Chicago Crew Thread #2

[GTO3000Guy]

Brian I forgot to give you congrats on the job. So congratulations.

[EVILTWIN]

no prob Andy, hard to remember things sometimes, especially when we are drinking...and thats pretty much what we are doing when I see you.

Thanks alot!

Now I hope you wrapped my 1997... red..., i mean, present nicely

[sluggo]

Hey guys (and Jackie and Sanjay too),

May I ask your opinion/advice on a "new" engine?

My engine is fine and all, but my last Blackstone Labs oil analysis showed increased lead content in the oil, and that could mean bearings are going. I'll send in another sample for analysis perhaps this weekend, as I have put 4,000 miles on this new oil.

If it is bad bearings, do you replace all of them? Is it cost effective to get a new engine? What does an engine cost? I don't know. I have 113,000 miles on my baby, and she's been loyal.

I grew up with simple Mopar 225s, 318s, and 360s...even a Chevy 350 or three. Back in the day, you could swap engines fairly easily. Heck, I got a picture of me and two buddies in the engine bay (with engine in!) of my first car, a Plymouth Satellite Police special that I bought for $1 at a police auction- they were practically giving them away.

I have read posts of guys with spun bearings who spend over $1,000 to fix things. I have also read posts from guys like Maddog who swap bearings in their sleep with plastic sporks stolen from the KFC condiment table.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

-Pete

[Cameron]

Originally Posted by sluggo

Hey guys (and Jackie and Sanjay too),

May I ask your opinion/advice on a "new" engine?

My engine is fine and all, but my last Blackstone Labs oil analysis showed increased lead content in the oil, and that could mean bearings are going. I'll send in another sample for analysis perhaps this weekend, as I have put 4,000 miles on this new oil.

If it is bad bearings, do you replace all of them? Is it cost effective to get a new engine? What does an engine cost? I don't know. I have 113,000 miles on my baby, and she's been loyal.

I grew up with simple Mopar 225s, 318s, and 360s...even a Chevy 350 or three. Back in the day, you could swap engines fairly easily. Heck, I got a picture of me and two buddies in the engine bay (with engine in!) of my first car, a Plymouth Satellite Police special that I bought for $1 at a police auction- they were practically giving them away.

I have read posts of guys with spun bearings who spend over $1,000 to fix things. I have also read posts from guys like Maddog who swap bearings in their sleep with plastic sporks stolen from the KFC condiment table.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

-Pete

If you have done engine swaps in the past, pulling these motors is no biggie. If one of your bearings is bad, yes, replace them all. How much it cost depends on how much of the work you do. And no, you don’t need a new motor. If you do pull your motor, just give it a bit of a how’s your father and you should be fine for another 100k

That’s just my 2 cents anyway.

Oh, and my first car was a 67 Buick Special so I know what you mean. There was about 4 feet from the front bumper to the fan.

[sluggo]

Originally Posted by Cameron

Oh, and my first car was a 67 Buick Special so I know what you mean. There was about 4 feet from the front bumper to the fan.

Those were the days! Thanks for the info...

I'll drive normally (like a granny) and send in that next oil sample for a look-see. If the bearings are going, it will be executive decision time.

What I remember most about those old cars with all that empty space in the engine compartment:

1) Airflow around the engine was great
2) If you ran over a puddle of water, your engine would die within 5 seconds (mostly Fords) because the water would kick up into the engine compartment, flooding it.
3) If you dropped a tool or nut, it really would hit the ground 1/4 second later.
4) The harmless squirrel and the friendly rabbit would hang out with the evil gopher in that engine area during thunderstorms.

-Pete

[TsunamiStealth]

Sanjay,

Looks like the ECU is fried, popped it in and car doesn't even want to idle. Anyone know where I can get a 91 US spec ECU?

[B00STYLE]

Originally Posted by TsunamiStealth

Sanjay,

Looks like the ECU is fried, popped it in and car doesn't even want to idle. Anyone know where I can get a 91 US spec ECU?

I'd try looking online for junkyards nationwide. They have search engines that submit your query to tons of junkyards and they respond to you within 24 hours. That's how I got my sideskirt when I had my NA.

[ccrunner84]

What kind of ECU are you looking for? If its an NA ecu I've got a spare and happen to live in Kenosha.

I've also just completed a TT swap, would anyone be interested in helping tune this thing? Im running the NA computer w/ and SAFC2, I've also got an 8:1 engine.. I've been watching my o2 voltage with TMO and at -3% correction im cycling about .92 ~ .94..

Another problem im having is getting the damn thing to idle correctly, I've replaced the TPS and IAC and still it wants to idle very low and want to die, and usually does when you rev it a tad and let the idle fall. I've set the TPS using the continuity technique on stealth316.com however im not sure if you can set the IAC really.

If anyone has some suggestions and might be interested in taking a drive I'd appreciate it!

Thanks,

-Nick

[stevep]

Originally Posted by TsunamiStealth

Looks like the ECU is fried, popped it in and car doesn't even want to idle. Anyone know where I can get a 91 US spec ECU?

If the CPU chip isn't bubbled I can most likely fix it.

Steve

[stevep]

Originally Posted by ccrunner84

I'm not sure if you can set the IAC really.

You don't reallt set the ISC/IAC. What you do is ground the timing adjust connector and pin 10 on the DLC to block the ISC in it's default position and adjust the BISS.

Steve