Staged Upgrades: 3000GT VR-4 and Stealth TT

Everyone has different tastes and preferences. This list is by no means a definative source. The greatest caveat is that evry car is different and results will vary. Also some of the parts mentioned may be for off-raod use only in your state.This is only a general guideline. Some components mentioned here may be substituted or left off depending on personal preference and perfomance interests.

Corresponding Power Stage
Stage 1: Wheel and Tires upgrade

At this time we will take a break from adding power and focus on reducing weight. This is especially critical when your car weighs 3,800 pounds! The stock 91-93 17" wheel and tire combination weighs 52 pounds. By going with a lighter wheel, you will reduce the critical upsprung weight. This aids in all facets of the car from acceleration to braking to handling. Some wheels like the BBS, Blitz, and SSR wheels weigh less than 20 lbs. each, allowing a potential savings of 15 or more lbs. for each wheel and tire. Stay away from chrome! You know the old saying: "chrome don't get ya home"!

As for tires you can choose a set of rubber that best suits your local terrain and or driving habits. Just remember the larger the contact patch the better you stick to the ground.

1-4
Stage 2: Blow off Valve upgrade

A blow off valve protects the turbocharger from compressor surge (boost pressure being forced back to the turbo when the throttle plate is closed under boost). What you will notice with the installation of a BOV is quicker boost response and recovery. You won't really see a horsepower gain, what you will notice is that the turbo is aggressively spooled up and ready to go at a moments notice (which leads to the feeling of more power).

4-5
Stage 3: Intercooler Y-Pipe

The stock Y-pipe (the plastic pipe that goes from the intake to the throttle body....in the shape of a "Y") has a tendency to blow off at high boost. This usually happens around the 15 psi and up mark. What you will notice is a loud pop and something hitting the hood from below. The car will stall out and you will lose all power functions (including power steering). Don't worry! More often than not, all you need to do is to reattach the Y-pipe, just make sure to have a screwdriver handy. By replacing this plastic "Y-Pipe" with a aftermarket one, you will eliminate the chances of the pipe blowing off as well as allow more air to flow through.

4-6
Stage 4: Clutch Upgrade

After upping the horsepower beyond the 400 HP mark, you will begin to notice the shortcomings of the factory clutch. At this point we suggest an upgraded clutch that was designed to handle more power as well as provide a smooth engagement.

6-7
Stage 5: Lowering Springs

Lowering the car an inch or so will show tremendous amount of less body roll. You will corner with greater speed. You also will see a slight less amount of drivetrain power loss getting to the wheels. The downside is your ride will be a bit rougher. Good thing you CD player has anti-skip built in.

6-7
Stage 6: New Gauges

Good gauges to have are Air/Fuel ratio and an EGT(Exhuast Gas Temperature.) The A/F gauge will make sure you are not lean out your fuel mix for the amount of boost you are running. The EGT gauge will keep you informed as to how hot your turbos are running. If they get too hot they will only be putting in hot air into your system. Air that is too hot will lead to detonation.

7-9
Stage 7: Brakes

The faster you go the faster you need to stop. First you can get better rotors and better pads. Second you can get steel brake lines. This will help your brakes respond just a hair quicker. Third you then can get bigger rotors And to top it off you can get even larger rotors and larger calipers.

8-9
Stage 8: Intercooler Pipes

If you are running a special or upgraded intercooler you will most likely want to be sure and optimize air flow and be able to hold the higher pressures.

8-9
If you have a stage suggestion please e-mail us.
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