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New head unit + stock amp, CD changer, steering wheel controls?

6K views 27 replies 8 participants last post by  EDSONWM 
#1 ·
I'm sure this has been asked before but I'm hoping someone will make it easy and lay it out for me here.

I only want to replace the head unit and keep the steering wheel controls, stock amp, and CD changer. How much of a challenge is this? I replaced all 6 speakers some time ago.

I'm OK at reading schematics and using a soldering iron. I've modified every other system on my car, and now finally looking at modernizing the look of the audio.

Thanks,

Steve
 
#2 ·
well, i cannot tell you how it was done, but my stereo shop got the steering wheel controls working with my pioneer unit. the pioneer was in the car when I bought it, the previous owner said he didn't know how to get it to work with the steering wheel - so it can be done. sorry that's not of much help.
 
#3 ·
I am unsure about the cd changer staying, that could be your bottle neck for a new HU. most of the HUs I've installed myself that are newer and more expensive have options for wheel remote controls (which you have to buy separately). I would imagine that you could get the connector for it and then splice into it with the stock controls. When I removed mine for an aftermarket wheel, I noticed it was a fairly simple circuit board that controlled everything. a wiring schematic of that circuit would be helpful, which I unfortunately do not have.

the cd changer, (correct me if I am wrong here) has it's own plug into the stock HU that allows it to function in junction with the HU controls. most aftermarket HUs do not have this same plug type to allow for control. I do not know enough about the cd changer itself, but from my guess it is not going to carry over. the only thing i could think of would be a cd changer that uses an AUX or RCA output for sound and route it directly to the HU or to the amp. (i also have aftermarket amps and not stock so do not know if this is even possible.)

so it may still be possible, but I do think the headache may not be worth it. best of luck finding the answer for this.
 
#4 ·
When you replace the head unit you can keep the amplifier if equipped. Most likely you will lose the CD changer which is not a big deal if you get iPod / USB support on the new head unit. There is a Metra harness with RCA jacks and DIN plug that makes this plug and play

For steering wheel controls you need to remap the functions using a Metra Axxess ASCW-1 or PAC-Audio SWI-RC which I think is the latest. Our cars use pulse width modulation so you need a device that reads the pulses generated by the keys and sends commands that are recognized by your new head unit. These newer models need very little setup and there is just one wire to interface at the radio connectors.
 
#5 ·
super easy if you buy the right adapters...

Steering wheel controls need something like Just make sure it pairs with your HU. lso do a search, there's 3 or 4 versions and not all of them work with our cars.

New HU/Radio to stock amp needs:
Amp Integration Harness This plugs into the RCA out on the new HU and converts into a Din plug for the Amp.

CD changer should plug right into a the HU if it can control an external changer.. if it doesn't control an external changer you won't be able to get it to work. But with the new HUs that play MP3 cds, you can fit 5-6 normal cds onto 1 very easily so the CD changer isn't really needed anymore.
 
#6 ·
I just installed a Eonon G2104 HU, oem Mitsu Amp, I have a 3rd Gen Eclipse Steering Wheel and the oem audio buttons programmed in (no adapter needed) they're resistive type. my original wheel used canbus type and would've needed a adapter.
 
#7 ·
Thanks guys, for all of the replies. It's been very informative.

I was always happy with the stock unit until I replaced my GF's dead HU with aftermarket and all the latest gadgets. Now I want one. Even though I prefer to listen to the throaty sing of 3500 rpm and up. :D
 
#13 · (Edited)
Is the motor-driven antenna activated when the blue amp turn-on wire is connected? I see the blue wire from pin 5 F-31 (motor ant control unit), but how to access it from the console area? Do I need 1 connection each to drive the Ant. and to turn on the amp?

I think I see it now...it's the pink wire Pin 3 of D-47. Correct?
But if that's the case then the amp turn-on is Pin 10 D-47?

Brain fart! Too many wires. I think I have it. If I didn't have a thing about deleting posts, I'd delete this one.
 
#14 ·
If your Pioneer DD supports it I would advise connecting the antenna motor unit control to an external relay control wire. I have this setup in my Kenwood.

The way it works in the Kenwood is the antenna mast is not raised until you select it from the Ext switch menu. In this way you can listen to Pandora or iTunes or other sources that don't use the antenna and just put up the antenna for HD radio.

One other suggestion - some DD units use the antenna for traffic detection so you might want to check if you get traffic with and without the antenna mast up.
 
#15 · (Edited)
I'll check it out. I prefer the antenna down. In the meantime, I got the system working. The steering wheel controls work too. Yea! But my OCD has to forget about the spiderweb of wires behind the HU.

edit: No external control on this unit. But a fellow member said he installed a switch to control the ant manually. This gives me an idea to use my (now unused) active exhaust control rocker to accomplish this task. Does this sound feasible? I need to look more closely into that.

edit edit: Looks like pin 6 on D-38 ought to do it. :)
 
#16 ·
The SWC-RC works great. I actually have better functionality from my steering wheel controls now that I can program the buttons best suited for me.

I connected the power ant lead to the active exhaust switch pin-6. It works, but opposite from what I anticipated. The antenna is up in the sport mode and down in tour. I was hoping the antenna would extend in tour mode to remind me the antenna is in the up position. (with the light) I'm just happy to have control of the ant while utilizing an existing stock panel switch.

And now that I have the Pioneer communicating with my Iphone as advertised (firmware upgrade), I couldn't be happier with it.

Oh...and the addition of the 2 pulse E-brake override chip of course. :) Now if I can keep myself from watching porn while driving...
 
#21 ·
Well I've tried. Sorry to disappoint but I just can't seem to figure out how to get this relay working.

With the "tour" light on, no B+ from pin 6, antenna is down. With "tour" light off, B+ from pin 6, antenna goes up.

I can't get a relay to work correctly from pin 6. The relay will trip, but only if I connect/disconnect relay 85. If I flip the switch, no relay click. the "tour" light will dim but not extinguish completely (as it does stock) with relay connected. Not sure what that means.
 
#22 ·
Bringing this one back, 'cause i'm stumped.
I'm trying to get my steering wheel controls to work with my new Alpine HU. I got the SWI-RC like you do Steve, but I cant get it programmed. I've checked the wiring 10 times over, even removed and completely reinstalled it. I've tried programming it at least 20 times over. I get to the setting of the buttons, and after I program (skip) the last button (I've tried not skipping it too), the LED flashes 4 times slowly, then starts flashing rapidly and wont stop. Even if I turn off the key and turn it back on, it immediately returns to the flashing rapidly state. I have to completely reset it.
I'm using the yellow wire on the SWI, power is tapped into the radio harness, ground is solid, also shared with the HU, no loops cut, and selector switch is on 1 for Alpine.
Should I be programming it without it plugged into the HU? that seems to be what the instructions indicate...but I've tried both.
The LED does cycle during programming so I know it's getting a good signal.
This is on my 99 if it makes a difference.
 
#25 ·
oh...your first post says it flashes 4 times slowly. In that case maybe try using a different radio code? IDK just throwing ideas out there...

Not trying to insult your intelligence, but that yellow wire is connected to the car's yellow/white. Right?
 
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