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Old 11-03-2018, 01:40 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Default Re: Instrument cluster lights not working.

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........ if fuse legs (spades) are making good contact with spade receiving clips in panel. Have heard of some spade receiving clips being sprung open enough that fuse didn't make good contact.
Door switches maybe, but I you haven't yet checked fuse 19 female receiving clips for being snug to fuse legs (spades) as suggested above in previous post, I would do that first.
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Old 11-03-2018, 02:09 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Default Re: Instrument cluster lights not working.

To clarify some, if you're talking about door buttons that turn interior lights on when door is opened and off when door is closed. Those button switches are simply a ground make/break switch. Although they will control dome and door lights, a problem with them making a ground should not affect cluster or parking lights.
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Old 11-03-2018, 02:20 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Default Re: Instrument cluster lights not working.

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Originally Posted by white93gt View Post
To clarify some, if you're talking about door buttons that turn interior lights on when door is opened and off when door is closed. Those button switches are simply a ground make/break switch. Although they will control dome and door lights, a problem with them making a ground should not affect cluster or parking lights.
Correct. I'm just trying to get the dome light and the door light to work when I have the door open. https://photos.app.goo.gl/PAej1cK97xtYA8TH6

So it did turn out that the driver's side switch was faulty. I checked it with a multimeter, and it was getting spotty continuity, whereas the passenger's side switch would be 0 Ohms when at the top, and OL when at any other position. I'll have to replace the passenger side door jamb switch when I can, but I'm glad I at least got the car to working condition, as far as the interior lights go. The only thing that isn't working is that ANNOYING buzzer when I leave the key and the door's open. I hope that never gets fixed. That buzzer is SO annoying.

This problem was especially hard to diagnose, since if you leave the door open for too long (or the circuit thinks you did) it will cut power to it entirely. I guess I just got lucky today that the switch was closed long enough last night that the auto shut off unit reset and it worked this morning enough that I could fiddle with the switch to see it cut in and out as I pressed it up and down.

For the dashboard illuminator circuit, like I said, I'll get back to that after the winter. We're supposed to get snow on Friday, and the day we get snow is the day I'm putting a cover on the car until the spring. I don't trust a car without ABS or traction control in the snow. I've gotten in to too many accidents that way. Ever since I got my Corolla with ABS, TPMS and traction control, every "OH NO!" incident in the snow always ended up with me hitting the curb or a pipe, and never the other person.

I'm having trouble finding the part number for this.

I found this one on eBay that kinda looks like it: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI-...YZC:rk:31:pf:0
And this one on a dealership's website: https://www.mitsubishipartswarehouse...witch-mr124303

I don't see any MB part number on the switch. All I see is NILES JAPAN, and what looks to be like 74199 or 66174. It's really hard to tell.

Last edited by gir489; 11-03-2018 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 06-20-2019, 02:18 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Mitsubishi Re: Instrument cluster lights not working.

Update on this if anyone was curious. I eventually ran into so many issues with my car, I decided to just tear the thing apart and rebuild it since this was going to happen eventually anyway.

Here are the proverbial straws that broke the camel's back in no particular order:
  • Clogged charcoal canister.
  • Leaking fuel injectors.
  • Gas tank and filler neck was completely rusted out.
  • Rust in the fuel lines.
  • Steering rack was leaking fluid.
  • Driver's side ball joint collapsed.
  • CV boot cracked and dried out the axle grease.
  • Intake manifold completely clogged with black sticky residue due to blowback.
  • Leaking massive amounts of oil from the cam seals.
  • Oil pan gasket dried up and was beginning to fail.

We started with the engine, and as I suspected previously and subsequently confirmed once we took the intake manifold and heads off, there was an animal living in there chewing up the wires. I fixed the break with a butt connector, and the scan tool we used that was complaining about the interior light circuit not working didn't complain anymore, but because the car is completely disassembled right now during the rebuild, I won't be able to test it. But I'm 99% confident that was the issue, since I've literally checked everything else in the circuit.

Here's some pictures of the current disassembly process: https://photos.app.goo.gl/MidfnMKbEuw4hnrW9

We're going to replace all the pistons, we got the heads off, and they're on their way to the machine shop to drill out better slots for the aluminum fuel injectors to sit closer to the valves. We're also having them make it a hemispherical compression chamber to allow more airflow in to the cylinders. We're adding a harmonic balancer to the left of the cams on bank 1 for the supercharger. We're replacing the ECM with a standalone management unit. We're adding lines for a NO2 wet shot. We found a company out in Ohio that will vacuum form us a plastic gas tank, since all I could find online for replacement tanks were the same JUNK tanks that were all rusted already and would just have the same problem as mine. Since we have to drop the tank anyway, we're replacing the fuel lines with steel braided hardlines, and replacing the fuel pump with a higher PSI pump to match the supercharger's needs. We're replacing the clutch and flywheel with an aluminum flywheel and racing clutch. We're replacing the struts with coil overs, putting brand new CVs in both sides, replacing the engine mounts with polyurethane mounts since the rubber ones are all cracked and dry rotted. We're replacing all the copper braided wires with copper core wires.

That's about the gist of it. I've already replaced the water pump, alternator, radiator, entire AC system and we ordered all the necessary parts. We're removing nonsense like the cruise control and some of the unnecessary vacuum lines to reduce weight. I'm expecting to be finished with the rebuild sometime in late July, early August. Considering how much progress we've been making already, I expect to keep that projection.

Last edited by gir489; 06-20-2019 at 02:57 AM.
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