----New Cast Crank or Reground Forged??---

[ras463us]

Originally Posted by iceman_ii

The binding of the pin is more of an issue with press-fit rather than floating is it not?

Correct. With the press fit rod, there is only one place for the wrist pin to pivot, vs two points in a floating setup.

[ras463us]

Originally Posted by basslover911

^ yea Im shooting for 600 crank hp not awhp... so around 500awhp...

I am guessing a cast crank should do it...

All I will say is... Mitsu thought it imortant enough to switch to a forged crank before they increase the HP rating from 300 to 320.

BUY THE FORGED CRANK! If your not cozy about a regrind save a few more pennies or go strip someones house of all the copper pipe and scrap it or find a way to save the few extra bucks. I wasn't even aware that you could still get a "new" cast crank. Mistu replacement cranks for the 6g72 are all forged. Cherry Hill's price is a whole $680. It would be money well spent. If you want a good regrind I can supply one of those for you.

[AdamVR4]

Originally Posted by iceman_ii

Sorry for the confusion, if you spin a main, there is a chance you need to line-bore the main itself, not just cut the journal on the crank, there are no bearings oversized for cut mains, this is why I couldn't reuse my old block.

I'm still a little confused and hoping you'll spoon feed me

So you're saying that when you line-bore the block, you can't find replacement main bearings? If you cut the main journal on the crank, you can find bearings, but if you cut the main bore on the block, you'll be screwed? If that's the case, holy shit.

[iceman_ii]

Yep Adam, you got it. when my crank let loose, it wore #2 a tad bit diagonally, we are talking fractions of a mm here, I couldn't hardly tell it was not square, it was so minimal. You can deck the bottom of the girdle, and then line bore the mains to the original diameter, but that will only clean up the top and bottom of the mains, not the sides. Because there are no oversized OD bearings, you are pretty much screwed - welcome to my world.

[donniekak]

Originally Posted by iceman_ii

Yep Adam, you got it. when my crank let loose, it wore #2 a tad bit diagonally, we are talking fractions of a mm here, I couldn't hardly tell it was not square, it was so minimal. You can deck the bottom of the girdle, and then line bore the mains to the original diameter, but that will only clean up the top and bottom of the mains, not the sides. Because there are no oversized OD bearings, you are pretty much screwed - welcome to my world.

When a block gets align honed it returns the journals to the correct size. Just like when they recondition a rod. The machinist mills a small amount off of the bearing caps, puts them on to the correct torque and rebores the journal.

[GTwizard]

Originally Posted by donniekak

When a block gets align honed it returns the journals to the correct size. Just like when they recondition a rod. The machinist mills a small amount off of the bearing caps, puts them on to the correct torque and rebores the journal.

donniekak,
You are lacking the math skills and the general understanding of geometric shapes to understand what it is you are saying.
Once a sureface has been cut or damaged, you must expose new material in order to create a new serface. This is done when boaring and if you maintain origenal center line of the crank when boaring, you will be cutting away at the block creating a larger diameter then was once there. So now with a good boar and a new crank you will still have to make up the differance of the origenal boar size to the new boar size and this must be done on the out side of the bearing shell and not the inside as it is only the outer radius of the bearing has changed. They do not make those oversize bearing to fit this application. The over size bearing are for when you have the crank turned and you need a bearing with a smaller radius on the inside.
As far as the Rods go, that is for correcting a stretched rod bearing caps and if in fact they did have to cut at the base of the rod, it to will be oversize and will need a bearing to make uo for the removal of material and the larger radii left behind. all cutting must take place at the origenal centerline of the origenal boar or the 2 half shells would be 2 differant sizes.
Chew on this information for a while. I'm not tactful and I spell and type like shit. But I can help you understand some of those things you are not yet grasping.

[iceman_ii]

Originally Posted by donniekak

When a block gets align honed it returns the journals to the correct size. Just like when they recondition a rod. The machinist mills a small amount off of the bearing caps, puts them on to the correct torque and rebores the journal.

Read my original post AGAIN...

It is NOT like when you recondition a rod, because they recondition a rod with a slightly oversized bore.

There is boring, and there is honing... honing prepares the surface, but it simply will not remove enough material to correct diagonally worn surfaces, for that you need to line bore.

Line boring will clean up the top and bottom of the journals (the parts that are 90 degrees out from the joining surface, but it doesn't do squat for the sides of the journals, because there wasn't any new material to be bored.

I spent 6 months trying to find a 4-bolt block after being told by two machine shops that what you suggest couldn't be done, and one of those shops strictly built racing engines... I think if it could have been done, it would have been done, and I SURELY would have had it done.

Yes, GTwizard was a bit terse but can you truly blame him? It is REALLY bad form to join a discussion 3 months after the fact, telling everyone that they are wrong, when you know not of what you speak.

Just my $.02