I looked at some previous articles, but I'm not finding my problem there. New here so I may have missed it somehow, but here's what I've got and any help would be appreciated. I had posted with the yahoo Spyder group, but no one has been able there to help. This is what I posted there. Sorry if this is long winded. My car is a "95 VR4 Spyder all original now with 78K on it.
Ok, for the better part of a year my alarm (factory) would go off when unlocking the driver side door with the key. Most of the time I could get it to work right by locking the key to the left then turning it slightly to the right. My fob hasn't been working, I can hear it trying to lock and barely makes a clicking noise without movement to unlock. The passenger side door plays the unlock/lock game with me when I try to unlock it with the key. Opened up the driver side door this weekend and cleaned and greased the key switch, but that didn't help. I read that the lock actuators have a piece of rubber that deteriorates and causes the unlock/lock situation. I wonder if they also affect the alarm. As of now I have pulled the horn fuse and relay from under the hood and the alarm fuse from under the dash to stop the horn and the lights stop flashing after a few minutes. Anyone else had this gremlin?
Originally I bought my VR4 Spyder without a fob, ordered one from eBay. Reprogrammed it and worked fine for about a year. Then it stopped unlocking, but would still unlock. Next came the alarm problem. Not sure when the machine gun door lock started on the passenger side, but at some point I discovered that when I tried to use the key on the passenger side. I swapped out the etacs, but there was no change. I'm driving it again today and I'll see if the alarm is better. The only direction the passenger side actuator works is when I lock the driver side door using the manual lever, it doesn't work unlocking. Seems like the driver side isn't working at all. It's like the electric motors in them are dying. Any one know how to test the actuators, which of the 4 contacts to power for lock and unlock? I think I should start there.
Okay, my run down: Passenger side door: Key locks/unlocks and doesn't affect driver side. Manual lock slider locks/unlocks and doesn't affect driver side. Power lock button locks/unlocks and doesn't affect driver side. When the alarm is triggered, locking the passenger door with the key turns off the alarm.
Driver side door: Key locks/unlocks and locks passenger side, doesn't unlock passenger side. Manual lock slider locks/unlocks and locks passenger side, doesn't unlock passenger side. Power lock button doesn't function, but checked with ohm meter and switch does work, not sure how to check it under power (see question below).
Molded silicon (RED RTV) bump stops for the actuators and no more machine gun actuator on the passenger door. (driver side was okay, but did replaced old worn bump stops).
So my question are could the door key lock switches or contacts in the actuators be a problem and is there a wiring schematic available for the door locks and alarm circuit? Thanks, Mike
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There is a thread buried in here somewhere that talks to a rod on the driver's side, inside the door, that over time bends and when you unlock the door it is not actually deactivating the alarm/activating/deactiving a switch/servo. I have the same problem on my 94 VR4. Of course I thought I had saved the thread so I could fix this and I didn't, but the OP in that thread described a problem a lot like this along with what to do. I don't know if pulling the door panel off and inspecting the mechanism will make it obvious - I hope so at this point because it took forever to find that thread - but IMO that is the problem.
If you could find that thread that would be great. Best I could find was on machine gun door locks and how to disable the factory alarm. I'd like to keep my VR4 Spyder as original as possible. I got the car with an after market Pioneer head unit so the CD changer isn't connected and that bums me a bit and the screen gets glare with the top down. I'm going to look at the door rods to see if there is something out of wack. First time for me digging into a "newer" car. I've been playing with old stuff '57 Dodge Custom Royal, '65 Mustang "Delivery Wagon", '68 Fiat 850 Spider, '62 Austin 3000 w/ Algon injected 289 Ford, and a '73 Olds 455 Kona jet boat. Also have a '99 2.4l 5sp Eclipse Spyder that I wanted to turn into a GSX, but I don't think I'm going to live long enough to do all of this! Any help with the 3000gt issue is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike
Interesting. Will have to try this on my car. Got home yesterday only for my neighbor to come up and tell me how my car alarm had been going off for almost a day straight...LOL. My car for the past few months will machine gun the lock when I try to unlock it.
I did see the article on the machine gun doors. Made new stops for the actuators and that fixed the passenger door from doing it's crazy thing. Still haven't had any luck with the rest of the issue. And now since I've been messing with the door locks, my battery is draining overnight! With the driver side power button not working I'm beginning to think I must have some broken wires in that door harness shorting out or something. I still need to look at the rods being bent. Anybody have any pics on what the door rods should look like? Thanks again, Mike
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