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#11 (permalink) |
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Average poster
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Thanks for the info. The mechanic thinks it's the TCU that is causing the problems. He also thinks it is the reason why my last transmission blew. It just doesn't seem very logical, as the symptoms I got with this used tranny he installed (slipping going into 1st, and slipping going into 4th and while going up hill, really hard downshifting while at a steady speed, and a squeeling sound while accelerating) are different from the problems with my old tranny (absolutely NONE until, without any warning, the differential went....no squeeling, no slipping, no hard downshifting) Do these symptoms sound like a TCU problem? I'm thinking he's just pissed that he found a crappy transmission and guarenteed his labor and now has to find another one and install it again for free. If that's the case I'm going to just go for a brand new tranny like I should have done in the first place (if he hadn't quoted me for $3500 for a new one) Wish I could have just had the car towed to my house and then had a local member help me install a new tranny so I could save some money on labor...But at the time I didn't know what the crap I was supposed to do.
Also, I had him install a tranny cooler while he was at it, but I think he did a half assed job on it. After driving around for 1/2 hour should the lines going to and from the cooler be cold? Also, should the cooler be cold? I'm wondering if he flushed my stock cooler (on the radiator) when he installed this tranny, because when I checked the tranny fluid after the problems started it looked way too high. I'm kind of hoping that this tranny is crap, that way he will have to replace it and I can get a brand new one this time around for nearly the same price he charged me for a used one. Thanks BigTyla for directing me to that site.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Resident rocket scientist
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Your symptoms do not sound like a TCU problem. It only controls shift logic; it would not cause the squealing and grinding you describe.
The lines going to and from the cooler should not be cold. The ones going to the cooler should be hot and the ones coming from the cooler should not be as hot (obviously) but still warm after a bit of driving. If he didn't flush your radiator before installing the lines, he made a big boo-boo.
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![]() 1993 3000GT FWD ATX TT - mods coming<---------------->2009 Honda Fit - 40 mpg ftw Topline Engineering ground wire kit Nov/Dec ground wire GB!!! |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Average poster
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Okay so transmission #3 is now in...Runs fine and everything....Except, when I put it in reverse sometimes the RPM drops down to like 500 and sometimes it stalls...If I put it in reverse and the RPM doesn't drop, when I rev the engine, the RPM will drop down to 400-500 and sometimes stall. Also, when the RPM drops down to 400-500RPM the oil light flashes on until the RPM goes back up. The car idles in park at around 700-750....in reverse sometimes at 700 unless it drops down, then it either stalls or goes back up and idles at 700...neutral idles at around 750...drive idles at around 700.....Any idea what is up with my reverse?
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Average poster
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Quote:
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#16 (permalink) |
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Average poster
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I bet you guys can't guess what happened to me today with tranny #3....Yeah, no reverse, no over drive.
So yeah, I've decided that this mechanic blows at finding a good used transmission, and I am going this route: http://trademotion.com/partlocator/i...94&catalogid=1 Anybody who has dealt with them, please give me as much information about your experience as possible. I'm at the point where I'm desperate to get my car back to the way it was when I bought it. I've been home from school for a month and a half and my car has been in the shop more than it's been in my driveway. I just need to know that my car is fine and not have to worry when I drive it back to Colorado in August...ya know? Help would be very very appreciated. |
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