chance to post. from my experience, the brakets prolong the inevitable.
which yes is a good thing but not a "fix".
Jason your doing an excellent job here but it just needs to go further. the best way for me to sum it up would be this ie.
this is just for arguments sake and not to scale!! haha
no bracket 1 launch
factory bracket... 25 launches
factory bracket and the top bracket that i made... no difference exept when used on a previously cracked bell housing.
putting a longer bolt in the rear on a factory bracket...35 launches (one of the most common beakage problems as seen in the pics is that rear bolt tearing off)
welding an alunminum strap across the lower rear 2 bolt bosses on the transfer case close to the bell housing....75 launches eventually the whole transfer busted in half leaving the rear section with the brackets and welding all in tact. the lower middle boss tore right off the transfer staying connected to the rear. this also broke the tranny.
welding aluminum straps from first to second boss, then second to third boss (this is all on the bottom) and having brackets lasted far longer than any of the above.
the car is now gone and i never broke it but i do not know if it will last forever. there is no forever with these cars haha.
thats to sum up my hundeds of hours and $$ and dozens of passes at the track and on the street.
in addition to the bracket you have, you need to connect bosses 1,2,and 3 on the CENTER of the bosses. it can not just be on the outside because the bell housing will fail.
those are my results from 1999 untill now with countless 1.5-1.6 60ft runs.
also, kormex (HELLO FRANK!) is correct an the things he is saying. dont look over the basic things. i also dont like to post free info all that much anymore after that NG flamefest started because i happend to share my dyno #s and ets with the board then i ran like garbage because of car probs (12.3 @95 mph) NEVER AGAIN WILL I SHARE THAT KIND OF INFO.
good luck with this project though. just expand it some.
Has anyone ever tried using a 6 speed tranny/transfercase with 5spd rear? With the better rear gear ratio there would this not also improve acceleration? I would like to just plain not have to worry about breaking my transfercase and a 6spd looks like it might solve most of the problems.
Hey guys. Sorry to join the party so late but I have been busy too. (I know how it goes Ray.) All the advise given so far is sound. Frank, Ray, and the members who have broken 5 speed TCs all give valuable info regaurding TC failures. I'll especially back up the claim Frank makes to keep your TCs from leaking. If not to help prevent housing failure then to prevent lock up. They hold what? 1/3 of a qrt? Be safe and repair those TC leaks.
I would like to see the bracket on more than just one side of the TC personally. Why distribute the stress on one side only? I'll add a comment to the "Every thing you need to know about your AWD drive train" thread about this one in the next couple of days. If any of you have not read that thread you may want to do so now. Some good info is on there.
I do not mean to get off topic but CRS synchros are not solid steel. They are exactly OEM. I got htis info from John Davis and Gloria Lind both CRS employees. There is nothing wrong with Kormex synchros. I recommend the OEM ones from CRS mostly because they are cheaper. More on this subject as well as many other subjects can be found on the above mentioned thread.
If you want the exploded views of both 5 and 6 speeds or pics e-mail me at [email protected].
94 VR-4 Panama Green Tan Interior
RPS II, gutted cats, flipped BPV, 3SX control arms, 3SX shift bushings, Red Line, Auto-Meter. Rebuilt TC, transaxle, steering rack, heads, and turbos. 360cc's blue printened with in 1%. New short block. RWD convertion and welded rear end.
I'll add a comment to the "Every thing you need to know about your AWD drive train" thread about this one in the next couple of days. If any of you have not read that thread you may want to do so now. Some good info is on there.
the search is being really screwy for me.. could you post a link to that thread?
PS.. more talk about HOW to lose weight would be kewl
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