I did some research back then and these are the pumps options people did use on other cars for an EPS (EHPS) conversion. Some are "smart" with an circuit and ECU others are just "dumb" and need extra relays and switches.
Other units that seem viable:
- Citroen Saxo / Peugeot 106 I and II: 183042610P & 1830426102
- Peugeot 307 (with ECU) but no clue if viable for control
- Renault Clio I and II / KAngoo
- Toyota MR2 and MR2 Type3
- Volvo S40 / V50 with simple control (3 pins). 1200psi
- Opel (Vauxhall) Astra G / H No. 9156554 or 26076592 cheapest unit, but also looks quickly roten and dirty, reports of failures...1200psi
- Mazda 3 Koyo 048310077 .Huge unit with external reservoir / pricy
- Mercedes W168 /W414 & Porsche 2001 GT3 RS: VDO A1684660101 (3 connectors) A1684660201 (4 connectors,2more for control) readily available
The pump I did use is the A1684660101. 600watts, upto 80A (it does really draw around 76A on my car when standing still and fast pulling) Also it has a noise dampening jacket included and is "smart" which means more easy to install and you don't have to worry about assist above 25+ mph. It means it drives like a manual rack at speed and just helps with the parking lot.
Steering Rack low pressure return outlet is M16x1.5 thread.
Steering Rack high pressure inlet is M14x1.5
I've used AN-6 fittings for power steering. They look like this (notice the O-Ring and lip) Don't use regular AN fittings they will not seal the high pressure side. (120psi+) Also get PTFE AN type lines, braided (have extra lip to seal) (not the cheap regular stuff) Return can be the "cheap" stuff - nylon braided regular AN line and 90°fitting:
Return on my pump is just a stump to hook up the return and use a clamp.
High pressure outlet is same as our steering rack M16x1.5 "steering rack type". So you need two of those in total.
As for hooking it up,
The unit has three wires, ground, positive (which I used with a circuit breaker 100A) and connected back then (before my rewire of the car) straight to the Bolt of the fuse under the engine fusebox for the Bat / Alternator)
The small wire is there to activate the pump when it senses over 12V (Alternator running +14V). The unit which i took for cheap from a scrapper activates at around 12.2V which sometimes can happen with my healthy battery - so I connected it to the wire for the fuel pump. Pump running - so does the power steering. You may wire in a Switch and hook it up to any other ignition source, it's really up to you.
I've choosen to put it to where the battery used to be, but you can put it any other place.
For fluid, just take something synthetic over the old mineral DExtron II, I've used both but the pump is working better with a synthetic ATF style oil.
This was done nearly two years ago, since then some things changed in my engine bay but the pump does it's job, easy feathered steering at the parking lot and nearly non existent above 25 mph. Really like the manual steering firm feeling on the autobahn
I also added a toggle switch since then too but never used it yet.
FIY, I would have used the MR2 pump, but they are really- really rare here, and extremly expensive. So feel free to experiment yourself.
you can remove the old power steering bracket, pumpt, lines (also the hole 4ws system needs to go, or at least I am not sure if the units are strong enough to pump additional 10 meters of lines around the car for the rear axle actuators / pump).