If you have questions or comments about this modification, please email Ken directly.

Here is my explanation of what a bleeder valve does.

In a nutshell, maximum boost is controlled by the turbo wastegates.Once the wastegates are open, the turbos stop producing boost. Wastegates are actuated by pressure. The air pressure used to actuate the wastegates comes from the intake plenum (fed by the turbos). So by bleeding off some air to the actuators, we are requiring higher pressure in the intake plenum (from the turbos). Thus the bleeder valve over-rides the stock maximum boost setting.

People have been using the 3 way aquarium bleeder valve from pet supply stores or the aquarium section at Walmart. It is brass, has 3 hose barbs, and a knob. It costs about $2.

The Cockpit controlled manual valve!

For those of you that haven't yet bought a $500 electronic boost controller, yet weren't satisfied with a simple $2 bleeder valve, here is an alternative. For about $33, you can install a manual variable boost controller in the cockpit.

I bought the air regulator, part #2Z767 @ about $13, and a bracket, part #6ZF65 @ about $5 from Grangers. I bought two 1/8 inch brass barbed hose fittings from Home Depot for about $3. I bought a 3-way brass tee for $2 from the aquarium section at a pet store. Finally, I bought about $10 of vacuum line from the local auto parts store.

My installation is basically an enhanced bleeder valve -- instead of the knob being on the bleeder valve in the engine bay, the knob is moved into the cockpit. Typically, the bleeder valve is installed on the lower hose of the Boost Control Solenoid Valve. This is the right-most (closest to the driver) valve in the group of valves mounted in the center of the firewall. Here is an ASCII schematic of a typical bleeder valve install:

from solenoid valve

| | bleeder valve

| |______

|---| |______ 'bled air' to atmosphere

| |

| |

to waste gate actuators As the knob on the bleeder valve is opened, more air is bled into the atmosphere. Thus, higher boost (i.e. the goal!) is required to actuate the waste gates.

To replace the bleeder valve with the cockpit controller:

1) Swap out the bleeder valve and install the tee.

2) Install the barbed fittings to the IN & OUT holes in the air regulator.

3) Install two of the supplied threaded plugs in the remaining two holes in the regulator.

4) Mount the regulator in the cockpit. I used the bracket and mounted the regulator under the dash just to the right of the driver's crotch air vent.

5) Run hose 1 from the tee inside to the IN side of the air regulator.

6) Run hose 2 from the OUT side of the regulator back to the engine bay, let it dangle in a safe place.

Suggestions:

Use teflon tape on the threads of the hose fittings and plugs. Remove the driver's underside dash knee panel in order to drill holes to mount the bracket. Paint your bracket before you install it. The two hoses are routed through the firewall, along with a third hose for my SPI Boost Gauge, via the hole behind the brake pedal next to the steering linkage. Instead of routing one hose at a time, it is easier to tape the 3 hoses together and send them through the firewall at the same time. Use a pointed 'Art Knife' to cut pie shaped slits in the firewall rubber plug.

Here is the ASCII schematic of the cockpit boost controller:

from solenoid valve regulator

___

| | tee hose 1 |___| hose 2

| |______ ________| |___________________ 'bled air' to

| |______ ________| |___________________ atmosphere

| | |___|

| |

to waste gate actuators

The regulator has a snap lock so you can adjust and lock the knob in small increments. The valve opens as you turn the knob clockwise, so clockwise is more boost, counter-clockwise is less. You can now make some third gear full-throttle accelerations and dial in your desired boost. Depending on weather, I usually hit fuel cut at about 16-17 psi with a K&N FIPK, stock exhaust, and stock spark plug gap.