Turbo Zet Installation
Provided by: Rommel Dizon. Please direct any questions you may have on this application to Rommel @ rommel.o.dizon@intel.com
My car: 1995 Glacier White Pearl 3000GT
Mods: K&N FIPK, removed intake resonator, TurboZet
Eibach 1" lowering springs, TT exhaust (cat-back)
What exactly is a TurboZet? I will have to refer you to the TurboZet homepage
My contact there is Sylvester Lim, the manager. He was very helpful in answering my questions. What came with the kit (clockwise starting from the 12 o'clock position): the TZ itself, 2 hose clamps, the TZ power wire, 3 wire straps, 1 splicer (red), 1 wire end ring (for "negative" wire), TZ stickers, extra rubber sleeve.
Removal of the 90-degree elbow hose. You can see the resonator is not there anymore (notice the "SKIM" milk container top in its place)
Remove the light-colored plastic sleeve at the mouth of the hose.
The TZ goes into the hose that houses the resonator.
Use half of the extra rubber sleeve provided to make a better fit between the TZ and the 90-degree bent hose. We used the K&N FIPK oil to lubricate it so as to make it easier to shove the two togethe$ BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT THROUGH THE SLEEVE AND SLASH YOUR LEG. Don't try this at home, this was done by a professional :-)
One can remove the MAS from the 90-degree elbow hose to make it easier to shove the TZ and the hose together.
Rich is holding up the splicer that will join the ignition coil wire and the TZ "positive" wire. See tz26.jpg for where the ignition coil assembly is (or refer to the car service manual.)
These are the power wires for the TZ. The "negative" wire is the one on the left (with the ring) at the end. The "positive" wire is the one next to it. The white-colored part is where this connects with the TZ.
The ring portion of the "negative" wire was too small for the chassis ground screw, so we ended up cutting it so it can go in.
Close-up of ignition coil wire with the TZ "positive" wire going into the red-colored splicer. Now provide power to the TZ by connecting it to the power wires via the light-colored couplers.
Before putting the hoses back together, make sure to test the connectivity first by turning the ignition to the "ON" position and verify that the TZ fan is spinning. It is amazing how quiet the fan is. You will not be able to feel the vibration on the fan housing.
In the picture above, you can see the blue wire at the bottom center where the TZ "positive" wire is spliced (the splicer is the red-colored object) with the ignition coil wire. Note that the K&N FIPK is now slightly turned. This can be fixed by cutting part of the air intake hose that houses the resonator (this is what I will end up doing).
The installation of the TZ is very professional-looking. Many thanks to Rich Leroy for his mechanical expertise, his garage and tools.
-- Rommel Dizon <'95 Glacier White 3000GT automatic
A blatant plug for the book that I wrote: Comprehensive Bughouse Chess
Here is my post to the 3000GT/Stealth list re: measurements using the G-Tech Pro. From: "Rommel O. Dizon" <rdizon@ichips.intel.com To: Stealth/3000GT <stealth@starnet.net Subject: - TurboZet and other G-Tech results!! (finally) - Hi, Thanks for your patience in waiting for the TurboZet results. Rich Leroy and I did some G-Tech measurements Thursday afternoon. We used the G-Tech to measure the "relative" differences between two different setups...at least five runs were made on each with the lowest and highest readings thrown out and the rest averaged. Please send any comments/concerns my way... 1. I did some 0-60mph runs w/ resonator and w/o resonator: removing the resonator makes 0-60mph time 0.1 seconds faster. (cost: FREE) Did not get a chance to get a 1/4-mile E.T. difference since the road was a bit shorter than where Rich and I did the rest of the tests. 2. 3000GT automatic POWER shift mode (higher rpm shift point at WOT) vs. ECONOMY shift mode: POWER shift mode is 0.2 seconds faster (1/4-mile E.T.) (cost: FREE -- worse gas mileage, though) 3. 3000GT w/ TurboZet vs. w/o TurboZet (cost: $300+S&H) The difference is 0.15 seconds (1/4-mile E.T.) Probably about the same difference in speed that resonator removal achieved. (still no data on gas mileage effect, etc.) Better throttle response, nice turbo-like whine at high rpm Did not get a chance to test it on Stealth R/T...you can decide whether this mod is worth it. I will probably end up keeping it. 4. Stealth R/T 5-spd (mods: K&N FIPK, no resonator, TT exhaust) vs. 3000GT automatic (mods: K&N FIPK, no resonator, lowering springs): Stealth 5-spd is 0.8 seconds faster than 3000GT auto (1/4-mile E.T.) Looks like after the next PIR street drags, someone else will be the "fastest 3/S non-turbo" :) Won't be me, unless I get a HUGE shot of nitrous. 5. One thing we noticed was removing 50lbs of weight from the car results in about a 0.1 second improvement in 1/4-mile E.T. Which is about a car length (@90mph.) Hmmmm, I guess if I lose all my weight then I'd be a little over 0.3 seconds faster!! Instead of that, at the next open track day/driver training school (July 7 @ Portland International Raceway) I will be shedding the spare tire, jack, passenger seat (unless I have an instructor, of course) which in total is about 100lbs. Now that the car can't be any faster, I will just have to work on driving skills :)
Home | Tips and Tricks | 3000GT/Stealth International MessageBoard
© 1998 Webmasters, 3000GT/Stealth International