My car has become fairly unenjoyable to drive because the clutch will not hold any kind of torque...
You guys have any recommendations on clutches, so I can start doing my shopping? I have been completely out of the game for at least a year or two. I have a UR flywheel I can probably just get re-faced/re-plated... if the popular recommendation is going with a metal composite-type clutch. So, if that's the recommendation, I should be able to get away without too much damage to my pocketbooks.
For the next setup: I'm probably going away from the pucked clutches, because the last time I checked there were a few full-faced ones that could hold a good amount of power.
Are carbon/carbon setups gaining any popularity? Or are they still plagued with longevity issues?
That's a tough question to answer. I don't know how you drive or what mods you have, or simply the intended usage of the car. But I can tell you what works for us. Our Na has a few mods and had eaten a Spec stage 3, 6 puck before. Not happy with those. I have changed many clutches for others and found in most cases, if the car was driven hard, the spring in the hubs had gotten destroyed or simply spit out. We don't use our car much. Like to go to the store that is 15 minutes away, and they close in 7 minutes. We have a Fidenza light and for us, the Spec stage 5 looked like the ticket. We have been running it had and beat the day light out of it at the nG this year. The add for this clutch clearly states "Not for street". Werun this on the street and love it. I it ever goes out, I will order an other with out question. It is a full face with relief cuts to stop worpage under hard launches. And the hub is springless, well it has no hub to speak of. Hope this helps.
I'm not sure the exact dyno figures that the car put down(it's been a while since I've visited a dyno) , but the round-about number from my last trip was ~450 lb/ft to the wheels.
I definitely need something that can hold a good amount of power( 500 lb/ft + ), consistently. My power goals are a bit higher than what I have now... so don't use my current numbers as the objective.
My primary concern is longevity, I want a clutch that will last a long time (30k+ miles), and if that means I have to drop 2k into a carbon/carbon setup... then I'll have to count my pennies and start my savings plan.
As far as my upgrades, my signature is still fairly accurate.
What type of driver am I? hrrm... I liken myself to a grandpa, in comparison to the average user on this board. (when it comes to driving style)
I'm typically not brutal on my clutch. The car is daily driven and I don't do a lot of 'punching it from a stand-still'. Most of my damage is done while the car is already rolling.
Last edited by pacman3000gt : 10-01-2009 at 04:16 PM.
Yeah, the carbon/carbons are still plagued with issues. When my C/C fails I'll probably try one of the Spec V's.
I've probably got a thousand miles on my C/C, don't look to me for longevity testing.
__________________
'93 3000GT VR-4: Stock blocked, Hoosiered, 3335 lbs of axle-snapping fury. 2002: 9B's: 12.78 @ 107.1 // stock turbos, fuel, clutch, cat-back 2003: S16G's: 13.41 @ 112.4 // JPDC adapter plates, way too rich A:F, slipping stock clutch 2004: 14B's: 11.10 @ 127.3 (25 psi) // 488 AWHP & 483 AWTQ @ 20 psi 2005: E16G's: 11.20 best ET; 129.2 best trap // DR Headers & limits of RPS Street clutch
93 Octane: 11.28 @ 124.69 (126 mph best trap) // 100% street trim 2006: 10.92 @ 131.9 mph @ 29 psi // 10.573 @ 135.01 mph @ 31.5 psi 2009: 584 AWHP & 561 AWTQ @ 32.6 psi, 104.25 octane & BS Excuses
To-do: Fix 3-4 fork, install bell housing brace, upgrade cams, re-dyno, and go break more parts. Congrats to the current top 10 members!! DynamicRacing: US 3S Top 10 Fastest List
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljefefx
How about this: people need to stop being apathetic in regards to politics. This stuff affects everyone in the US and abroad. The minute you use the phrase "there's not much I can do about it" is the moment you should never again vote or have an opinion of any type in regards to politics and those who have been chosen to lead you. Half the reason we have such a dysfunctional group of mouth-breathing greedy cocksucks in Congress is because a large enough population said "eh, there's nothing I can do about it, back to watching Cops!"
I am of course NA. So this is much smaller then the VR4 version of this clutch. But even at that, this stage 5 was rated at 690 ft/lb.s and there is no way I will ever get there. So this was as overkill as I could find for me. I wanted to beat on the car and not deal with clutch issuses. I believe the VR4set up holds a bit more but do not have the spec. These stage 5s also can be ordered to fit your specific needs. I'm not at all trying to sell you one. I was just saying it fit our needs. By your description of your driving, I would not think you would need a bad ass clutch anyways. For you I would think a stock steel flywheel and a good heavy duty street clutch should have been fine. Are you sure your right foot is on the same page? LOL.
I have the SouthBend stage 5 DXD-F "Track Series" clutch and I love it. Its completely streetable and I enjoy it (driveability wise) just as much as my old stock clutch. It is slippable, doesnt chatter, but is very firm.
Ive only put about 1500 miles on it however. I would recommend it though
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1992 3000GT VR4
Tein Flex Coilovers
Ksport Big Brakes Kit
HKS SSQV
--Too Many Mods Wanted
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeSkinner
If you're not breaking stuff you are not going fast enough.
Lol thats easy! an oriental goin slow in the fast lane, u and sean3s
U left yourself wide open
You realize that the term "Oriental" reffers to the FOOD... right... he's just Asian.
__________________
On the car:
- Titan Bending TD05 Headers / O2 Housings (8/19/2006)
- TD05 E16G's Braided feeds/returns (03/04/2007)
- DSM SMIC's
- Precision Turbo 680 CC Injectors
- E2K Fuel Loop
- E-Manage Blue w/ ignition Harness
- Custom 3'' exhaust from turbos back (T-Pros DP)
- Magnacore Wires
- 3SX Braided break lines, Carbotech Vented and Slotted Rotors, and Hawk Pads
- SBC-iD III Boost Controller
- K&N FIPK
- Ebay Y-pipe (shinny)
- GTO MR Gears / 5 spd rear end (Installed 07/18/2005)
- RPS Max Street Disc
- 120K and Rod/Main Bearings (Finished 12/16/2005)
- Walbro 255 lph f/p
"What the eff is this eff'ing world coming to where people can't even eff with eachother anymore? A world without eff'ing - eff that! I'd eff'ing slap someone!" - Me
The spec 3+ looks nice:
"Stage 3-PLUS
Full-faced carbon semi-metallic sprung-hub disc offers capacities of the Stage 5 but the drivability of Stage 3! 620 ft/LB capacity."
Get ahold of Erron Spalsbury here on 3si, and get in on the Tilton flywheel group buy, and just get a tilton twin or tripple plate clutch. Its like 140 bucks every time you have to rebuild it. Plus you can customize it to hold your exact power needs.
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1992 3000GT VR-4 #15 of 24. The ORIGINAL Sandstone Gray '99 Conversion.
Resurection is upon us. www.3stech.org <= Where the meaningful results of your search went.
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Clutch Recommendations.
We have a Fidenza light and for us, the Spec stage 5 looked like the ticket. We have been running it had and beat the day light out of it at the nG this year. The add for this clutch clearly states "Not for street". Werun this on the street and love it. I it ever goes out, I will order an other with out question. It is a full face with relief cuts to stop worpage under hard launches. And the hub is springless, well it has no hub to speak of. Hope this helps.
Congrats to the current top 10 members!! 
, u and sean3s
