Custom Ram Air

 Pete Simpsons prototype of the NT RamAir System Much2fst4u@aol.com

Below is a post, provided by Pete, for the parts that you will need and installation instructions. Please email him directly if you have any questions regarding this setup!

Here is what you need from Home Depot:

 (1) 7" Round Wall Vent WVA-7 #926-736 I $11.97

(1) 4"x3" Round Reducer R-4X3 #148-814 $3.97

(1) Adjustable 90 degree Elbow 4" Diameter B90E4 #148-717 $1.49

(1) Aluminum Duct 3"x8' (tubing) Model#A038/16 #185-868 $4.97

(1) Offset Wall Elbow 4" #101-984 I $4.96

 ***Plus a pop rivet tool and pop rivets, silicone sealant, metal cutters,

clear tape, 90 degree elbows (like used in shelving, approx. 1" in size), a couple of screws and nuts, and lots of patience and flexibility. If you have access to a lift at a garage, it would be easier to assemble #5 below than on the ground like I had to do.

1. Remove the 90 degree elbows holding the MAS and the K&N to the body. Reattach the K&N to the MAS without the elbows.

2. Remove the flap and the weather guard from the Wall Vent. Use a pop rivet tool and reasssemble the flap onto the round cylinder. Make sure that this will slide over your K&N still at the opening. Fill all holes with silicone sealant.

 

3. Take the Wall Elbow. Cut a hole in the Wall Vent to place the Wall elbow. You want to make a cut in the bottom of the Wall Vent to place the wall elbow in it so the large opening will be flowing into the engine compartment. Use the pop rivet tool to attach the Wall Elbow to the Wall Vent. Look inside the Wall Vent to make sure all the pop rivets are as small as possible (you might have to cut them off and pinch them with a needle-nosed pliers) to make sure they don't ruin the K&N. Fill all holes with silicone sealant.  

4. Cut off the large opening of the Wall elbow into the engine compartment to fit the 3" aluminum tubing (the opening is 4", and you have to make it able to fit 3"). Make as airtight as possible by sliding it over the cuts. Seal with clear tape to make airtight.

5. This is the long part. Take the screws out of the wheel well that leads into the area next to the passenger's foglight. Take the 90 degree adj. elbow. You have to use some sort of support (I used two 90 degree elbows, as used for a little shelf, and used a screw and nut to attach them to form a U- shape) and attach it to the elbow, AND the bottom of your car in there. Attach the 4"x3" reducer to the elbow when you are finished. You should position it so it is visible from the front of the car in the opening where the intercooler for the TT models are.

6. Run the alum. tubing from the engine compartment that is attached to the elbow to the reducer infront of the wheel well (there is an opening there from engine compartment to the reducer). Attach it with clear tape so it is airtight. Put the screws back into the wheel well and seal it up.

7. No, there is nothing holding the cylinder that the K&N is in, to the car. You will realize that when you try and close the hood it will either not close right or dent the cylinder. I have not figured out any other way to get around this, but am working on it now so it won't look so "home-made".  

8. If you have installed it well, you can turn your car on and hear the K&N sucking up air from the front of the car near the passenger's side where the system begins.

GOOD LUCK EVERYONE!!!!!!!

Yes, everyone asks me, it does make a difference. When you decrease the temp of the air entering the engine by every 10 degrees, you gain X amount of HP!!!! And no, there is no low pressure zone there, as someone tried to tell me in OCIV. That is why most people place theirs low on the car, or on the hood. And why would you place the intercoolers there...I guess they also work off of cool air? I might be wrong on this one, but I want my point across.

Pete,

"Ram Air Stealth"

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