I also mentioned that she needs copper plugs (gaped at .30), test the PTU, Coil pack, and pressure test. The TN guys will be comming in here to help out. Some help her get her car running right. I told her to offer pizza.
its misfiring.. when accelerating, i can feel the sputtering.. i can hear the misfiring really bad too. and ive changed all the plugs & wires in the last month.
Is your car on stock boost? If so when you, or whom ever changed the plugs did you put die-electric grease in the plug boots? That and what your gaps are set on like coop said. If you havent changed it yet then it could be the coil pack. After that then do the fuel filter/pump. All this is just a good tune-up but I cant see how that would have you stranded for two hours so it could be the ptu or ecu, again like coop said.
the fuel pump was new when i bought the car. ive never let it run completely out of gas either. 5 psi, dunno the gap, its whatever ngks come double platinum. it misfires all the time. youll be sitting there & you can feel it. and its running really rich.
Last edited by vr4liz : 09-09-2007 at 08:15 PM.
Reason: ....
Sorry to have missed the post, been busy lately playing with other toys. If you got platinum plugs at the stock gap, that is anywhere around .040 to 044, try regapping the plugs at 34 to 36, platinum plugs tell you not to regap them but it isn't any harder to do so than a copper plug. This will usually reduce misfires. You shouldn't have to go any less unless you are running higher boost. (stock boost on a 1st gen is 8-9psi). Changing or gapping the plugs is about a half hours labor for someone thats done it before. If you need help changing and gapping plugs i'll help you out with that.
If this doesn't work, I would recommend taking the ecu out and opening it up to get a look at the capacitors inside, sometimes when they start to leak i've heard it misfires, mine didn't though, when my ecu fried, it went from running pretty good to nothing. When the ecu fries, if you're inside when it happens, it smells just like burning electronics, but you could miss it pretty easy. Getting the ecu out isn't that hard if you're limber, I had to take both front seats out to get mine though, I'm old, and my shoulder doesn't bend that way anymore, not if i want my fingers to work too. Unbolt it from the right side then the left then work it out the left side where you can wiggle the harness free (long plug, lots of wires going in). Its located behind the radio area of the console, you get it from the back side of the console, not going thru the radio hole. If you have questions on that, feel free to PM me.
Its not likely to be the wires, unless it wasn't doing this before your last wire change. If it is something new, put the old wires back on one at a time and see if you've got a bad wire.
As for diagnosing the ignition system, I wouldn't be much of a help. There are better sources to talk to locally that know the mechanics better than i do. I'd recommend contacting JvilleVr4. He'll usually answers pm's, he is still occasionally posting here so i know he's around. He tends to talk on florida3s more often than 3si. If i needed a mechanic for the 3si locally, thats who I'd call to get suggestions.
If you need to take it to a shop to fix it for you, a shop that i'd recommend for electricals and normal tuning is Viking Auto Air: located on Sunbeam road, fairly close to the post office. They had plenty of practice keeping my own stealth on the road for 9 years so I know they can do most normal stuff. They are honest, won't rip you off, and the owner will make suggestions to take it elsewhere if he thinks its cheaper. I've always found the owners dutch sounding accent to be fun to listen to as he explains the inner workings of an alternator. Viking isn't a 3S shop though, nor an import specializer, they are just competent mechanics who've been around a long time, and get alot of word of mouth advertising from prior customers.
What part of Jax are you at? I'm in the Mandarin area.
Lord Warlock
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91 Stealth TT Stillen Intake, Stillen DP, DN Y Pipe, HKS EVC IV, GReddy BOV, Burlwood Dash kit, New Katzkins, OEM Short Block, RPS Max Street Clutch, Denso 310lph fuel pump, 13G Turbos, Borla exhaust, 550 DR Injectors, HKS SAFC, 2 gauge pod CF A/F gauge, autometer boost gauge. Custom vented blisters, New Valves, rebuilt heads, timing belt, new bearings and pistons. 35k invested.
Other cars: 1969 charger R/T SE, 04 SVT cobra
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jax ppl read please!
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