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#1 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I finally got around to draining the oil in the SL that I thought spun a bearing. There wasnt any metal shavings in it at all??? The cam gear bolt did snap so maybe that was the only problem... Wouldnt there be mtal shavings if it was?
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"It's not a question of if it will break down but a question of when it does can you afford to fix it."
By: James Hendrix (me) ![]() Pearl White 94' VR4 |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Between Shadow and Light
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one of the little adjustable cam gear adjustment bolts, or the big bad main cam gear bolt... if the main one snapped, I would seriously be wondering what caused that failure
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![]() 485 awhp (mustang dyno) on 93 pump gas (~524 dynojet equivalent) Only 20.5 psi on my lil' ol' GT368s with no water or alky injection |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Between Shadow and Light
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It would almost HAVE to be caused by the cam not being able to turn while the belt turned the gear and caused it to shear.... is everything else in the engine OK? I can't think of what would cause the cam to "seize" Normally, if something is bollixed, the cam turns and bends valves...
I GUESS it could be possibly cause by the bolt being over torqued to begin with... but thats a stretch (pun intended) |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I know what it is, or what caused the cam bolt to break. I sent you a PM about how belt slap sounds just like bearing knock. And what the belt slap do to Ryan's bearings. Just think of the side loading that bolt was taking each time that belt would slap. most likely had the power of an air hammer, OR JACK hammer on the side of that bolt.
And to put up with that load while rotating was like using an axe on a tree while running circles around it. Replace the bolt and correct the belt slap. Belt slap takes it's toll on the mains and not the rods. check mains before you put that pan back up. ![]() |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Great info. Sorry for the confusion but this isnt the one that has rod knock. This one had really loud lifter tick I think it was. Maybe that was still the belt slap your talking about. I guess we will see once shes at your shop on the 27th. Also I need to set up a time to send you the VR4 which is the one that has "rod knock" also.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I would like also and this little tid bit of info, and that is when rebuilding these little Gems, the water pump has a little tiny bracket at the top of the water pump that bolts to the intake manifold. this bracket is used to control water pump location in an up and down dirrection. If the bracket is not used , the pump can drift upwards and this would not only cause a slackening of the belt, but would also change the timing relationship fron one head to the next. The clearance in the water pump mounting holes are to large to control proper location and need to stay that way for dimentional stack up compensation. I just thought everone should know how important this little bracket is and that it needs to be the first of the mounting bolts to get torqued to spec.
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