Well, after toiling over the somewhat cryptic "SNAKE EYES" modification from the 3SI site; I came to realize that it wasn't that difficult, yet it seems quite overwhelming. Well, here is a *simplified* step-process for us normal 3/S owners and dumb teenagers like me.

Ant187@aol.com

Required:

-1st Generation 3000GT or Stealth: Any trim

(1st Gen: Manufactured 1991-1993, identified by: Raised hood bumps and pop-up lights)

-Wire Stripper or blade

-10mm socket wrench, extension socket helps greatly

-Electrical Tape

-Screwdriver: Phillips and Flat heads

Cost:

You probably have all this stuff laying around, if not, borrow it from your neighbor. All in all, FREE!

Time/Technical Knowledge Required:

About 5 minutes when you know what you're doing, it took me about 40 minutes on my first stab. All the procedures are very simple, even to the point that a goofy teenager like me can follow through. (with *minimal* foul ups)

Technical Notes:

-1991 3/S- Modification will very likely kill off fog light operation; reversible.

-1992 3/S- Modification will sometimes blow an ATO fuse; details below.

-1993 3/S- None known

Procedure

Step 1: Dash Removal

*This has been a troubling step for most, because the screws are hard to identify.

1. Using the flat head, carefully pry off:

a) The remote mirror control panel, left of the steering column, and

b) the active exhaust/rear wiper control panel from the right of the column.

2. Disconnect both panels and place away from area.

3. Look into the openings, you should see shiny 10mm bolts w/ washers, one in each opening; use the socket and remove them.

4. Now, raise the steering column and push the chair back, because you're going under the dash by the pedals.(hope you cleaned, this place is icky) Near then end of the curved plastic of the dash near the pedals(you should be on your back sweating on your leather by now)-two more bolts w/washers-10mm- remove. Dash should slide out now, being slacked by the hood release.

Step 2: Identifying Connection

1. Now, with your head still under the dash looking at the mass of wires of your Japanese engineered steering column; find a mass of wires coming from the steering wheel and end at a black connections, which in turn is connected to a white connector. The white connector is the work site. *DO NOT SEPERATE THE CONNECTORS*

2. Now, look for a blue wire w/yellow stripe, which should have a blue wire w/white stripe next to it.(pin 7,6, respectively)

3. Cut the blue w/yellow, about 3 inches from the white connector, strip a half inch from the side leading from the white connector, tape up the loose end going to the ETAC.

4. Now, strip some from midline from the blue w/white stripe, making sure not to cut it; and splice the blue w/yellow inline. Tape connection.

Step 3: The Aftermath

1. Well, after you've thrown everything back on, hopefully the pop ups will work flawlessly now; but, if you find out that your power locks, pop up mechanism, and antenna have failed(like I did), you've blown a fuse.

2. Simply replace the "DOOR" fuse in the fuse block under the dash, and you're set.

3. Now, when you turn on your lights, they will simply go on, and must be popped using the button to pop up and down. All lock features and walk away kills are still ACTIVE.

Notes:

*It is not recommended that you drive around on the highway or under extreme darkness/weather conditions with these on, they are just for entertainment or mildly dim conditions.

*Also, considering those are high powered halogens, intense heat and condensation builds under the lenses, which I've heard may lead to cracking down the line. But hey, still nice.